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MrEviLDeD

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Everything posted by MrEviLDeD

  1. Another issue that has plagued me in the past was the ignition switch. On two separate occasions and two different pathfinders the key would turn on. It would appear to turn everything on except all I would get was a click and sometimes nothing. What had happened on both was the backing plate on the ignition switch had come loose and was no longer making proper contact on all contacts for one and had shifted slightly so it could not reach the final ignition sequence on the other to actually strike the starter. Replaced one and rebuilt the other and both pathfinders fired right up. Anyhow just thought I would mention it to add to the other advice offered. Cheers!
  2. Hey everyone! I hope this missive finds everyone as well as possible! My fan clutch has seized. I am going to replace it no real difficulty there so not asking about how to or what to. Just got to wondering what would cause one to break down. Thought I would ask. Make sure that I did not do anything wrong when cleaning up and finishing everything off from the timing belt change I did earlier in the year. If it was I would like to try to avoid repeating it when putting in the replacement fan clutch Also are they something someone like me can rebuild?
  3. Please check the ignition switch. It wont hurt and could very well be the problem. Those devices are all tethered to the ignition switch, if there are not full connections being made then some devices will not work. I am not saying there is anything wrong with the key, what I am suggesting is that the black plastic connector on the back of the ignition switch itself is loose it will be opened when the key is inserted into the key slot and some of the devices cannot get any current/voltage. I am repeating myself here because this is the kind of thing that happened to me. Drove me nuts for about a month as it was so intermittent.. Eventually I just worked back to the ignition switch. Moment I replaced it with a new one. Never had a problem since... What finally broke it down for me was when the Pathy wouldnt start.. In my case the black plastic part on the ignition switch has turned slightly in the housing (pushed past the tongs holding it in place.... And the truck just couldn't spin the ignition switch enough anymore to make the starter connection... Please at least check it and rule it out maybe?
  4. This also sounds like a problem I had with the green Pathy. drove me nuts.. It would usually start, but sometimes the lights would work, sometimes they wouldn't, other times the radio wouldn't power up. I never tried to make a connection with the wipers though. What it ended up turning out being was the ignition switch. the back had come out just enough that allowed the key to sometimes get pushed in too far and cause some of the connections not to be made when the key was turned to the on position. It wouldn't hurt to have a look maybe? I do not remember the clicking of the relay however if a connection was being made, broke, made broke in the ignition switch it would most likely have an effect on the fuel pump and/or starter relay under the hood no? (the trigger was when he said that sometimes it wont start at all) anyhow just thought I would toss this in here.. Drove me nuts for a good couple days trying to figure it out. Soon as I replaced it with a new one. worked like a charm.
  5. Thank you for the replies. I realized that the two torque wrenches seem to have good numbers are either end, so good low lb-in on the smaller, and good high 260 ft-lb on the larger. however in the middle (where the high of the low and the low of the high should overlap. there is about 25-30 ft-lb gap.. Can I dial my larger down lower than the marks and expect it to torque accordingly? I know the lock ring still locked in increments.. Pardon the silly question. Trying to avoid a third torque wrench to cover the gap between my other two of that makes sense.
  6. This is a late model 93 I believe if that is of any help. Not sure it has a CEL though and if it does it has never gone off that I have seen. Sorry for the delay. Took a little ill physically. I apologize. I have since done the timing as the FSM and you guys have suggested. When warm, after idle has dropped and the temp is at normal (about middle on the dash as mine never goes higher than a little before the middle mark in the dash. Timing marks appear to be lined up as well as could be but she sounds like she is running a little rough.. With that said I noticed that I have a couple of leaks in my exaust one before the muffler and one after and wondered (note that it is the engine that sound rough, it isn't loud like it isn't using the muffler) if those leaks could cause the newly timed engine to lose a little bit of performance and sound like it is running kind of rough.. Wish I could describe the sound better. Following up, how would I know that the engine was far advanced? Could I have this 180 degrees (lack of a better way to describe it)? still in the right place but far enough out of range to still work? I am at a complete loss here.. It is rather cold so I am not going to pull the seat but I guess I should do this finally just to see what the ECU is saying to help diagnos what might be wrong. Again sorry for disappearing for a few days. Feeling better.
  7. At first I was wondering what you were talking about describing the timing process. Lol found it. Even though I have had the manual for a bit now I am still getting used to where it put information. Thanks for pointing that out. With that said, is there a reason I should pull the passenger seat and run the diagnostic tests from the CPU? I have been trying to avoid that process unless there was a dramatic problem? Sorry for being lazy, or hesitant.
  8. Yea I considered taking the wire from the other Pathy. My problem is it is out of town on the farm so its a good 2 hour drive out of town and I was wheel-less I will check the boot tomorrow. As well as search for any vacuum hoses that may have come off or loose. Not sure how I missed the air release bolt. I will try to bleed it properly tomorrow. Thanks for everything guys. I appreciate it very very much!
  9. Neglected to answer on the bleeding of the coolant. I am unable to find the air release bolt and the image in the FSM isn't very helpful. So what I did was fill the radiator until it stopped taking water. which was about 8 liters (2 gallons) and it topped right up. I then ran the engine to warm it up with the cap off until I saw some water flowing past the cap. Put the cap back on and added some coolant to the overflow so the system could burp out any air and pull back in any coolant it needed. Where is the air release plug located I can opening tomorrow and top up the coolant.
  10. I will have a double check tomorrow morning. I did not lose the key. I was surprised when I saw this part circle part and at first thought that it must have come from the water pump innards. However thankfully I was still turning the engine with the ratchet and saw immediately that the key had come out. I cleaned the area put it back in then slid on the pulley. Proceeded to torque the bolt to FSM spect ft-lb. So the key is in fact in there and the crank bolt was not over torqued. I wonder if maybe plug #6 boot is not completely making a fully connection with the plug. It is very loose when I put it back on so maybe that tat-tat-tat could be a spark jump under the boot? Is that possible? It is really hard to get in there properly, and that plug was a complete pain to get out and put back in, very very awkward. That is one thing that comes to mind. As for being far advanced. Would the timing marks still be in the right place if it was? Should I turn the rotor a few more teeth? However one thing you said above stands out is that it smells very lean but I really have no other setting in terms of timing that the truck runs at all. I put a glass of water on the intake today. The glass shifted slightly but not a single ripple.. I was impressed actually so I have done at least some things right not to just get that last little tweaks out. I cannot afford new set of plug wires so hopefully there isnt much trouble getting the #6 boot back on so it clips on like the others did. Note: the timing does not stay right on the line it seems to jump back and forth slightly. Is that common as well?
  11. Ok. Even when I want to I can never give up Death will be so peaceful Just saying! Update. Went back out and just kept turning the dizzy rotor one tooth to clockwise until I got her back on the scale. I believe this is where I had it once before but then thought I could squeeze an extra tooth to get a better adjustable range on the dizzy itself. With that said. Finally got the belts back on (all of them) The timing changed again (is this common?) So pulled the timing light back out again and set it back to 15 btdc. Sounds good so far with one exception.. if you wait long enough (and I do not remember hearing this before) but every so often, not on a pattern as best I can tell you can hear this. tat-tat-tat and then it goes quiet again. I stress that its not like every minute or some cycle just every now and then seemingly random you can hear this faint, tat-tat-tat.. Should I be worried? Is there something I should have a look at? I may have messed up on the thermostat. Hopefully it will dry over night and I can tell for sure but the lower radiator hose pipe seemed a little wet. With that said I spilled a bit when filling the rad by accident.
  12. I wonder if I can get a video that will demonstrate the noise I am hearing in low idle. I am so lost right now. Sorry for complaining.
  13. Ok, finally got the alt/fan assemblies back in and belted. However I did the turn the distributor suggestion. so did my best to turn it a single tooth. harder than it sounds actually. When I put it back in the truck started sounded smooth.. so I set the timing to the the 4th mark 0, 5, 10 ,15 and it sounded good. Then the idle kicked down and it moved to the second mark when I turned the dizzy to bring it back up to the 15 it started to sound like something was knocking on the drivers side.. Not sure if its a ping or a knock. either way I turned everything off and came in.. This is starting to get me down. Seems I am going to have to take it ALL down and apart again and start all over..
  14. 7 marks here as well. I wasnt able to get it all done today. Had a pita of a time with the thermostat. Of course took me a few times to realize there were marking on the hosing and the thermostat cover.... Tomorrow I will get water in her and start messing with the rotor/dizzy. Thanks again guys for the help and support.
  15. Ok, Noticed that there is more thread on one end than the other on these studs. Would it be safe to assume that the longer threaded area goes into the water pump? Short side is for the nuts holding the fan/clutch assembly on?
  16. When it was in the center of the holddown slot it was way off in terms of the marks. It was at least 1" to 1.5" past the last timing mark. I had not loosened the dizzy at all until after the belt was back on. I only turned it because it was way off. I am thinking that it is off a tooth as well. Just a little nervous about pulling it up, and turning it I had typed a big reply in a post-edit.. it timed out and I lost it all.. lol Slartibartfast Just to make sure I understood what you suggested. I remove the hold down, pull up the dizzy until it frees from the gear then turn it clockwise one tooth? adamzanThat was the third marker in which I determined TDC. I guess that is why I have been so concerned with doing it wrong. Counts are right though. cannot check any more times 40 teeth between cam dimples, 43 teeth between drivers size cam and the crank gear dimples. I used a length of coat hanger to make sure the cylinder was at its highest point in the stroke. Along with making sure the rotor was pointing at the #1 plug. My goal would be and is to get the dizzy back to the middle of the holddown slot and the timing be at 15 btdc which should be the 5th timing mark right? I will do as you both suggested first thing tomorrow so trying ask as much as I can now as most folks are working during the day and the responses do not come in until long after it gets too dark to work Not complaining just how it is. So defending my incessant need to a million questions. Sometimes more than once. So turning the dizzy the one tooth in the opposite direction I was turning the dizzy should put me back in place to be able to properly adjust the timing? I am taking for granted that the dizzy should turn enough to cover the first timing mark through to the last timing mark as a range, Would that be also a fair assumption?
  17. List could I have done the timing on the exhaust stoke opposed to the compression? I am at a complete loss. All the information is for the vg33 and clearly that application for the most part does not apply. the #1 plug etc is located in a different location than the vg30 and the balancer is different so the marks do not apply. I apologize for the barrage of questions.
  18. Ok, 2 steps back Realized that was what the 4 studs were that came with the water pump. I wasnt sure what they were for. know I know. My question is how to you put them in without harming the threads? Do you simple finger tighten them into the water pump and then just tighten the nuts? Sorry for the stupid questions above. Frustration took hold
  19. I redid the tension again before putting the lower cover on. when I ran the engine with the cover off the belt between the crank and the passenger side cam seems floppy so added just a little more tension. With that said if it isnt one thing it is another.. Seems I have misplaced or lost the bolts (i have the nuts) for the fan/cluck/pulley.. so cannot go any further. No idea where they could have gotten two. I know they are 10mm. The FSM of course does not have any details on the fan/clutch to water pump. Completely lost.. not to mention the problem with the timing. One step forward 3 steps back
  20. Here is a picture of the timing marks and the keyway. If anyone can tell if I have it correct that would be great. The red arrow is furthest to the left I can get the timing to change rotating the distributor. Clearly I have done something wrong.
  21. Checked some images online best I could and appears that I have the marks correct against the keyway. So at a lost for why I cannot adjust the timing more.
  22. Does anyone have a picture of their harmonic balancer showing the keyway and the marks? maybe somehow I did miss it by a single bolt rotation? it is all I can think of.
  23. Ok I am going to put this here instead of starting another thread. Ok the lower timing belt cover is back on. the harmonic balancer is on. However I am having a bit of a problem. I know without any doubt that when I switched out the balancer pulley I put them back on exactly the way they came of including matching the keyway. So very little chance that I did it wrong. Ironically when I went out today guess the engine stopped close to tdc on cylinder 1 as the lines actually lined back up.. Checked four more times 40 teeth between cam sprocket dimples and 43 teeth between drivers side cam and the crank gear dimple.. So seems that I have it as correct as I could get.. With that said when I pulled out the timing light the lines are WAY off. I was able to turn the distributor counter clock wise and got the timing mark on the balancer to line up with the 3rd mark from the right hand side.. so I guess that would be the 5th line from the left going clockwise. the engine seems to be idling and revving up nice however it bothers me that I cannot adjust the timing any further back to get to 0 tdc. I know the engine should be 15 degrees (is it 18?) btdc.. so am I close? I do not want to go any further putting things back together in case I have to redo it all again. Please any immediate help on this would be appreciated. Like shouldnt I be able toget the timing marks to line up at 0 degrees tdc? like why can I not move the distributor enough to bring it back. it will go way over but will not retard(is that the correct term) back to 0 tdc... I am so confused right now.
  24. Hey everyone, I have replaced the balancer pulley. I was sure to mark it and put it back in exactly the same position relative to the keyway. However a few places I have read talk about there being rubber used or something to bind the pulley to the balancer. My question is this. Do I need that rubber? Will the balancer be off now because I do not have it? The only other question would be what the torque specification would be for the 6 pulley bolts that connect to the harmonic balancer. I am unable to find that spec in the FSM.

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