Mr. Pickles

I do believe the guy said he was considering a Pilot, not a Passport. Big difference. LOL Sounds like the guy when you were kids who always claimed to get the action, but probably never made it to first base.

MT with 152K miles now, and I had to replace the clutch at about 143K or so I think. Not too bad for a daily driven truck, often in traffic, and also wheeled with holding and starting on hills and such. I feel sorry for you auto guys. I can't imagine driving one of these beastly things with a dumbed down autotragic. :o

Congrats on the swap finally! And about the hopeful solution to the issues. Let me know when we can go out and break that thin in properly!

What GrimGreg said for me too- lift and support truck on jack stands, unbolt shocks and panhard, remove tires for extra drop (I also unbolted the little guides for the brake lines and watched them carefully to allow a bit more extension), then drop the axle. Easy removal and install, no spring compressors, no worries.

The concensus from most would probably say that best bang for the buck would be intake, exhaust, and headers (essentially separate from exhaust). K&N filters, Flowmaster and Magnaflow, etc. mufflers and exhaust, Thorley and Pacesetter headers, various aftermarket and and custom intake setups, etc. Summitracing.com and eBay can be excellent sources for all of the above.

Sorry man, I'll be busy at home remodeling my bathroom. I did mine all on my own along with questions posted here, so post up and I'll also check in to see if you run into issues. It really is pretty straight forward unless you run into broken/rusted/etc. issues. Its just kinda time consuming. Good luck!

On a similar note, does anybody with a rear locker experience any walk or wobble at speed while shifting. In particular, it seems to be getting stonger lately, when I shift from say 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th on a gentle corner. The rear really tries to step out for a split second. Its of course always done this, but it seems to be more now. Time for some investigation of the same bushings, I do think. Poly-time!

If you don't have a tap and die set, and have a Harbor Freight around, you can get a set for around $10 or so. Very handy for sure. I've had to tap out one of mine as well.

Nice. That should discourage any punks with sticky fingers that come along and want to take them.

Yeah, auto and 2.2 VTEC. I personally would rather have the manual, but not her, so be it. It still gets along fine if you put your foot into it, and it'll pull in the 30's mpg on the highway. The V6 would be fun, although I'm not positive if you can get a manual, and I've heard of a lot of issues with the auto with the V6 (but not with the 4cyl). Anyways, all in all, its an Accord with fancier trim, and a good little car.

LOL you guys crack me up. Granted, I've got more $$$ into repairs and mods to my Pathy than most anybody that doesn't have a SAS. But still, what's a major repair every few years, or a few hundred in maintenance and repair each year. It beats a few hundred in payments EVERY MONTH any day in my book. Sure, you're paying into an old vehicle, but no matter the vehicle, you will never come out ahead (short of a Ferrari or a collectible). Its just the nature of the beast. My previous Nissan truck ran like a top at 255K miles when I sold it for good cash, and I still kinda cringe thinking I should have kept it. You've got plenty of miles to cover still. BTW, yes, I've reached an edge a few times. Then I back away, gather my senses, and plan for a new toy...

I was about to post that you should look for a grommet on the PS firewall, then I realized the 98 year... If you're still in the dark, don't be afraid, its just metal. Find a spot in the foot well or firewall that looks clear and safe on both sides, hopefully down by your feet if you can and out of the way (i.e. no lines or wires, etc.). Then start slow and low and drill through. Once you're sure its ok, go for it. Treat the bare metal, and throw in a rubber grommet over the rough hole for piece of mind. Finally, run wire and you're golden.

2-tone with bedliner below? That could be sweet really, pretty indestructible. Yeah, you've gotta roll the black rock crawlers or similar. On that note, anybody want to buy my polished aluminum rims? sly

If you end up with problems or no time to do it, check around for a shop. I had my hitch installed at a local place (Tork Lift in Kent, WA) and they charged something like $30-40 to do the wiring, wire/plug/labor included. Good enough for me not to monkey with it.

And the reports I've read say the Seattle metro area is the #1 overpriced place to live (cost of living vs. wages) in the country. :eek: We just plain don't have high enough wages, on average, to keep up considering housing costs here are nipping at the heels of Cali. Yet Bill Gates and friends keep stacking up their cash. But back to the lift, if you could really get it for $600-800 or so, that's really not that bad. I bought in segments, cutting corners, and that's on the low end of the price range all together with UCA's, T bars, shocks, bushings, and JGC springs, etc. But yeah, the auction sounds kinda fishy to me too.

I believe he used white spray-on appliance paint. I've used it to recondition a range hood and old fridge, and the stuff was solid, no scratching or scrapes, and very easy to clean. If that's not what he used, that still might be an option. You can pick it up in several colors at Home Depot, etc. On second thought, maybe it was an engine block/high temp paint.

Maybe an ARB from a previous owner? If so, you'd be extremely lucky.

Man, that sucks. If that's all the damage, you should be able to repair/replace for pretty cheap really. As far as damage, I had pretty much identical in a wreck, and it was repaired through insurance for like $3500. If anything, get it back cheap and part the old girl. Good choice on a possible replacement. We've got a 97 CL as the "other car." The Ms. drives it every day, and I drive it often, and its a sweet little car. Before the Pathy, I had a wicked Prelude, but the CL satisfies fine day to day with a good ride and great mileage.

Looking good. Wanna build mine?

I've got the Lock Right too, and its grrrrrrrreat. Just be easy on the gas around tighter corners at lower speeds (say, under 25mph or so) or it will engage and the truck will buck a bit. No biggie. But it is on all the time, and can get squirrelly on ice and snow, although I've driven in it and it just takes a bit more delicate touch and care. Get in some sloppy stuff though, and its night and day vs. open diff. No front at this time, but I hear the only options are the ARB or to put in and LSD instead from a 300Z car (right?).

Doesn't sound like the best idea to me either. Whether there is a special product, or they just used expanding foam, who knows. But you'll end up trapping moisture and whatever rust is in there, and if anything you might speed up the process.

I'm curious where you managed to come up with costs of $10K for SAS and $5K for a built IFS. That's insanely high, to say the least.

Looks like fun. Where is Skamania? Is that the area east of Vancouver? I'm looking forward to your Crown Royal write up... Step 1- Open Crown, drink. Step 2- Insert camera. Step 3- Hide camera to avoid pics of your drunk ass staggering about. Step 4- Enjoy! -alcohol-

What's with us guys and landscaping lately?! Feels like that seen out of Old School. "We're going to the Home Depot..." Here's my loaded beast That link shows you 40 bags of river rock. Didn't see an approx weight on the bags, but they were NOT light. Oh, and that compression in the back is after the JGC springs and the added height of a 3" body lift. As long as you find nothing wrong, I'd agree that you're A-Okay.

Yes, and if possible, tell them what you want, as opposed to "what can you do for me?" Having a desired goal seems to help vs. "please rape me, I have no clue." What do the R50 guys have to say for the desired exhaust size?