Mr. Pickles

What he said. /\ He's also provided instructions somewhere around on how to rewire the headlights with a relay to make them much brighter. A search may be in order to find them. I threw in a pair of eBay cheapo's that were like 80watts or so a couple years ago, and promptly melted not only a bit of wiring, but the actual plug harness that plugs into the back of the bulbs. Luckily, I found aftermarket replacements that even had heavier gauge wire, but I also went back to lower power bulbs as well. Higher wattage bulbs + stock wiring= BAD NEWS.

Definately check the fuses. I can't remember the name of it, but there is 1 fuse that powers both the dash and running lights, but the headlight will keep working.

Ditto Precise on checking your brake fluid. Also do a visual on your pads or have them checked out for excessive wear, as most big shops will do so for free. How are the power locks being faulty? Not working at all, locking then unlocking immediately, or something else? It would probably be better to solve the problem than bypass it then end up risking a new problem. Ditto again on the rear glass switch. Check all your fuses, just in case. Do you have a repair manual (Chilton, etc.)? They're not perfect by far, but can help track down this stuff. Heater- sorry, mine is manual. But I'll ditto the Auto suggestion. By the way, El P's profile says 93 SE.

Don't worry, Precise has nothing better to do, really. I just bought the LockRight here although I'm still waiting on shipment, so I can't vouch yet. Still, the price is decent from others I've seen. So that might be an option for a source. I've also got a 94 SE with open diff. I'll post up once I have the thing safe and sound.

Busted! Sorry man, I had to...

Hey Filthy, is that a Skyline? Sorry, we get watered down isht here as you know. Its irritating that they're rebadging the current (and new to the US) Skylines as Infinitis here in the states, because American's can't comprehend HiPo Nissan= $$$. From what I've heard, its basically a reworked G35/350Z with gonzo power and price to match. But put an Infiniti badge on a car, you think comfort, etc. but not necessarily sport. Grrr...

I bet getting rear ended by a Suburban would be fun. The first thing the bumper would hit would be seat metal, then the seat, then you.

I think 88 has one of those. :X

Tell him they only come in 20's or larger.

Ok, just reset and did a test drive out to the highway for a speed fun, and all is well, no errors. Wish me luck!

So I just replaced the dash fuse that blew, causing the speedo, tach, odometer, most everything but the fuel gauge to die. Then I went around the block, and got a check engine light every time I hit the gas. Pulled the code: 14, Vehicle Speed Sensor. Anybody have a trick for this? The Chilton manual is vague to say the least, but hints that it is in the cluster at the speedo. No idea. Napa lists replacements from roughly the $85-115 range. Has anybody played with this before/have any insight? The search function was pretty useless (or I've run out of patience), pulling up every "speed" or "sensor" related topic. In the meantime, I'm off to reset the ecu and then see what happens.

So K.I.S.S. strikes again. After tracing through wiring diagrams, I noticed a Y/R wire tying into most everything affected. K, so maybe that's it, but I should go back and check all the fuses and stuff again. First one I grab is Meter. Duh. Its blown. Continue with the rest, then replace that one, and everything works. Jack@$$!!! *kicks self in the groin repeatedly* I must have missed it the first time through while trying to rule out the alternator. Buuut... then I go for a test drive, and get a check engine light, which leads me to the next thread I'm about to post. :furious:

I've got the champagne (tan/gold) like Mr. Jim's.

Yep, doesn't appear to be the voltage reg issue then. The gas gauge is working, but the the temp, speedo, odometer, & tach are dead, as is the blower. The blower motor has me confused, as it seems to be an independent issue apart from the cluster. Also, you no longer need to engage the clutch to start it up. Strange. At least they're predicting snow tomorrow, meaning I'll get to drive it anyways.

Sorry, no go but thanks.

I've got mine along the passenger side. Left just enough room to lower the seats, and my box is taller rather than longer, and fits 2 10" subs front to back. I'd recommend as tall a box as you can handle in the cargo area so that you don't lose floor area . Its a balancing act, just keep your center of gravity low (speakers low) if you do any wheeling. I just replaced mounting screws that I managed to rip loose.

I ditto Vsicks. Most likely worn out part are the issue. A stabilizer may help, like it did for me for a bit, but you'd be best off getting whatever is worn out replaced now before things get worse. As for the stock replacement steering stabilizer (Monroe, etc.) it depends on if you have the stock bracket to the frame. If you have it, you can buy a replacement stabilizer and for like $25-30 and install it in maybe 15 min or less. If you don't have the bracket, either find one on a junkyard Pathfinder or Hardbody pickup, or you can buy it from the dealer, where I think they wanted like $25. I managed to get a stock bracket and bolt from a Hardbody along with the stock stabilizer for $15. If you're going for the Rancho kit, disregard all that and go for it.

Thanks guys. On 2nd review, I think the alternator is fine. After running with and without the battery connected, I ran it for a while around the neighborhood, and all was fine. We again checked voltage while the engine was off and running, and all was well- 12.5 off on a cold morning, and 14.3 while running. Then we followed the Ms.' sister and brother in law most of the way home with no issues, covering 125 mile in about 2 hours with a stop near the end, and no issues. Ran fine all the way at about 75-80mph I guess. But here's an update: No speedo, odometer or engine temp gauge, along with said tach, heater blower, and the battery light. I'm leaning toward the voltage regulator, or whatever that dash cluster issue was. Does that sound like a cause? Anyways, to compound things, while I was out in the 30-something degree rain figuring this out last night, I was already coming down with a cold. So depending on how I feel, I'm gonna run up to Auto Zone after the Seahawks game and see if they can run their tester on the alternator just in case. As usual, keep it coming, and thanks.

Code 55, all is good.

We just ran a tester on at the battery. 12.8 volts when off, 14.3 when started and running. Do you think that could still be an alternator problem?

Does this sound familiar. Been running just fine, drove 125 miles yesterday and around town today, then jumped in for the 125 drive home and there is a red Battery idiot light. The battery is maybe 2 months old, and she fires up fine. I ran it with the battery disconnected for a bit with the lights on to test the alternator, and it kept going just fine. Headlights come on, as do the roof rack lights, domes, stereo and amps, although the 100 watt driving lights didn't want to come on a few times. What I don't have is a functioning heater blower, and the tach is dead. Pulled the codes and got a 55. Anybody know/remember what this is? Alternator? I'm gonna be searching around.

What he said /\. That's amazingly disrespectful of the guy. Maybe you should lift you truck so its too high for anybody else to do that.

Ok, you totally read that wrong, sorry I was vague. I didn't mean they're passing off a $10 piece of junk for $45 because of the sticker. My Rancho's are far superior to the stock ones, and are beefier than most direct replacement types. I was aiming the comment "aftermarket" ones at the off road brands- Rancho, Pro Comp, Trailmaster, etc. etc. But sure, like anything usually, you get what you pay for.

Please do. I bet a while down the road I'll get suckered into a SAS, mostly by my own suckering. Must research more now! Until then, I'm gonna try wearing out my IFS again and hoping B's Path finds a path once again.

Supercharged small block, nitrous, etc? In the real work, what he said ? /\ Get her tuned good, breathing and farting good, rolling good, reduce drag due to roof racks, lift, etc., keep a good tire pressure, and on and on. If its a stock truck, and everything else is in order, it is what it is. Then there is the question of if you're lifted, have larger tires, etc. If so, you may want to look into swapping the gears, but that is expensive.