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xterra

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Everything posted by xterra

  1. It's actually much simpler than that. The fog light relay has 5 connections, labeled like this: 30. This is the power circuit input from the low beams 85. This is your ground 86. This is the relay control circuit input from the switch. 87. There are two of these, which are the power circuit output to the fog lights Move the connection on the relay labeled "30" to a switched source, you can run the fogs independent of the headlights. No other changes are needed.
  2. Always glad to see another 2-door being saved! And really jealous of the brush guard - I've been looking for one for 3 years. (Sorry I can't help you with your suspension question...)
  3. RC- For question 1, all WD21 factory sunroofs are physically interchangeable. So are first gen WD22 (Xterra), D21 hardbody, and early Frontier sunroof glass. The difference is the connectors for the sunroof shade. I speak from personal experience because I've got an Xterra sunroof right now and I'm using my original shade that I swapped to cam connectors. Before 92/93, there was a screw connector to attach the shade to the glass. Nissan switched to a cam connector after that. You can't change the receptacle on the glass, but it's easy to swap the connectors from shade-to-shade. I can also tell you that Xterra sunroofs can be a PITA to get out at the JY because you have to take off the roof rack and gear basket. The latch inside the cabin is a bit different, but only takes a couple screws to remove. The benefit is that the weatherstipping is only 16 years old instead of 26, so much more pliable. Xterra shades will also physically fit on the WD21 glass. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33452-the-elusive-sunroof-shade/
  4. You should be okay losing the harness and cleaning things up a bit. If you need it, wiring for 93 can be found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39949-1993-radio-wire-diagram/?p=750742 The ash tray delete you did looks really good. For adding circuits, I added almost exactly that fuse box, but without the ground. Installed mine in the engine bay:
  5. Crab- The 2-pin round connector is Nissan's proprietary diversity antenna connector. On SE models, there's an antenna in the windshield and one on the fender. The cables come together above the glove box and end up as that cable. The factory head units had the circuits to pick the stronger of the two signals. There are adapters available to change it to a normal antenna connector that I used when I did my aftermarket stereo install. The small white connector looks like cigarette lighter light - the illumination ring around the lighter socket. I can't really see enough of the black and pink connector to say for sure, but that may have been the factor amp connector. If there are 8 wires to it, then that's probably what it is - but I can't be 100%. Some of the wires go from the radio connector to it, so you should be able to check continuity if you have the factory wiring diagram. Best of luck getting the sound system working.
  6. I used that site until I found this one: https://tiresize.com/converter/ It's a bit more intuitive (at least for me). Plus it's dead simple for research if you're changing wheel sizes - showing what sizes are available, the percent change in diameter, etc. I do still like the Taco site for speedometer offset, though.
  7. Replaced the switch bulbs, so I can finally see the hazard, cruise, and rear defroster switches at night. Also started working out what it is going take to add a 2003 R50 SE roof rack to my truck.
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