MrEviLDeD

Hello everyone, Found a 1993 Pathfinder to hold in place for the repairs on my other rusted out 1993 (from encouragement on the forums here I am going to weld her up and just have two working pathfinders, win-winner) With that said, should the other Pathfinder not have enough good metal to repair I was wondering what the effort would be like to take the power options from the rusted out pathy and put them into the other 93? They are the same year and they are both H vin numbers so my wonder is would all stock option pathfinders comes with all the harness connectors and such for the options? Would I need to hack into the wire harness to accommodate these options? I have an FSM for this model and year as well. Any criticism or suggestions are welcomed.

Maybe even trace some paper ones and mail them snail mail possibly? I am most interested in this. k9ser, how long of strips did you get them to cut? Looking into the resources to go this route.

Note also that the cross member has completely broken free from the frame. (is this a sub frame maybe?) The images might not completely show it has severed itself completely from the frame and is sitting on the spring/coils. What would be a good gauge of steel to use for this?

I suppose templates are something of a rarity? I mean the damage is pretty severe. I would hate to have the cross member in the wrong place etc.. If you know of a place I can get templates for the shape welding in some plat would be an option. With that said, is this the kind of thing that a template made from the driver side (when reversed) would apply to the passenger side? Otherwise I need a proper diagram and measurements. I found another 93 out of province, however getting it might cost me a bit as well it is a gamble getting there as the truck might not be as they have indicated or shown... Rawr!

My 93 Pathfinder has rusted out and I need a replacement. Unfortunately there are not any 93's. I have however found a 96 that has a problem with first gear. It is a manual and I just wondered if I could swap out the transmission from the 93 and use it in the 96? The 96 is a great deal other than the transmission problem. Thoughts?

Yea sounds like the best idea is to just take the locks in and have a locksmith do it. Ended up finding a much broader problem with my Pathfinder so this will have to take a back seat now.. I appreciate the response though. I know now that I just do not have time to fiddle with it and to let someone skilled do it Thank you!

I am aware of the thread here pinned regarding the aftermarket frame bits that can be welded in. I am currently getting a picture taken of the damage on the one side (only looked at one, was depressive enough to find this when I went to remove the rear flat). Anyhow. My first question is this. How many folks here have bought those aftermarket frame weldins from this thread here? Are they still working? Was the process getting them welded in difficult? Costly? I "can" weld but this is the kind of thing that seems outside of my skillset by any sense of the imagination. Here are three pictures of the damage. I was hoping that some folks here could have a look and tell me if it was worth purchasing the aftermarket frame bits mentioned at the link I provided above or to just scrape the Pathfinder. Just paid like 1700$ for this thing a year ago seems like a lot of waste but at the same time I do not wish to throw good money after bad. Wish I didn't love my truck so much..... (Note: I touched up one of these photos and cropped it as the sunlight was unbearable I hope that it improves the view) Pardon the blurriness of the last photo. It is like -23c out with a windchill so it was taken in a pretty quick hurry What is my next move? Or at least what are some further options?

Hello again, I was wondering what the process was on keying the door locks to match the new Ignition key that comes with a new Ignition key lock assembly? Do I need to take the Pathfinder into someone to rekey the lock or is this something I can do on my own once I have the new key? Sorry for the silly question. Matthew

Welcome to the boards. Great place and great people to be found here. I really have nothing to offer the thread except to augment the information listed by PerlNinja. I find it much easier in a manual Pathfinder to roll start from a higher gear, such as 3rd. Now do not do this if you have folks pushing as there will not be enough rotation to turn the engine at that gearing. However when ever you can roll, it helps use the weight of the vehicle to turn the engine. I was lucky, when my Pathfinder wouldn't start it was as simple as replacing the ignition switch. Good luck.

Took both of your advice and just picked up a caliper from PartSource/CT. Also picked up two new rotors. Again thanks for the prompt responses.. Cheers!

Great suggestions! So what I took away from this is that, first I should replace both rotors on the front. Second, look for a rebuilt or a good used caliper opposed to rebuilding it. Thirdly, fix only what is broken unless I have the resources or the need.. Thanks, I really appreciate the responses.

Hello everyone, I was wondering. I threw a shoe (for lack of a better term) on my Pathfinder. Really has gouged up the rotor past the point of being able to resurface so a new rotor is a given. What my question here is based on the cost from the dealer and a couple of local shops. The price on a caliper is just a little more than I have to drop on them right now but need to get the Pathfinder back on the road as it is a work truck so my questions are as follows: 1) When buying replacement brake pistons (CL28VD are not steel) can I replace the non-steel ones with a steel replacement such as listed at RockAuto Parts here. I have the FSM but it does not list the length of the piston and neither does the replacement. Can I even replace the current pistons with steel or would I need to buy the Phenolithic part? If I can replace with steel, should I? 2) When replacing a caliper and rotor like this should I pair up the work and also redo the passenger side of the Pathfinder? 3) Notwithstanding the obvious in replacing the disk brake hardware (clips, etc) are there any other parts on the caliper or bracket that I should also repair? 4) Should I just break down and rebuild all around the brakes including the rear drum brakes at the same time? I ask simply for the semantics of equal brake wear all around. 5) Are there any reputable part suppliers up here in Canada (online or otherwise) that are similar to RockAuto Parts? I would like to be able to go in and pick up or order parts and save on the cost of shipping from the USA. I have some bigger issues with the braking system I am sure. I was pretty stupid and took a great risk by simply replacing the brake shoes and not the rotor as well. In addition it was pretty obvious that the pistons were not in the best shape anymore due to the damage throwing the shoe and needed to be replaced as well. Either way at this point (and it might be from the front driver side caliper) but the fluid drops out of it in a couple pedal presses as fast as you could pour the dot-3 into the master cylinder. Trying to figure the most cost effective manner in which to get the Pathfinder back on the road. I am not faint of heart when it comes to a set of tools so though I would solicit some thoughts from the other Pathfinder owners and mechanics around here. Appreciate any input, feedback or suggestions you all might have. Matthew

Hmmm. This is a stretch but here goes. In fact it was the problem I was having that initially brought me to these awesome forums. I had just bought the Pathfinder (93, SE, 4wd VG30E). Drove it someplace, got out. Got back in tried to start and it wouldn't Checked everything. Lights would turn on, all interior gadgets worked etc as expected. I checked plug wires, coil, fuses etc... It wasn't until I had tried doing a rolling start that the problem became apparent. There was NO power going to the starting system at all, nor was there power going to the coil which could only mean one thing. Either the coil was gone, or the ignition switch had broke. After a few minutes of pulling the cowl cover from the steering wheel column the problem was almost glaring right at me. The back connector panel of the ignition switch had come loose in its fitting giving just enough room for the key to go back a bit further than it should turning the Pathfinder off. What was happening to me was each time I would then turn the key it could not turn far enough to make the proper connections in the harness and the ignition and power circuits to the engine were not getting power. Spent 15$ on a new replacement ignition switch, and in 5 minutes was back driving.. This problem you are having sound exactly like the one I had. I just hope I am wrong and it is more serious considering the amount of trial and error money you have spent isolating the problem. Good luck..

I guess it would be better for me to check the timing belt before I compression test? If there is a problem with the belt this would effect the results of the compression test correct? Sorry for all the questions.

Alright, I will also check the exhaust gaskets (thanks Precise1) If I am going disassemble the timing bits I might as well replace the belt and tensioner correct? I have heard talk about someone that sells Nissan parts and Nissan OEM I apologize for not remembering the name. Would anyone have a link to where to purchase those parts? I have looked at the Nissan parts website and WOW $. Either way I will check the compression right after I pick the wife up from work this afternoon and will post the results. Thanks for all the help everyone. Glad I found NPORA you guys/gals are great.

Might I add I have not seen any smoke being blown. I also do not see any leaks. The oil seems to be staying at the proper levels. Which would rule out a head gasket right?

Yes, sounds a lot like this. I am unable to describe the sound but I also think there is some kind of blow back or squishing (sorry lol) of air being squeezed out. It isn't as dramatic a sound as the letters will describe but it is almost like a Fffft, Fffft, Fffft... I have noticed an increasing lack of power recently as well going up inclines. Normally the truck would easily climb a hill in 3rd without much problem, now I need to gear down to second and depending on the length of the hill it will be starting to bog down near the top unless I downshift again (I am thinking this is a different problem ie the clutch disc being worn) however it is in direct result of the rough driving (rev'd easily to 7000rpm a couple of times as I downshifted to help stop the truck) The truck ran very smoothly before this incident and has progressively gotten worse. I have need to drive the vehicle and have been busy the last few days to do the proper tests such as the compression test. So I apologize for the pre-thinking phase to help understand the problems I might be looking at so I can look into those problems specifically. The Pathfinder was just purchased by me and was bought from a garage. It really was in pretty tip top shape. well as tip top as a vehicle with 420k on it. So regretfully I am unsure when the belt was changed. All in all I am pretty sure I broke something. Compression test coming soon (hopefully tomorrow). Need to pick up a light to check the timing though and I haven't gotten to do that yet..

She was red-lined for most likely 3-4 seconds. I have not see any smoke being blown. I also to not see any fluid leaks on the ground and the oil seems to be oil. IE no gas or water... I will reset the computer. In addition since posting I have read that it could be from a bad knock sensor, a bad o2 censor, dirty maf. I never thought about the timing belt. I will get a light on there as well and see where it is. Thanks for the prompt replies I appreciate it!

After the avoidance of an accident the RPM on the Pathfinder went very high. There was some swerving as well. Almost immediately after I could feel the difference in the running/driving. The truck runs rough. It didn't appear to be missing any timing strokes however the last few days I have noticed at start up it either starts fast, or needs to crank a few times (used to crank twice and start) and then starts. I have also noticed a tapping noise since up in the left rocker/valve cover. Often it will subside and quieten however when the truck accelerates you can hear the tapping increase in loudness and of course speed. I do not hear any "Knocks". I am going to get under the hood in the next couple of days to do a dry/wet compression test so I will have that data very soon. I was wondering if anyone could give me some solid places to start to isolate this problem before it gets any worse. The Haynes manual I have says for the 92+ Pathfinders that home mechanics are unable to set the timing so not sure what to do here as the costs for the dealership to perform this is way prohibitive as are most shop mechanic shops. Are there alternatives? Any thoughts or suggestions (outside of the compression test(s) which I will do asap) on what could be the problem. I am just hoping that the rings or the valves are not damaged. Thanks in advance,.

With a little more searching I located something at http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6731/kw/1993%20Nissan%20Pathfinder This seems to match out fairly well with the wiring I have seen as so far. Hope the link helps someone else as well. Now to pull the rear passenger panel and find the front amplifier. Cheers!

First I would like to take a moment to thank everyone that has not only welcomed me in some way but also taken the time to answer my onslaught of Pathfinder questions Thank you! I was wondering if anyone happened to have a wire color diagram for the connectors that connect to the stock audio amplifiers in a 1993 Pathfinder SE. As of the time of writing I have only located the one amp that is mounted behind the dash and I will locate the second amp here soon. What I was hoping to not have to do was to brute force check the lines for speaker connection to isolate the LR, RR, etc... Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone! Been driving around and things were or seemed to be operating as well as could be expected specifically as it related to fuel economy. However lately (read out as the last week) it has been going through fuel like at least twice maybe even three times as fast. I am not hard on it, I do not gun it so I do my up most best to monitor my driving style to conserve fuel.. When I start the Pathfinder you can hear the fuel pump start running however it never seems to stop running. I can smell fuel sometimes like the engine is being flooded. Is there a problem with the pump, could it be electrical I need to look at first? Is this something that happens often with a Pathfinder? Would I be best to just simply go and purchase a new fuel pump? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Thank you!

Would anyone have any links to the documentation for the import security system that was put into Pathfinders for the years 93 or 94? I have the FSM for 1994 in the form of PDF's but it seems to completely ignore any of the power lock features or even wiring diagrams except for the lock connector in the door panel. I have read a couple of sites that mention it was only added to vehicles imported to North America. I also believe I have information about programming the security system under the drivers seat to work with the stock Keyfob's even found some places that sell the new fobs. I am asking because I would like key-less access and was looking into an aftermarket, remote start, key-less entry package and have been told there might be an issue with the 93's Pathfinders built in anti theft system. If I can leverage the stock/default key-less and alarm system I then need only a remote start kit with programming key-fobs. Also as I was told in another thread that I need to isolate why my power door locks aren't working. Might as well kill as many magpies with the same rock =) I went out to the Pathfinder when it was super quiet out to do a layman's check for any sounds when the door lock switch was moved. I hear a very very very faint click in either position which sounds to be coming from behind me on the drivers side. maybe in the back driver side passenger door or further into the back. So sounds like something might be TRYING to work. Without the diagrams, location references and other information related to the security and power lock system I am unable really to continue diagnosing the problem. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

I will start going over some diagnostics tomorrow and work out the doors then and take it from there when they work. Appreciate the quick reply, thank you.