MrEviLDeD

Ok well I was able to get the rusted drivers side off today. Seems it was just not using the correct tool. I used a smaller vice grip on it and was able to finally get it to turn a little. then a little more. Eventually I was able to get a flat edge in there and tap it out little by little... It is in fact NOT threaded and it looks like it uses some kind of stopper that wedges itself in the backing plate as it passes through. I did however break one of the wheel cylinder bolts trying to replace one. Figured since it was all being torn down might as well put new rear breaks and hardware on so new shoes, new hardware and new cylinders.. I will take some pictures tomorrow to give you an idea how I pulled it out so it will make it a little easier when it comes time for you to do your rears Precise. Thanks for the ideas and helping me brain storm. Question can I get a replacement bolt from someplace like Canadian Tire, or Partsource? Do I need to get one from the dealer or something for hardware such as this?

Good call. I will do as you suggested tomorrow morning and see if I cannot get it out of there. I appreciate the help, thank you.

I have been looking at that image. I cannot see the details of the end. It kind of looks like it might be threaded. Scaling the image up anymore (and this is the best one I can find) just makes it worse to see the detail.

Yea same on the passenger side as well. In fact it is the same all around on both pathfinders actually. Since the ones on the newer pathy are on their way out and rusted I am going to give them a college go tomorrow to get them out in hopes it will enlighten me on a good approach to get the cables off of the other pathfinder.... It is getting cold and dark out so will call it a night. I will grab an awl tomorrow and see about lightly tapping from the other side. As for pulling the cable through the sheathing. it is a bit larger than the hole through the backing plate so I am pretty sure that is a no go.

I am reusing the cables from my rusted out pathfinder. The time constraints to getting new cables is prohibitive I only have a few more days to get it back on the road before I am stuck vehicle less. I cannot get the new pathfinder inspected without a working parking brake and it is completely rusted out in the newer pathy. So was going to reuse the old ones until I can get an order in....However seems they are just as much a night mare to get out as the rusted ones... Thank you very much for climbing down to take a picture I appreciate it. At least I know now there are no bolts or plates that are broken off or missing.. This is a good step forward. However not sure what to do.. Can I use penetrating oil on something like that? I was hoping that someone that has done this before could tell me of the cable is threaded or not.... Would help my next step.

Looking at the images over and over I can kind of see where there SHOULD have been a plate with a bolt through where that rubber plug is. So do I just get some grips around the smaller portion entering the metal and try to twist it out? This is becoming a nightmare.

Ok here we go. This is another from the back (note that this is the rear drivers side). This should show you what I mean about the rubber stopper. That is all it is and it just covers a through hole with nothing in it. Here is a composite of the front of the drum with a left and right shot highlighting where the emergency cable comes through the rear-end. I see none of the bolts or the holes you mentioned.

I am not sure what you mean. The red arrow is pointing at a rubble plug. When I remove this there is nothing but a hole. The image most likely doesn't show it well but the plug it is pointing at is about an inch or more away from where the cable goes through the rear-end. It is the cable I cannot remove. Inside the housing (will take another image in a couple minutes) it looks like solid metal. Be right back with a photo. I need to get this off and I have no idea what I am doing. I also do not want to break them either.. So trying to be delicate. Need someone to tell me if I pull on the cable to get it out, is it threaded into the rear-end? Anyhow I will get a front image and see if that helps.

Here is another shot of the area. Slightly better than the previous.

This is what I am talking about. Finally was able to get a picture of it. I cannot figure out how to get this out of the rear-end as it passes through to get to the drum brakes on the other side. HELP!!!! I have tried pulling. I have lightly tried turning with vice-grips. There are no nuts or screws as I can tell and I tried to clean off any dirt in the way... This is what stopped me yesterday actually. Here's the image... Can someone please shed some light on how to get this off or out ... It doesn't look like the other end would pass through and pulling it gives me the impression that eventually I will break it.

Is there also a bolt on the back of the axle housing? (where the emergency brake cable passes through on the rearend/drum end of the cable) I went and bought a new brake set for the back since I have them apart anyhow. However the backing plates were taken from the box as were the studs... So kind of a setback as it appears to have been the only box in the city no matter who I call. I know it sounds stupid but I have only ever had disc brakes. I have never worked with either drum brakes nor the emergency brakes so I am completely clueless here.

Thank you

Owch. This is my kind of luck. I empathize Kingman

If I am just swapping/replacing the emergency brake cables do I need to remove the rear drums? The FSM doesn't cover it specifically and underneath when I look it is still kind of dirty. Thought I would ask before I headed out so I was more mentally prepared for the task at hand. Sorry for all the questions lately.

That must be why the local dealerships want 120 for each the left and right rear cables (drum version) and 205 for the lever (which is the only way to get the front cable) =) IM KIDDING! Am I to assume that gravity bleeding just means to have all bleeder valves open and keep filling the master cylinder with fluid until it flows from all of the valves? Do you close each valve as it starts to flow? I suspect this cannot be done on the Pathfinder ABS unit?

Excellent I will head over to Pick N Pull tomorrow and see what I can scavenge. I am trying to NOT pull it from the other pathfinder right now as I would still have to replace it all on that one later however the cost new is starting to make me reconsider that choice. I will give the wrecker a shot on the one 92 and couple of 94's they have. Thanks for the confirmation.

I am trying to figure out if the cables from either a 92 or a 94 would fit. There are no 93's at Pick N Pull.

Yea appears so. Local Nissan wants 450$ for the assembly, and the rear left/right cables.. I hope that Alkorahil can get me a better deal with shipping to Canada.. I need it pretty quick so I can get my out of province done and insurance/registration swapped. Getting desperate.

Not withstanding a request to Alkorahil for the parts. I was wondering why when I look around at other oem parts stores they only have the Right Rear cable and not the left rear-cable. I know that they are important cables but are they really worth 65$-70$ for each? Am I just not asking for the right part?

Thinking about it now. Would I need to have a different ECU or would they also be the same between the stock and power models?

Well yea the garage I will rent for a few days has hoists and high ceilings so will just re-enforce the fenders and double strap the body and hoist it.. Just need to know what electrical and mechanical I would have to disconnect to do so.. The manual itself says only that I need to disconnect the main harness (which has a couple of connection points in the front cage I think) as well as the fuel and brake lines. also need to remove the handles like emerg and shifter.

Hello everyone, I am looking to lift the body of my 1993 Pathfinder a few feet above the frame so I can get some welding done on the frame without any hinderance to access the entire frame. At this point I am thinking I will just re-enforce the entire frame while I am getting the rusted spots fixed and get it completely coated before putting it back together again. Anyhow, sorry for rambling. What I was wondering was if anyone that has done this before could tell me which harnesses I need to unplug and where they are. Again I have a FSM so even just the numbers of the harnesses to unplug would work for me. There are so many of them and just want to make sure I go straight to the ones I need to unplug and get it done. The cost of the shop to do the work will be billed out to me at 116$ a day so when I do this I just want to get in and out as fast as I possibly can.

Thanks. Thought I was going nuts as I couldn't find the category. All the way at the bottom. Story coming soon

Sorry for the dumb question but I was wondering what the correct category I would post a rebuild I am going to be doing here soon? Will be a fairly lengthy process but would like to document it as best I can for others here as it may be useful. It is a 1993 Pathfinder and I just do not want to clutter up the wrong forum. Thanks.