MrEviLDeD

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to install a 4 button keyless entry on a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder? There is only one switch on the door about locking the doors however it does not work. Does the 1993 have power door locks even? I guess what I am asking is if it is worth the money to pick up this keyless remote entry system for my SUV. I have come up with mixed reviews and just would like some concrete answers if possible. Thanks

I don't know if the guy at the Part Source I picked up my ignition switch from (just the switch) gave me the Canadian Tire price. They had a list price of like 45$ or something. I simply said Canadian Tire checked and said that Part Source had the part, and suddenly I got it for the Canadian Tire price.. 32$ My order of part shops is usually 1 - Canadian Tire (sorry just part of my growing up and is conditioned ), 2 - Part Source and 3 - Napa

Thanks for the responses. I never thought to check ebay. Had some issues getting online or I would have responded sooner. Again thanks everyone!

Does the A.S.C.D also depend upon the Neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal? What are the part numbers for those switches (the ones on the clutch pedal and the ones on the brake pedal) I went looking but the part returned has a connector that does not match my 93's.

Hello everyone, I just picked up on the Pathfinder technical repair manuals found here I was wondering if anyone had a manual for a 1993 Pathfinder. Seems the earliest manual listed there is a 1995. Can I just use the 1995? Should I keep looking for a 1993 one?

WOO!!! That was exactly what the problem was. Bought a new switch assembly (not key/tumble) connected everything, connected the negative battery terminal. Put the key in, Started first shot! Thank you both for your suggested and just the tolerance to allow me to ramble out my problems with the Pathfinder.

Not sure how to go about that last part. I will see how to do it later. I have pulled the ignition switch and key unit. When I started to inspect the ignition switch I noticed that the black part where the wires are connected to the switch seems to have a lot of play (not the wires but the plastic disc they are soldered to). Is this typical of an ignition switch or should this black section be tight with out any play. I would have thought the latter, It looks like it is trying to push itself out the bottom of the switch unit.

Also the resistance across the coils is unchanged regardless of the terminal used and is about 5.68k ohms.

Thank you for the welcome.. I appreciate it. I have so far pulled the distributor cap and wire and have tested it with the ohm meter. Seems to be a range between 5000k ohms and 9.2k ohms which is well below the acceptable 30k ohms on each wire and the coil wire. So I suspect there is little to nothing wrong with the distributor or the wires to the spark plugs. I do not have an extra set of hands today so I was unable to test the power at the starter. However through searching around I have seen some indications that this kind of problem could also be caused by a bad ignition switch. The key looks new, however one article suggested that a simple test is to, 1) turn the ignition key to the on position and the dash warning lights should go on. 2) turn the key to start and they should go off. An addition test is the same except to turn on the headlights and if they dim or go off completely when the key is turned to start that the ignition switch is most likely ok. When I tried this it did as it should have the first time. Pulled the keys out, thought try it again just to be sure. This time the dash warning lights did not go on until I turned the key to the start position. I am still hearing the beep-beep-beep when the key is in the start position. Soon as I get a second set of eyes I will do the headlight test just to be anal. However I am starting to think that my ignition switch could be at least a suspect in my problems.

I would like to add I was unable to do a load test on the battery. However it does return a strong 12.5 volts when tested with the volt meter.

Hi there, I have scanned briefly over the forums and didn't come up with a specific answer to my problems. First let me explain. I just purchased as-is/as-see a Green 1993 Pathfinder SE-V6 manual. This Pathfinder has a little over 420k KMS on her and is a Canadian model. When I test drove the vehicle she was very sound, transmission was very firm in terms of shifting and clutching. Everything seemed to be just fine. On the fourth day I parked the Pathfinder for a couple of hours, went out to start her up and nothing. I can hear relay clicking under the dash over the fuse panel. There appears to be ample amount of power for lights, windows, accessories etc however not to turn over the engine. In addition to the clicking sounds by the fuse box I have had a friend turn the key while under the hood to hear only clicking coming from what seems to be three relays mounted on the passenger side wheel well (front). I do not hear any clicking sounds at the starter (unless it is being masked by the sounds of the relays clicking). I do not hear any spinning. Nothing at all. I do however hear the fuel pump turning on each time the ignition key is turned. When I first had this problem they trued to boost the Pathfinder using an Eliminator product and it did not work. When AMA came their boost also did not work. IE there was no change in behavior when the key was turned. After returning home with the Pathfinder I attempted a rolling start down a hill (like a fool I initially tried 1st gear, and popped the clutch (with the key on) nothing. While still rolling down the bulk of the hill I attempted to pop the clutch while in second gear and still nothing. Near the end I attempted to use 3rd gear and still nothing. I would like to add that before the rolling start when I would turn the ignition key to the on position there was no sounds other than the clicking. Since having attempted a rolling start when I turn the ignition key to the on position there is a short, steady beep that can be heard. Beep-beep-beep-beep. This is different than the door open chime or any other sounds I have heard this truck make. I own a Haynes Manual for this model and year of truck and have started to work back on their recommended ignition system check list however I have ran up against a question that is not answered in the manual. When testing the resistance across the coil, Which of the two terminals in the clip is the negative lead? The test suggests that I test from the high tension terminal (this is the one leading to the distributor) and says to test with the negative terminal. My problem is that I get a reading on either terminal. Is this normal? The returned value on both terminals while my ohm meters other lead is touching the high tension terminal seems to be in acceptable ranges but should both terminals return a resistance value? Does this indicate my coil is bad? I am going to reconnect the coil now and continue with the remaining suggested tests from the manual I just wanted to touch base with someone to see if I have some how early on isolated my potential problem so I do not have to continue breaking things down to check. Sorry for my running on, and I hope that I have described my problems as best as possible. One final question. Should I just go straight to the ECU and get it to return to me the list of error codes it has stored? Should I continue my step-by-step testing of the ignition system? It has been 20 years since owning a vehicle at all and my backyard skills are quite lacking but I am not faint of heart with a set of tools or getting dirty. Thanks. (Great forum btw I am very glad I stumbled across it)