txpath4x4

Nothing a tap and new bolts won't remedy... But other than that everything else is going smooth new centerlink... Better designed, new idler arm; strut rod bushings fun fun fun

And a few more

So brakes locked up on me, so I figured I was this far I might as well do the bushings that needed to be replaced... Well the genius who did my last alignment galded the UCA mounting bolts... Here is some pics

ah so that is my abs unit...

Hey guys n gals what is the valve thing on the frame rail that goes to your rear brakes? My parents quest had one also it looks like an inline pump

So I noticed one difference... The head rest, my 94 XE has solid headrest, while gv280z 94 SE has holes in the middle

I also just found out that the back seat reclines... I thought it only went forward with that handle

Guess that is the bad thing about us being all over the earth we can't run over and help them figure it out, or bring a 6 pack and a lawn chair to watch them j/k Maybe I Miss understood him it said that when he came to a stop it started surging.

Had a 01 exploder, iac stopped working and it surged at any temp, at idle; haven't had the issue on the pathfinder so I can't speak for how'd it act on a Nissan . I noticed y'all generally refer to it as the iac motor, on the fords and Chevys it's an iac valve just spring and diaphragm...

Huh I never knew that could possibly resolve the issue, I have a few cluster issues maybe that might fix them... Gas gauge waiving slowly until I hit it etc

You'd think that, but they have weird crap wired in with other stuff, or could be your whole cluster they apparently have a tendency to crap out

I think he is asking do they fit the top and bottom of the coil spring

If it's surging at idle could be the idle air control

Might have blown a fuse for your cluster

Yeah x2 on everything, I use gates belts and hoses... And I have a commercial account at my local Oreilly auto parts so I get a discount. So I get their new water pump and such. Hey B did you do the wife's ? How much different is it than the 3.0

As far as I know, it should LOCK all doors and hatch with one turn, when unlocking one turn is drivers door 2 in rapid succession will unlock all doors and hatch

Took the R52 to the dealer for damage assessment of the fender bender the wife had... And to get the fog lights installed

When I was introduced to cars at the ripe age of 4 I was told all cars are girls and to name them appropriately. My 04 Ram is Bonnie cause she will rob you blind( 12 mpg) and she's a killer. Juliet is the pathfinder cause our story is one of constant tragedy, and there are few others That's JP And I have my 84 GMC which is Blue, cause she is light blue

Ride through the country, cause this is where i live LOL 6 acres and nothing around me!!

no checking the timing with a light is to determine that you are firing at the correct time, and on the right cylinder. i had this same problem on my '84 GMC small block... had to replace the distributor on that one. im with Alkorahil definitely sounds distributor related. an easy way to tell on the crank if you are firing at the right time (at least how i do it) paint the slash that you need only and point the light on the crank

Happy fathers day to all the Dads out there in Pathfinder Land

well i lowered my T bars a little bit and evened them out, driver side was maxed out. now i have some travel before the CA bump stop. but i don't know what the PO originally had on the truck. cause i have no rubbing when turning the wheel.. oh well. i just know i want to go a little higher to get some clearance under me. either BJ spacers and coil spacers from Fleurys when they are available... or if Beastpath gets back to me on his for sale stuff...either way i am on a mission

hey my peeps, this is my first instructional so forgive me in advance like it says i lowered my rear axle on the 94 today and don't remember an illustrated version so for all to see my shade tree mechanics at work!! step 1 jack up the truck at the rear chunk as this will lift the rear somewhat even and support with jacks. Here is the best location i found: it is just past the Lower Trailing Arms frame mount Step 2 Take off wheels, then undo Shocks and track bar ( it is the bar that goes diagonal across the back) the shocks use a 17 MM and the track bar uses a 20 MM. Step 3 as the picture shows lower the rear axle till the Trailing arms bottom out but watch your rubber brake line as not to damage it from this point the springs can be removed with ease with a little prying, when i did it i was able to push up and pull out, no compressors needed here is picture from the driver side without the axle bump step 4 use a wire wheel or brush to clean the area or dirt and grime ok for us SAE people i used a 17/32 drill bit and a 5/8-11 tap set step 5 install axle stops, there is an F with a directional arrow for front ok if you are installing new shocks and spring this is where you would install them. and just reverse the process. IMPORTANT NOTE. Install the bottom shock mounts first for 2 reasons A) the track bar blocks them B ) it helps locate the axle for the track bar. jack up the axle install wheels and make sure everything is tight Have Fun!! Jason

yeah it is a shame there isn't that many of us in Texas hell i think we are the only 2 that are active on the coast... Yep unless its a big truck on 44's or a jeep lifted to the sky...no Love for the Pathy