MrEviLDeD

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Not to sound corny but I have grown quite fond of this community. You are all pretty great folks and I am honored to be welcomed. Eventually I hope to be able to give back in some way as many of you have. Cheers! With that said, let's see if I cannot get this fixed before my grace time for repairs on the inspection is up (10 days). CV Axles are already in. Going to check some wreckers for the fuel lines and the bumper. I will check the other front end parts but I do not have the outlay of another 205 for the sway bar and such. Maybe at bet the tie rod ends.. But this would be a good start right? I can do the other parts later, after the inspection? Again thanks everyone.

Will I need anything special to replace the CV Axles in terms of tools? Also while I am at the front end the costs aren't high should I replace the tie rods? I suspect if there was anything wrong with them it would have been in the report.

Really took the wind out of my sails to be honest. Now to come up with another whack of cash and I she will be fixed. Regarding the suggestion about taking my old pathfinder bumper. The guy had some gm bumper on it. It fits but would that have passed? I will have to scope the wreckers and or consider paying with 160$ to nissan if they still have them. Just going to replace the cv axles. 99$ each from PartSource. The front and rear oil seals should be what 5$ each? Need to price out or scavenge a complete fuel line unless Nissan has it reasonably priced. Could get it back on the road for not that much. One things with Pathfinders is they are always chalk full of adventure.. Sometimes good, sometimes bad, often great... =)

Yea I was surprised. I chalk it up to Alberta making unfair demands on vehicle inspections. Because it is an "import" from BC into AB it is subject to a 119 point inspection. If it was a car from AB then it would have only be a 46 point inspection. I have no way to scan it but i have the report right here just makes you blink.. At least it wasn't or isn't as bad as I thought it would be. The fuel line might be a problem but outside of that couple of new CV axles(rmfg or not) and some quick fixes with the other stuff seems like it should put the truck back in order.. Just not looking forward to the rear seal. It is a 5-speed so glad to hear it will be slightly easier.. What tools would I need for that. Guess I can get that from the FSM. Are the wheel bearings hard to change? Would it be worth to replace or just try to adjust?

WOW. Pardon my over-reaction. I have however gotten the actual report back. I had not actually read it out and seen what had failed before I posted. Just responded to the guy saying that everyting was wrong with it and not worth fixing.... Everyone please excuse my poor behavior. Following is a list of things that are failed: Pre-Inspection: CV Join Road Test Result Vehicle Wanders or Pulls Driveability Notes: Vehicle wanders and pulls right - bad vibration/pulsation in front end (I have no idea what that means) Lamps: Lamps (general) Daytime Running Lamps Notes: Daytime running lamps inoperative-requires diagnosis and/or repair Exterior General: Bumpers Notes: Rear bumper rusted through-improper repair performed Under Hood: Battery Accessory Belt Drive System Fuel System Oil Leaks Notes: No proper battery hold down-belts cracked, improper fuel lines, major oil leaks(requires diagnosis) Steering and Suspension: Wheel bearings Notes: Excessive front wheel bearing play Tires and Wheels: Tire condition (my own fault, I had two new ones to put on but they were out of town) Notes: Front tires separated and wobble Under Vehicle: Bumpers Engine Drive Axles / Propeller Shafts Fuel System Notes: Rear bumper rusted through and improperly repaired, major oil leaks(required diagnosis and/or repair), both front CV boots torn, improper fuel line repair and improper routing Thank fully some of it actually passed, 119 point inspection this one was... WOW.. The fuel line wasn't my patch but seems to be that whoever had the truck replaces the steel lines running to the back with rubber ones.. Regarding the tires I had two good ones just didn't get a chance to pull them to put on the pathfinder before the inspection. The ones on there looked pretty good.. Anyhow.. Seems to me almost a pretty easy list of things to fix with the exception of the rear seal and or finding out where the oil is leaking from. He said it is "wet" but I haven't seen any oil drip from this vehicle. I was warned by the fellow that I bought it from that the rear seal was a little worn as well as the CV Joints and the used conditioner to keep things together.. Should have thrown some in before heading over... and given the engine a good wash.... Saved myself some trouble... With that said. Again everyone I apologize for my childish behavior. I will always love pathfinders and some of you guys have been simply awesome here at NPORA. I will fix it! Cheers

OK, well all of my goings on and such were for naught. The inspector said that there is so much wrong with the pathfinder that it isn't worth fixing. He gave me a little list, like CV boots, and a severe shake in the front end. Something about the rear seal leaking and that is leaking so much oil. I haven't seen it drip even one drop of oil. Said something about some of the metal fuel lines have been replaced with rubber and that isnt' allowed.. I made a really bad choice picking up the other pathfinder. now I am about 2500 more in the whole with purchase, travel and expenses and parts etc and have two useless pathfinders.. This completely is completely devastating. I apologize for wasting any of your time.

I seem to be riddled with problems this time around... Sorry for being such a forums pest. Since I think I have everything taken care of in terms of the out of province inspection I wondered about one last little thing.. I am not sure if this would fail me and I am sorry for the way the topic reads out.. When driving at any speed the steering wheel kind of jiggles.. By jiggle I mean rotates back and forth very very slightly like a shake.Overall the truck seems to drive straight. First, what things should I be looking at that might cause this.. Second would it be enough to cause a fail in an out of province inspection? Again sorry for the almost relentless onslaught of questions.

Ok well seems the patch I outlined above seems to do the trick. I just hope it passes the inspection. Following are some pictures of the repair. I am kind of happy with the result considering everything else I tried up to now has not worked at all. Thanks everyone for staying on track with me on this problem I appreciate it. Some good suggestions. As you can see here I put the prepared putting INTO the small bit of hose and then pressed it firmly into place and tightened the clamp. Eventually it squeezed some of the putty out the bottom(cannot be seen) and end to which I pressed into firm smooth shape. I then let it cure for 3 hours. Would have left it longer however I needed to get someplace and thought might as well give it a try. Held up no problem so far. Man the camera really shows the rust, normal eyes do not show it up so bad... No really I promise

Nifty. Appreciate that thanks. If the links do not work a little sleuthing on my part will solve it.

I have noticed a few times on the forums here people using something called Nissan FAST. Is this something I can download? Where would I find it and how much would it cost?

I was wondering, Are these portlets 5/16" or 1/4" I assume looking at the size of the hose it is 5/16" just wanted to be sure. Going to try a clamp, hose, putty fix. Going to shove warmed putty in the hole, going to half cut an 1" (slit down the hose not half) hose, wrap it around the leak and the putty and fasten a compression clamp to help keep it all together.. Thoughts?

I had hopes for that temporary fix. Went out this morning to give it a try. Didn't seem to do anything at all unless I applied it incorrectly. Either way I appreciate the suggestion, thank you.

Can I order a new sending unit?

Here is a picture of the area. I clipped it to cut out clutter. As you can see it is pretty rusty in there. Is this just a cover? Is the pump one whole unit? Like all I need to replace is the portlet that is leaking. Can I do this without having to replace the entire pump? Also, doesn't look like any of the pumps I have seen will match this one? Do they not come with the cover? And if they don't how do I fix this? Any suggestions as always are welcomed. Here is a view of the whole area.

Ok finally got to the hatch. Looks like one of the port tubes from the fuel pump has a pin sized leak in it. When I cleaned off the rust and turned the key to make sure it wasn't just a weak connection with the hoses (which look close to new actually) and it just streaked this one single stream coating the roof ) I tried the mastic stuff but it would not even bind to the metal. Just hardened and spun off.. Looks like I need to replace the fuel pump unless someone has another idea. Otherwise I believe the fuel tank is ok. No holes or leaks. Was refreshed to see that it was not the tank, but either way I just don't have the budget to replace the fuel pump. Sigh.

Could someone give a link to that "string" and or "tape measure" methods of wheel alignment. Please

Very detailed thank you. Just what I needed. I will pick up replacement bolts just in case. I would have most likely forgotten to release the fuel pressure, A+ for that one too. It will only be me so I will make sure to take a bunch of boards and a floor jack. I have two bottle jacks as support if needed and will do as you suggest go in through the access panel. With some good fortune maybe I will be able to access the leak or at least have a much better view of where it is leaking from. I didn't even now there was an access panel under the rear carpet Still have a lot to learn even if I can turn a few bolts. Thanks again Slartibartfast!

Will do it tomorrow. If I do not post tomorrow night well.. Check the news outlets in Calgary for headlines that read out along the lines of "Man dies in fiery home garage explosion!" I JEST! BOOOM!

Thanks for the feed back. From what I can see, and it isn't easy to see in there at all but it looks like it is leaking from the seam. However the whole area is wet and it could be from anywhere above as well. Do the pathfinder tanks have a screen that will prevent me from siphoning the gas? Bare with me, if I were to siphon enough gas out of it that the tank it self was light enough to lower and did all the protective measure such as disconnecting the neg terminal, etc. Could I lower the tank? Before I read the messages here I picked up something called Tech Steel. It is a two part epoxy that you twist and knead until it is mixed evenly and then applied to the puncture. The goal line right now is to get this thing inspected and passed so I can transfer my insurance. I am going to order a new tank from Rock Auto as suggested by adamzan just time isn't a luxury. I hate not doing things as correctly as I should... Don't think less of me

I filled it a couple days ago and it just sat outside so there isn't a spill someplace that is still leaking. Just to rule that out as a possibility..

Just about ready to take the truck in for its out of province inspection only to find out that the gas tank is leaking. When I was working on it, it only had a 1/4 tank and never noticed any leaking. Filled it up and pretty steady drip.. Are there any common places I should look first? Will I have to drop the gas tank? It is 3/4 full and will be pretty heavy. Will take a while to siphon and I do not have a container large enough to hold it all.. What are my options?

Ok DONE! I still need to adjust the emergency brakes a bit but they are in and the rear lines bled. I wasn't able to get the right-rear cable seated so it wil have to wait until my hand heals and I can get back under there to give it some good taps. Thanks for all the help I appreciate it.

Does gravity bleeding work for new wheel cylinders? I noticed that there was some dot-3 trickling out however it was pretty impossible to tell if there were or were not bubbles. I had an accomplice lightly press in the brake pedal until I saw no more bubbles, then let it leak out for a few moments. If I had no of pressured the brakes I would have never noticed it the air was gone or more. so I guess I did half-and-half

It went rather smooth. However I am or was as of today unable to get the driver-side cable back into the backing plate. In fact while trying the drive slipped and I smashed my hand full force with a rubber mallet, Hair line fracture for sure.... With that said hopefully tomorrow I will get that seated properly and get the u piece back connected to the hand brake handle. All that will be left then is bleeding.

When it came right down to it.. There is no point making photos of getting the cable out. Just make sure to get a vice-grip on it tight enough to turn it.. give it a couple turns. and then lightly keep tapping it out. Will need to wiggle a little and pry equally around all sides available. Note there is also a little rubber stopper around the drum-side of the emergency brake cable. It will pull through but you might want to use a small diameter awl in both side and help loosen it a bit. Pretty straight forward once you get it off.