xterra

I went through a similar exercise earlier this year. My truck had Monroe's on it when I got it, and the ride wasn't very good. Lots of lateral play. I considered Rancho 5000s, but ended up getting Bilsteins based on other shock threads around here. I've only had them on for a month, but I haven't regretted the decision.

Just under 170K miles. I'm really not sure on the sulphur smell, unless it was the unburned/partially burned fuel. The smell is gone now, so just something that I'll keep in the back of my mind.

Suddenly started running like crap on Thursday. Loss of power, running rough, smelled like sulphur... Parts arrived today, so installed new plugs, wires, & distributor. Now it runs great again.

Here's one for sale in Japan. Says it's for an FJ Cruiser, but looks to be pretty universal to me. http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s438886779

Based on my own experience, this is really where you need to start. It was discussed a couple years ago here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36370-help-rear-brake-light-stuck-on-abs-dash-light-also-on And here's a great pic of what they look like: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38266-94-se-4x4-pathfinder-cruise-control-help/?p=724149 The rubber bumpers are something like $3 from a dealer. If your rig has cruise control, replace that one at the same time - same part number for both. (There's also a thread somewhere that I couldn't find where a member replaced the rubber bumper with a bolt and nut, so it wouldn't wear out.)

Got the horn and turn-signal-cancel functions working on my new steering wheel! I needed to sacrifice the back off the old wheel, but it had to be done.

I had one of those ladders on my first Xterra, and they're a no-drill installation. The bolts in picture 3 connect the ladder to a plate that slides over the lip of the liftgate. (You can see the edge of the tape holding the plate in place, too.) The bottom of the ladder also has tape to hold it in place, and there's bracket that clamps over the ladder bottom and has bolts on the inside that hold it in place against the door bottom. Here are the installation instructions I found for the left-hand version, but the installation is the same as I remember for the right-hand version I had. http://www.gobiracks.com/pdf/Gobi%20Xterra%2005-07%20Ladder%20installation%20instructions.pdf

I like to keep things a little more tidy. If I can't get the horn to work through the steering wheel, I'd have to go with something like this in my console:

Like Red, I bought my replacement from the dealer when my dash lights intermittently stopped working. It was somewhere right around $55, IIRC.

Got a package from Japan with my JDM Nissan MOMO Steering Wheel! It's in great shape and will be a nice upgrade from the worn-out original. No airbag inflator, but no loss since there weren't airbags in WD21s. And AFAIK, it's the first one installed in a WD21! The horn doesn't work right now since this has a completely different design, but that's something I can (hopefully) figure out this weekend.

For what it's worth, the rear wiper arm is interchangeable from R50 to WD21.

I've only placed one order from them, and it will probably be the only time. I ordered 3 parts - 1 was right, 1 was wrong (box had the right product code but it was the wrong part), and 1 was broken. It took over a week to get them to make it right. There's just too much drama and hassle, regardless of the discount.

Thanks, y'all Although it's really tempting to just leave the new voltmeter connected as-is, it looks like I'll be running a couple extra wires into the engine bay along with all my other prep work.

Exactly. Nissan P/N 72712-15G10 shows it fits 86-94 HB and 87-95 Pathfinder. Nissan P/N 72700-3B300 shows it fits 95-97 HB only. The diagram does show the wedge mount, too. I'm more inclined now to think that it will fit.

Today seems to be my day for questions. This time it's electrical. Where should I connect a new digital voltmeter to get a correct reading? Or is my in-dash voltmeter the one that's wrong? I'm prepping for a swap to a '93 gauge cluster and got a digital voltmeter to replace the one I'll be losing. It was a simple install where the lighter used to be, and I used the lighter power connections. My problem is I don't know which numbers (below) are right - or even where I should really be checking. key in the "ON" position, but not started: - in-dash gauge reads 14 (needle jumps immediately when I turn the key from ACC) - new gauge reads 12.4 - Fluke meter at the battery also reads 12.4. Started, at idle: - in-dash gauge reads 15 - new gauge reads 13.1 - Fluke meter at battery reads 13.0 (so close enough) When driving: - in-dash gauge read 16 - new gauge reads 13.7 So is the in-dash gauge giving a bad reading and the Fluke and the new meter are right? Or is there somewhere besides the battery that I should be checking with the Fluke that might be closer to the in-dash gauge? If it makes any difference, it has (what appears to be) the original alternator - and the battery is about a year old. Thanks all for your advice!

Does anyone know if the windshield from a '97 (and possible '96) D21 would fit a '90 WD21? The compass/temp mirror I have is windshield mount, but the d@mned wedge mount I added keeps falling off. The first couple tries, it didn't even last a week. I finally got a glass guy to install one last year, but last week the mount peeled away from the adhesive. Cleaned it really well again and trying some epoxy, and it's held for a week so far... I saw a '97 D21 in the JY yesterday, and it had a windshield mounted rearview mirror. The in-windshield antenna jogged around the wedge mount, so looked to be factory. If it didn't have a huge crack in it, I would have spent the $40 on the off chance it would have fit. My existing windshield has a couple chips in it already, and a crack is slowly starting to spread - but hasn't reached magic 3" that the insurance company requires to cover the cost of a new one. When the time comes, I'd really like to the get '97 D21 windshield if it will fit.

Got it aligned. Needed to after putting new Bilsteins on all the way around. Ride is noticeably better.

If it's the connector that I'm thinking of, it's for the inclinometer they sold in Japan, Australia, and New Zealand - but not originally here in the States. 2 wire, small connector. If you check it with a voltmeter, it should only show power when your other dash lights are on.

Having an auto-dimming mirror is nice, but I went for a 2-piece option for a couple reasons. Expense, like Damuho noted, and covering the hole in the headliner. I opted for a Compass/Temp/Dimming mirror (from a Saturn Vue in the JY for $10 w/ 10 foot of harness) and separate HomeLink (from a Range Rover off of ebay for $25) to cover the hole in the headliner (pic below). I've had issues with the mirror wedge staying attached to the glass. I tried 2 different adhesives supposedly dedicated for that, and they were off by the next morning. Regular epoxy failed after 3 months. Finally tried Gorilla Glue Epoxy, and it's held for about a year now. If it comes off again, I'm taking it to a glass shop and letting the professionals install the wedge!

I guess Nashville is just a WD21 magnet. I regularly see 5 others, including a red one at work. There are even more that I see on the rare occasion (on the road, not so much in the JY anymore). Mine's the only 2-door, though.

Jim, I've been following your progress and am glad to see another 2-door being saved. For the air horn, I like that solution that Ahardb0dy came up with for his, well, Hardbody pickup... He mounted it under the fender well so it's semi-stealth, but still accessible. Your 3' horn may be too long to fit there, though. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38061-ahardb0dys-93-nissan-hardbody/?p=739680

Exactly - sunroofs on the WD21s are removable, and this provides some (minimal) protection when you take it out.

Went spelunking to a couple wrecking yards in Alabama, and found the extremely elusive sunroof glass storage bag! By the looks of it, it had been folded up under the back seat and forgotten about for 28 years. Best of all, since there isn't a "Sunroof Storage Bag" on their pricelist, I got it for $2.50 (plus tax)!

My first attempt at adding a cuphold didn't work out so well - I actually ended up breaking the console box. Last weekend at the JY I found a new console box (albeit in "blue grey"), and that a Volvo 940 armrest/cupholder is an easy fit. And when you don't need them, they retract back into the armrest! (I'm not thrilled with the tri-tone effect, but I'll deal with it for now.)

There's a thread here from a few years ago - not sure if he ever did the swap or not. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31672-hardbody-parking-brake-in-a-pathfinder/ There also some information about swapping in an R50 console by moving the ebrake over to the left a few inches. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34486-cup-holder-ideas/?hl=+console%20+cup%20+holders If you're set on the Tuffy console, you could try moving the ebrake over and getting their console designed for a Samurai with the ebrake opening.