xterra

Thanks all for the ideas! (And a special thanks to B for the pictures behind the trim - even though your WD21 has two too many doors!) Since I had today off, I went to the local self serve JY and came with a couple goodies. First I found a rear wing and hinges (my truck doesn't have one). A little faded, but nothing a little sanding and Krylon won't fix. It came off of a 94, so it's contoured for an exterior light. The color on the donor was wrong (green instead of black) and the light was completely jacked up, but it's something that I can keep any eye out for. Once I find a black one, I'll probably just use the shell and lens cover and make new innards to replace the LEDs based on other threads I've read. For plan "B" I got an R50 brake light - the wider one with 8 or 10 bulbs. I've got a spare XE hatch glass I was using until I found some SE glass, so I can test epoxying some bolts onto it and getting some measurements. Plan "C" would be to get a Ron Francis Wiring stick on light from Summit Racing - but it's $51 and I can get a whole back door/hatch from my local JY for $35. As always, the information here has been great and put my on a path. (It may not be the right path, but it's better than standing still...) I'll let all y'all know how it ends up.

It happened again today. I came to a stop sign and heard skreaching brakes behind me for the forth time in as many weeks. No impact yet, but it feels like it's only a matter of time. I've checked my brake lights, and they're both working fine. (Yes, both. As in only two.) My theory is that people have become so used to high-mount third brake lights that they don't realize you're stopping without seeing something at eye level. (They could also be texting, eating, or putting on make-up, but it's my story and sticking with it...) I know that this is primarily an offroad forum, so the third brake light may not be as big a concern. But my truck will be my daily driver in less than two months - and I'd like to keep it on the road and out of the body shop. So after trying searches and finding zilch, I figured I'd throw the question out to the community. - There doesn't appear to be any way to use the factory light/washer nozzle combo from later WD21s without replacing the whole hatch from a doner. Has anyone successfully done this transplant? Did the patient survive? - Has anyone installed an after-market third brake light? - What was the brand, model? Was it interior or exterior? How was it mounted? - Has anyone tried the Jeep approach and mounted it to their spare tire carrier? Any ideas, advice, and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

You may want to see if this is an option in Texas: When I bought my rig in Arizona and drive it back here to Tennessee, I was able to get a "non-resident transfer tag." Basically I paid for a piece of paper to put in the window and sign a document saying I was leaving the state within 3 days. Good luck - and I can't wait to see pics of your truck once you get it home.

Very good looking truck. I don't know if I could have been as patient as you've been waiting to see/drive your rig. My '90 Pathy came from a cushy life in Arizona (154K miles when I got it and not a lick of rust), but it now calls Tennessee home...

I don't think the part in the diagram is the sunroof shade I think it's the gasket that goes around the perimeter of the sunroof itself. You might find some useful information on this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33452-the-elusive-sunroof-shade/ Apparently Xterra (first gen WD22) shades will fit, but may need a change to the fasteners.

I went through this recently as well (with Pep Boys). Got them online for both the hatch and glass. Took them both back to the store for a refund because they were no where near the correct part. Ended up getting new StrongArm brand supports through Amazon. Less than $65 total for all four, but I think well worth it for the bolt-on convenience.

I had the same issue with my '90, and it's a simple fix once you find out how. For the part, check out the JY in your area - the part is the same at least for all of the 87-93 Pathfinders and Hardbody trucks. For the location, it's down behind the driver-side kick panel trim (where your left foot would typically be when driving) like Terranovation said. To get to it, take out the driver side kick-plate trim. That will free up the lower part of the trim panel, which is held in place with 1 screw near the top. Once you get that out, you'll find two electric components tucked back there - one black and one metal with white plastic. (Page EL-89 of the FSM shows the rough location and there the 2 parts are located. The black one is supposedly just for the for the seatbelt timer and the metal one is supposedly the warning chime (per page EL-67 of the FSM) - but I had to change both of them to fix the problem on my truck. YMMV. Hope this helps.

Just saw this on ebay (not mine). It looks to be an exact match. The lip is a little munched, but still looks usable.

I tried (unsuccessfully) to get into my truck through about 1/2" of ice. Frozen doors, windows, and locks means I have to work from home today (oh, darn ). Come on - this is NASHVILLE, not <insert insanely cold northern city here>.

Thanks - I'll try this once I get back into town. My sunroof "jumps" whenever I slam the driver's door...

Bubbley11- I had to go in that hole at some point - at least now I know how it's all put together. That will make it a lot easier to tear apart later on. Besides, I actually like working on electrical. As long as you keep your polarity straight, there are only three possibilities: It works (which is good), it doesn't work (which is bad), or or goes fizzle-fizzle-boom (which is a great excuse reason to get a new toy). Slartibartfast- Thanks. I'd never even thought of that - and I've got flux in my toolbox from when I had to do some copper pipe work.

So just got back in from the garage and the fog lights now work like they should - but it wasn't nearly as easy as it should have been. Simple, yes - but not easy. The short version: Bubbley11 was right. The purple wire does need voltage for the fog lights to work. I connected the purple wire directly to the battery and the fogs worked. Then I made the mistake of wanting to hook it up "the right way" - so that they only work when the low beams are on. The long version: There was a crimp-on butt connector less than an inch away from the bulb socket. I'm guessing that the fogs were connected there at one point, but the tap connector cut through the wire and whoever repaired it just wanted the headlight working. Either that, or someone many years ago way a sadist and knew that I'd need to make a connection there in 2014. While I wasn't thrilled with this setup, I didn't want to mess with it either. "It's been like that for a long time," I said to myself. So I cleaned up the purple wire from where I had put on a test lead. I grabbed a new tap connector, put it all together, and tested it. Success. I win!! Because of the location of the tap, I figure it wouldn't hurt to wrap some electric tape around it (to keep out any water) before shoving it all back in. While I'm putting the tape on, the wire from the bulb end of the barrel connector decides that now would be the perfect time to slide out and say hello to me... Okay. Deep Breath. I figured that this is just fate telling me that, since I'm already here, I should fix it right. Or as right as I can make it with less than an inch of wire. I pull off the barrel connector and the tap connector and get out the soldering iron and shrink tubing. I look at the soldering iron and am quickly reminded that I need a new tip. So after a trip to Radio Shack, I'm all set. Except that the wire is extremely corroded. And despite my best cleaning effort, I can't get any solder to stick. Let's see - time for plan C. I dig out my box of electrical connectors to see what other options I have. I have some quick disconnect crimp on connectors. That should work. So I crimp one connector to the stubby on the socket and the other to both the low beam lead and purple wire. Slip on some heat shrink tubing, connect the wires, add some heat to the tubing, and it's done. Success. Victory is mine! So I tuck the wiring back into place, but remember that I pulled the tap connector. I get out my electrical tape to cover the hole in the insulator (and keep out any water)... and see that the wire has already broken at that very spot. Deep breath. One more. Okay. Plan D. I've lost about 2" of lead for the low beams, so I need to make up for that. I've got a whole lot of extra length in the purple cable... Hmm. I could use a tap connector to add the lead to the purple wire, but that didn't work out to well last time. So I cut a 4" piece of the purple wire. I grab a barrel connector and crimp the low beam lead and purple lead to one end, and the 4" piece to the other. I crimped that lead to another barrel connector that I then crimped to the stubby. I make sure that all the connections are tight and none of the wire is going to slip out. It's not pretty, but it works. Next time I go to the JY, I'll grab a new bulb socket and cut the leads as far back as I can. There shouldn't be any corrosion, so I'll solder everything and shrink tube it. I look at the connections and think "You know, I should probably wrap the ends in electrical tape (to keep out any water)." So I took my electrical tape, threw it in the toolbox, and came inside to have a beer.

Thank you both. I'll try connecting the purple to the battery (to emulate the low beam) in the morning and let you know if that works!

I'm lucky in that I have a 2-door MPFI from the factory. But I don't have the curved dash, keyless, ABS, or any of the other goodness from a 95. I'd love to see an update on how the Frankensteined rig has been running. (I'm assuming it's done since this thread was started in 2008...)

The OEM fog lights haven't worked since I bought my Pathy. So since I had it inside anyway to clean the leaves out of the heater box and change out the rear window washer nozzle, I figured I'd tackle this too. Thanks to the information from Trogdor636 I found in this thread, I was able to trace out the wiring and do some testing. Switch: Apparently works. I get continuity between the green + yellow (back and middle) wires when the switch is pushed in (which I assume if off). I get continuity between green + purple (back and front) (and green + yellow) in the "on" position. The switch looks like it might illuminate, but it never has lit up. Wires going to the switch: Nothing. Nada, No power between any of them with the engine off, acc, or on. No power between any of them with the headlights on or off. I assumed it was a blown fuse until I found and tested it. Fuse: Looked okay, confirmed continuity, changed it out anyway. Fog Lights: Work when connected directly to a 12V source. Relay: Unknown. (How do I test a relay to know if it's working???) Disconnected wire: The purple wire in the engine compartment isn't hooked up to anything (see below). By the looks of it, it's never been hooked up to anything. And I have no way of knowing if the fog lights ever worked. Since these were dealer (or port) installed, they're not in the FSM. (And it explains all of the extra wire tucked into the fender and zip tied by the relay and under the bumper.) Any information or other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm eventually planning to replace the OEM lights when I add a brush guard, but that's still a ways off. So I'd like to get these working until I get to that point.

I am so glad this bumped to the top again. Had a strange noise and odor start on New Year's Day, and sure enough this was the issue. 10 minutes of work took care of 23 years of accumulated stuff. HVAC is purring like a kitten now.

I had a similar issue with my Pathy - except it already had a 3rd party pump on it. Ended up getting a new tank with both pumps attached from the JY for $15. Very easy swap, since you have to pull the reservoir anyway.

Finally got my lower dash assembly from a 1993 installed in my 1990. Lots of plastic fabrication work involved over the last couple weeks, but I now have 2 USB power ports to charge various items and a felt lining on the bottom so that it doesn't scratch. Couldn't use original mounting brackets for the DIN pocket since the dash support structure in the back is different from between the two, so the DIN pocket is epoxied to the trim ring and I added a screw from underneath to keep it from popping out. The donor piece was "new grey" and not "brown-grey" like my interior. Since I haven't found a paint to match the brown-grey (Rustoleum London Grey is close but a lighter shade), I painted it black. Doesn't look too bad IMHO.

Thank you all for the feedback. I've got some time since the fabrication of the bezel is going to be the time consuming part. Red- Thanks for confirming I'm not certifiable - at least not about this. I've thought about the screen below, but honestly I think that's just too low to be that useful. That's where I may end up, but it's not my preference going in. (I also just installed a single DIN lower assembly under the factory radio that I pulled from a 1993 donor, put added two USB power ports for charging cell phones, etc. I'll try to get pix up next week.) Kyle- I pulled a spare auto climate out of a unit from a JY since my #3 fan speed doesn't work. When I did that, I looked at the wire routing, and it came up from below. Like you said, It was a tight squeeze getting it unplugged from the harness. But since it's coming up from behind the glove box, I think I can make it fit. I'll need to spend more time with the JY unit where I don't have to be too worried about screwing something up. No mechanical connections, thankfully. 5523- I just installed an inclinometer a couple weekends ago. I had thought of doing that, but all of the flip-up single DIN navi systems are too deep to fit in the inclinometer housing. (Plus I like knowing just how cattywampus the truck is, so I don't want to lose the inclinometer... :-) ). I really want everything integrated into a single head unit. I'm looking at units that let me combine navi, iPod, and backup camera. A couple will even integrate with their own TPMS systems, although I'm not sure what good those really are. Nunya- I'll look into that and see what I can find. Thanks for the suggestion. Ex Brit- I agree it might be easier, but not too sure on functionality. To have to take my eyes off the road to know where I'm going seems weird... :-)

I've looked for any information on this, and as far as I can tell I'm the only person on the planet loco enough to even consider this idea. My truck is going to become my daily driver as soon as I get a couple mechanical issues resolved over the holidays. After that, it's onto the fun stuff. One of the things I'm considering is to add in-dash Navi to a truck that was never made for it. My first question is if the AC controls can be relocated with relative ease? The wiring harness looks to have enough slack, but I'm not sure about the "snorkel" for the temperature sensor. The FSM isn't of much help here. I'm hoping to end up with something like this: I know that I'll have to fabricate the bezel (or frankenstein something together). I have a half-down trim bezels I've collected from the local self-serve junk yards, so I have plenty experiment with. And I know that I'll have to cut a couple horizontal metal supports located behind the trim. Do they actually provide any structural support, or is it just over-engineered to keep the dash from sagging? The reason for the Navi on top is so that it's more accessible and easier to see without having to look all that far down. So, is this just crazy talk? Someone talk me off the ledge.

Installed a JDM inclinometer I bought off ebay from New Zealand: