xterra

Replaced the corner lights and front grille (which was faded and starting to crack) with chrome ones from RockAuto. They look great, but now the bumper looks horrible. I gonna hold off on replacing that, though, until I find a first gen brush guard (the kind that attaches to the fron of the bumper using the bumper bolts) or find a 93-95 chromed bumper in decent shape at a JY.

There are a few Heeps around here that have bike carriers mounted to their spares. The two styles I've seen either mount around the tire or have a hub connector and removable pipe (pics below for inspiration).

I used Plasti-Kote brand that I picked it up from Amazon. Added it to another order to get free shipping. It did take quite a while to cure, though - at least 4 hours (not the 1 hour that it said on the bottle). I waited overnight before applying the bed liner just to be safe

Finally decided to tackle the only rust on my truck - the battery tray and the area right around it. Tried one of the rust converter products, and it seems to have worked as advertised. All the places it was bubbling and scaling are now solid again.. Top coated it with bedliner and just waiting for it to dry.

That's a good looking rig.

Dropped the AC blower motor because I couldn't take the "whirring" noise anymore. It still amazes me how much noise a pine needle can make...

Good to hear - I'm looking forward to the write-up & pics. For me, I don't want to permanently change the harness - I guess it's just the purist in me. or (take your pick) Just like I used an adapter harness when I replaced the factory head unit, I want to create an adapter harness for the cluster so it can (easily) be put back to stock at some later date. (In fact, I haven't done anything to my truck that can't be reversed, with the exception of cutting holes in the dash pad for the inclinometer.)

I've been considering this for a while, but it's not quite that simple. The connections are not the same for the 93, and some key indicators moved from the lower bezel to the main cluster, and vice-versa. There are also a couple extra indicators on the 93 (Check Engine and ABS) that don't exist (at least on mine). I've been mapping the different wires between my 90 and the 93. The hardest part is trying to create an interface harness so that I don't have to cut into the factory harness. For what it's worth, 89-92 all appear to be interchangeable - but the 93 is unique.

Cruise problem could also be caused by the rubber/silicone bumper on the brake pedal arm crumbling. It acts as a cancel for the cruise when the brake is depressed. If you've seen some unusual blue or green rubber bits on the floor, take a look in there.

Replaced the LH power window/lock switch. Old one stopped unlocking doors and the RH power window lockout was always enabled. Quickest update that I've done on my truck.

Clarion is Nissan's primary head unit manufacturer and has been for years - so no big surprise there. The Bose refers to the amps and speakers, assuming those haven't been upgraded. As for part numbers, you might also want to take a look into part number 999u9-nv003 and 999u9-as003 for the Sirius module.

Just under $1000 for the main seal and oil pressure switch, which was less than 1/2 of what the dealership was quoting.

I recently had my main rear seal replaced, and had a great conversation with my new mechanic on this exact topic. From what he said, the design of the engine and tranny means that oil collects exactly where you're seeing it. It can also come from leaking valve cover gaskets, and spilled oil during an oil change, in addition to the main seal. There's lots of good info in the garage section. And lots of folks with lots of knowledge hang around here, too. (Sorry, I can't weigh in on the rust.)

SymPATHY (1) A feeling of pity for the distress of another, especially for Jeep owners (2) A relationship between people or things that are mutually affected by their condition, such as going off-road or being part of NPORA

+1 on the Rogue, if you want to stay in the Nissan family. A friend had one, and they're surprisingly roomy with plenty of pep out of the 2.5L i4 (QR25DE) engine, which uses a timing chain.

I can confirm that an WD22 Xterra sunroof is a direct physical fit to the WD21 Pathfinder sunroof opening. The X sunroof didn't have the latch anymore, but that was two screws and 5 minutes to swap over. From what I can tell, the biggest difference is that the X sunshade holder has cam connectors instead of screw connectors, like Adamzan mentioned. (I already had a sunshade with cam connectors that I got a few weeks ago that I was going offer up here, but I didn't notice the fiberboard backing was pretty badly damaged. I just swapped over the connectors and and the original fit perfect.) Other minor differences are that there's more of the black paint around the edge and the dot pattern is different, but that's about it.

Thanks Nunya. That may be worth a shot. I already tried replacing the seal (or "protector" as Nissan calls it) with a new one from Nissan. I had to cut and scrape to get the old one off, and the new one was anything but a tight fit. I had to use weatherstripping adhesive and it looks like crap. I did some more digging after I posted last night, and the P/N for the Xterra sunroof is the same as for the '94-'95 Pathfinders. Which then begs the question, what's different between them and the '87-'93 version?

So here's a related question. If the X shade fits the WD21 sunroof, will a 2000 X sunroof fit a 1990 WD21 roof opening? There's an X at the JY that I pulled the roof rack off of today with a perfect sunroof and seal (no shade, but I already have that). There isn't a WD21 with a sunroof in the yard for me to experiment with, so I'm throwing this out to the brain trust.

Also don't forget about the marker/corner lights. They're wired separately from the headlights and that circuit also control the tail lights. I'd suggest looking up the Directed Electronics (DEI) 545T nite-lite system. It's $30 from SonicElectronix, a dead simple install, doesn't require cutting any wires on the factory harness, and only takes about an hour or two to install. I added it to mine a few weeks ago and it works like a champ. It gives you a couple added options, over the simple relay setup, too. It's got a photocell, so lights only come on when it gets dark. You can have DRLs (headlights only, no markers) if you don't cut the red wire inside the case. And you can wire it up to your wipers to have the lights come on when it's raining. There's even an option for what you want to do - headlights, markers, and tail lights on all the time. I'm only using the photocell option, but that's all I was looking for.

I'm always glad to see another 2-door being saved from wrecking yard.

Oh, you meant Groundhog Day. I thought you were talking about this...

Picked up the truck from the (new) shop - a local 3rd party Nissan specialist that I'm very impressed with. The owner used to race Z cars back in the 70s and 80s, and really seems to know his stuff. In addition to the main rear seal and oil pressure switch, they also found the neutral switch, oil pan seal, and transfer case were leaking and fixed that. And they diagnosed the rattling noise from the back was coming from a loose sway-bar link and bushing - not the helper spring seats like the other 3rd party shop said. I still need to order the new shocks and t-bars, but this place will install them. (They checked with one of their suppliers, and they wanted twice the price I found online for the Bilstein 4600s - but have no issues with me providing them.)

As you probably know from lurking for a while, we love pics! Show off your rig!

5523- I've got pics and model info on my build thread.