xterra

Just went out to the spare parts container to get some pics. First one is location of the two bulbs - it's on the top of the unit, hidden under a small cover. Just pry up the cover and you'll see the two bulb bases. Here are pics of the bulbs. I couldn't get the bulbs out of the bases - I think they're 1 piece - which is why I said they were weird. You may be able to solder in the ones that MY1PATH mentioned.

Slartibartfast is right - there are two bulbs that just seat with a 1/2 turn. One has a black base and one a grey base, but otherwise appear to be the same. (I had to replace mine last year.) But a little warning: they're very strange bulbs. Local dealer said they couldn't order them, but I got lucky and pulled a few from the JY that worked.

Stock running boards mounted with a 2-piece bracket at the front that wrapped around the frame, were bolted together, and then bolted to bracket on the tubes. Rear mounted with a backing plate that went inside the frame rail and was bolted brackets. AFAIK, the frames are the same on SE & XE, so no drilling should be required if you have those mounting brackets.

Take a look at the PDFs in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19755-fix-your-keyless-entry/?p=339766 It's labeled for 1990 models, but it should be similar for 87-89. (For the 90s, it's not actually keyless entry. It's really just for the security system that had the on/off switch on the dash.) Best of luck.

Out of pure curiosity, I pulled up the OME USA catalog: http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/OME_Guide_current.pdf On page 70 it says "Vehicles with ABS will require ABS Bracket Kit SMP638" Hope that helps.

If you've got a power sunroof, it's aftermarket and not OEM. WD21s (1987-1995) only had a manual sunroof from the factory, so there won't be anything in the FSM. Sorry.

Got the aftermarket auto-headlights working again... Photocell cable somehow got loose. Also took out the digital volt-meter I'd installed and replaced it with dual USB outlets.

Outside parts are the same, internal parts are similar. 93-95 with remote lock/unlock have magnets on the inside, but they'll still work. The small plastic pieces are going to be your biggest issue, since they get brittle over the years. Pretty much everything you need to know about the door handle/lock/striker mechanism are in the video from this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35496-understanding-door-lock-mechanism-wd21-nissan-pathfinder/?do=findComment&comment=664823 This thread has more information about the white and yellow plastic pieces: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23329-how-to-replace-the-plastic-snap-connectors-in-your-door-locks/?do=findComment&comment=418669 I replaced those pieces when I replaced my door lock cylinders last year, mostly so I wouldn't need to mess with them again for a really long time.

Great blast from the past. And it only goes to reinforce what every WD21 owner already knows.

For the hatch, I'd recommend StrongArm part number 4758. For the glass, it's StrongArm 4815 (LH) and 4816 (RH). They're available through Amazon and eBay. Since you're in CH, I'm not sure if those are options. But now you've got the part numbers - which is often half of the battle.

Cleaned up the tire carrier. Before: After:

WD21 fog lights were not factory installed, but were either done in the port or at the dealer - so there may be some variation in the length of wires that were left, location of the relay, etc. But the relay from the switch should be installed on the RH firewall in the engine bay. Since I'm too lazy to go out to the garage and take a pic, I found one from a post by Slartibartfast that shows where it's mounted (and conveniently marked FOGS) - just ignore his hand! The relay has two "87" connections on it, one going to each of the fog lights. I'd start my troubleshooting there. Unplug the connection at the bottom and check continuity to the light. If you have continuity, then it's a good bet you need to replace the relay. If no continuity, then check the disconnect in the cabling that runs behind the bumper. If it's disconnected, Yahtzee! If not, then you probably have a break in the wiring inside the loom somewhere. (Oh, and don't forget to check the ground wire, too.) Hopefully one of those will put you on the right track

WD21's didn't come with headlight relays. Full voltage went through the switch. There are instructions for how to clean the contacts here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22557-a-headlight-problem/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bswitch&do=findComment&comment=641236 A replacement switch should be ~$55-60 from the local dealer (YMMV) - or you can ping Alkorahil via PM to get his price. Instructions for installing the relay mod for the headlights (plus good info on WD21 headlights in general) is here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32337-headlight-repairinfo/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bswitch

Steven- I did a complete audio upgrade. New head unit: Pioneer MVH-X560BT. It doesn't have cassette or CD, just USB and AUX inputs. Regardless of the source (AM/FM, AUX, or USB), it always uses the amp. New amp: Clarion XC1410. It has both pre-amp and line-level inputs, but I used the pre-amp with some good quality RCA cables. New speakers: Rockford Fosgate P165 (fronts) and P1694 (rears). Huge difference. You'll have to check what works in your '95 since it's got two extra doors. Wiring my new harness took a bit, too. I had to splice the adapter harness I got with the head unit so that power went to the head unit, amp signalling went from the head unit to the amp, and then the speaker outputs went from the amp back to the factory harness. (As long as you draw it all out first, it's a simpler process) I made the loop-backs mentioned above so that I could leave the factory wiring harness in-tact, but that was my preference. I know that some people would have replaced the wiring to all of the speakers, but our trucks generate enough road noise that I don't think it makes any difference. If I remember correctly, it took a couple hours to plan everything out, 30 minutes to remove all the old stuff, 15 minutes to solder the new adapter harness and loop back, and then a 2-3 hours to install everything.

Anything aftermarket is going to need mods - even if just bypassing the amps. You might try posting in the "wanted" section to see if someone has a factory unit. I sacrificed the factory amp so that I could solder up the loop-back from the instructions I linked to before. My 1990 only had the 4-speaker setup, so just one amp behind the center console. I upgraded to a small 4-channel amp (installed where the original one was) and a digital media receiver (USB only - no CD or cassette mechanism). I ran the USB connection under the armrest and have an iPod I leave in the truck. It holds enough music to drive from Nashville to Orlando and back with no repeats.

Regarding the stereo, there are 2 amps in the 8 speaker unit. The rear speaker amp is behind the center console, and the front speaker amp is in the back behind a trim panel. Wiring information can be found here: http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6726/kw/1995%20pathfinder If you want to leave the stock wiring, you can build amp bypass plugs. Instructions are here (http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-build-an-amp-by-pass-delete-harness-t335534.html) with a pic below

Pretty damned close - they called it a 30 year knee...

Took it to get emissions tested. Passed without any issues. It was the first time in nearly 2 weeks that I've driven it. The wife had her OEM knee replaced with an upgraded aftermarket version and isn't cleared to drive yet, so I've been using her car since it gets better mileage.

Resurrecting this zombie thread, mostly because I think it will be fun to know where currently active members are within the age ranges. Sad to say, but I'm in the second highest age range...

The rear-speaker amp is mounted behind the radio and lower trim panel. It has a 7.5amp fuse that you should check first. If it's shot, it can be bypassed. Lots more information in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35837-how-to-bypass-the-factory-amps-step-by-step/

I had that last year. I thought it was the panel dimmer, but it ended up being the lights/signals/cruise multi switch. There are instructions on here somewhere on how to clean the contacts, but ended up replacing it with NOS from Nissan since the cruise wasn't working either.

This comes up a few times a year. I actually keep this information in Evernote so that it will be easily available if I ever have to use it. There's more information in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27747-anyone-know-a-way-to-fix-seatbelts-so-they-retract/?hl=seatbelt&do=findComment&comment=519410 Per Alkorahil, our resident Nissan Parts Guru: All seat belts from Nissan after 1989 have a lifetime limited transferable warranty against defects on the pretensioners and buckle. (it does not cover them not working after a collision, your dog eating them or cutting them with scissors, etc). This warranty is mentioned in the back of the owners manual in the last section. Many service advisors at a dealership will not know or be aware that it is covered going back that far. Do lot let them tell you it is not covered, sometimes you have to stand your ground. Make them punch your VIN in the computer system or call their warranty administrator. If they still give you flack call Nissan Consumer Relations at 1-800-NISSAN1 The dealer will also probably not stock this part. It will take them on average 2-3 days to order the part and get it from the warehouse. I have had mine done twice under the warranty (on two different vehicles) Both times the kits replaced the pretensioners and the buckles. In short, it is free parts and labor. If your local dealer is giving you problems on seat belt replacement under warranty give them this information including the Op Codes, this is straight from Nissan. WARRANTY COVERAGE PLAN SB Seat Belts - Useful life of the vehicle for 1989-2002 vehicles, 10 years for 2003 up vehicles. OpCode VK22AA Replace Front Seat Belt Tounge Assembly - One side OpCode VK213AA Replace Front Seat Belt Tounge Assembly - Both Sides If you take your vehicle to get seat belts done, and they say it is not covered, tell your Service Advisor to contact their Warranty Administrator and give this information, if they do not cooperate call 1-800-NISSAN1.

Pictures from the HMBL install posted in my build thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38777-xterras-1990-2-door-wd21-slow-build/?p=760671

Exactly what I ended up with. I ran the wiring down the LH side and used Posi-Taps to connect into the factory harness. I couldn't find one from a 93-95 WD that was in decent shape, so I originally tried using the 9-bulb HMBL from an R50 and 3M moulding adhesive to hold it to the glass, it didn't hold very well. I ended up finding an LED HMBL from a Toyota Land Cruiser or its Lexus clone in the JY that was a near perfect fit. It's a self-contained inside mount unit that's ~18" wide - so plenty of LEDs to get people's attention. I had to shave a little off of the HMBL cover trim piece, and then used a bit of sticky tape to hold it up until I got a couple screws into the back hatch upper trim piece, and it hasn't fallen down since. I'll try to get some pics tonight to show what I mean.

I had several close calls and one tap against the spare before I added a high-mount brake light (HMBL) - and none since then. I think people are so used to the HMBLs that it catches them off guard when it's missing. It's worth the effort IMO, and probably easier than straightening out the bumper. And what did I do to my Pathfinder today? Backed it out of the garage in case the drip from the leaky roof caused the drywall to fall down... Just something else to add to the non-Pathfinder fix-it list...