MrEviLDeD

Got it thanks! Seems that this might have been a great start. Following is an image of the mess that was in there.. It was almost completely full. Took an extra precaution and cleaned out the resistor block as well as it was pretty dirty. Again thanks for the heads up here. Appreciate it. Now hopefully the fishy smell is gone. Cheers!

Looking now. Thank you very much! This is the one you are speaking of correct?

I will make sure to check here first. In fact I will do that this afternoon (thank you.) Is it easy to clean out? I have not looked for it in the Service manual yet. Do I have to remove anything other than the glovebox to access the airbox? Will I need to remove the airbox as well. I went looking on the net for some threads (as well as here) as you suggested however I am looking for the wrong thing as only the Cone and airbox in the engine compartment seem to come up in any searches. Appreciate the response. Thank you.

I have looked around online and most inroads seem to indicate that I have an antifreeze leak someplace. Now, notwithstanding, someone could have put a fish in there someplace With my poor sense of humor behind us for now, what would be the best places to look for this issue? Would this be a heater core problem? There was a couple of Nissan posts I discarded that suggested it might be transmission smell.. Even my wife when I asked her suggested that it smelt like anti-freeze. For me I remember it smelling more sweet that fishy. <shrug> Appreciate any suggestions on where to start to root this one out. -Matthew

This similar problem has happened to me. For me I found it was a bad MAF connector. I have since fixed it and cleaned the MAF (procedure found online here I believe) but when it would happen I would need only open the hood and very lightly tap on the connector and everything picked right up. Not saying this is the same problem you are having however it might be based on the symptoms. Easy to rule out by checking the MAF connector. Good luck.

Well, jacked her up. Pulled the wheels. Neither side seemed to be seized at all. I had my son press the brake when the drums were off and the cylinders seem to be doing their job. On the driver side rear the adjustment wheel seemed to be extended about 1/4" where the passenger side seemed to not be extended at all. Could this be part of the problem? I adjusted both until there was some friction on the drum when I put it back on. All in all everything seemed to be as expected under the drum so not sure what else to look at. Both sides stopped the wheels moving when the emergency brake was pulled. Both wheels stopped when the brake pedal was pressed. They seem to function properly on the road as well. The pedal seems a little tighter than it was before I did the adjustments. All I did was extend each of the adjusters a couple clicks at a time until they seems to be about the same distance from the drum when I put them on. <shrug> Thanks for the information guys I appreciate it.

Just about to head out and under the truck now. The e-brake does pull pretty high so this will be my first thing to look at. Next I will look for the ridge on the drum. Still not exactly sure how I would fix this problem though. I can re-adjust the emergency brake however not sure how to set the actual pads. Would/could this have something to do with a bad auto adjuster or just my lack of experience when I put everything back together and setting them properly? Do I have to adjust the wheel cylinder somehow? Do I just adjust the auto-adjuster? Hoping I do not need new drums. Again sorry for the silly questions. Never really had any experience with brakes outside of replacing disc shoes. As always any insight would be appreciated greatly. Matthew

So, apply the brakes when jacked up and spinning I replaced the brakes on the back when I initially started the repairs. I know for sure the emergency brake works so its pulling at least the lever properly. I will take a better look. Going to jack it up tomorrow and have a look just not sure what I am looking for except for. My expectation when I hear seized is that they do not work and are either stuck open or closed. Having the emergency brake work seems to change my understanding of, seized. I will pull the drums tomorrow, jack it up and have a look. Thanks for the clue, I will make sure to check to see if they engage when the normal foot brake is applied. Something I took for granted originally. Cheers!

Hey everyone, Pardon the stupid question but what would be the best way to test this? The truck seems to roll properly. I will admit I haven't jacked up the back end and spun the wheels yet. The truck rolls fine, the emergency brake seems to operate correctly. What could they have meant at CT when they informed me that the rear drums are seized. I guess my next and only step would be to jack up the rear end (both tires off the ground) and spin them? Should they spin with any friction or just plain open spin? Any kick in the head here would be appreciated. Matthew

Sorry for bumping this post. I was wondering would this happen if the rear brakes were in some way seized? I guess what I am asking is if it is shoes can it be the rear shoes that cause this issues with the fluid being low? I will be honest I have to change the front ones however when I took the pathfinder in for tires the fellows at CT mentioned that my rear brakes were seized. It wasn't until after they did the tires that I noticed the light (I know that it has nothing to do with the tire replacement or their skills) I just wonder if that could cause my lowered brake fluid? Also could the fluid be getting burned off by the brake heat in the rear drums if they are seized? Just trying to get an idea of the full problem before I start taking stuff apart... Thanks for this thread and again my apologies for bumping such an old post.

Yes, it has the daylight running lights. I thought at at first. However when I went under the hood the noise could be heard from the other side of the firewall not from the panel where the module is. It hasn't happened in a while so its good for now. When it happens next I might just start taking the dash apart to locate it. I am hoping that I can access the sound from the removal of the glove box as that is where it sounds like its coming from when it does happen. With that said I will keep my eyes out for a couple of replacement modules just in case. Thanks for the idea.

Appreciate the responses. yea the noise has appeared since I bought this one. I have kind of dug around to see if I could figure out where it was but what it drew down to was that it isn't happening in the engine compartment. (Update: today when I got in the passenger side head light was out. Seems there is some loose wiring going on. The connection seems good but one of the head light wires appears to have a break in it someplace. When it goes out the default running lights do not come on even) so I suspect that it has something to do with this circuit as mentioned above. Now to just start pulling fuses (thanks for the advice there) to see what causes it to stop. Everything under the dash on this pathfinder looks like it is stock Even had the stock radio in it still. I believe the fellow I bought it from bought it from the first owner who owned it her whole life) so nothing really has been modified except the fuel lines The second owner put rubber lines in her.. <shrug> I will do as suggested and get a friend to drive while I am in the back. The tire carrier on both of my pathfinders are inside the hatch. I have the jack tightened in its housing so shouldn't be that. I will get under tomorrow and have a look at the exhaust connections. Thanks everyone!

Hey everyone! Back this time I think and time to get back to this Pathfinder. Health and personal issues kept me out of the game for the last year and some. Anyhow you're all warned.. IM BACK!.. Just kidding.. Anyhow. I have some questions for you guru's.. 1) When the head lights are off I hear a buzzing, humming sound coming from inside the dash board (Note it sounds like it is coming from behind the dash on the passenger side.) When I turn the head lights on the noise stops. What could this be? It only happens intermittently and when it does happen it is directly tied to the lights. When I turn them on the noise stops, when I turn the off the noise starts. I cannot locate a reason so any suggestions here would be very much appreciated. 2) When going over bumps or ridges in the road it sounds like something is knocking in the back of the Pathy. Could this be the body-to-frame rubber? Could this be cause by the springs? The shocks were replaced last year as some would remember the old one completely breaking off. Sounds like something is loose and knocking around however I cannot repeat the problem while not driving and in that I am unable to hear for myself where the knocking if coming from. Its time to finally get this Pathy on the road as well as my sorry butt driving it. So look for another count down soon as I can get her in for the Out of Province inspection done again. If all goes well there wont be a count down and it will go in and come out certified. Either way if it doesn't then I will document my progress again with some better videos and images dealing specifically with the work at hand unlike the last time. Cheers everyone! Keep your 4 wheels on the road! Matthew

^-- Had completely forgotten that I had asked and solved this question. Thank you for reminding me that Alkorahil had answered me in private message.. I apologize for clogging up the forums.. Cheers. (Hint: Squaretooth. )

Seems that the Prod.M/Y is 0493 on this pathfinder. How can I tell through FAST if it is a rounded or squared tooth?

Nah it's good. I appreciate the effort. Had I known the month and year off hand would have made is simple. I will have a peek myself tomorrow. Again thank you for making the effort. Right now I need to focus on the process of replacing the center link and idler arm (idler arm looks pretty simple) not so sure about the center link. Cheers.

Heh, well I meant without having to look. Seems there is a bunch to take off just to look. I will have to check what month as I am not sure. Thanks for the information.

Is there a way to determine if my 93 Pathfinder has rounded tooth or square toothed timing belt?

I have a FSM for the 1993 in hard copy. I do not have access to some of the equipment that is suggested and was looking for a good instruction on the "tape measure" or "string" methods as it directly related to a pathfinder. I had a link that was pretty good but it went dead so I thought I would ask here. I will go through the manual again. Thanks.

Sorry for bothering everyone. I was wondering if anyone had a link or links to good information on performing my own Wheel Alignment for a 93' Pathfinder? I tried the search but nothing stood out specifically. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

I did run a couple of lines and tried to to a 0-toe of my own, but it was quick and weather wasn't the greatest. So, yea and no on the alignment after, leaning more towards the not so much The shocks were in good condition when I pulled everything apart it was why I put them back in opposed to getting new ones. I will put shocks on the list. I hope to be out there this wednesday (tuesday if the stars align) and will check over everything right back to the CV axle bolts.

Everything except the sway bar and or bushings were replaced. Both CV Axles, wheel bearings both sides (inner and outer w/races), upper and lower balljoints, inner/outter tierod engs and centers. It should for the most part be pretty tight upfront. Say you were driving and you drove over a slightly sunken in manhole cover. When I go over it, it feels like that tire "slips" and is almost wobbly but not wobbly, feels funny driving, but then straightens out and seems same same.. but it is kind of like the feeling of almost slipping on a floor but not.

Hey everyone. Haven't been around due to some injuries from an accident. It kind of stopped my progress pretty dead on. With that said its time to get back to the few things left on the list and get it back on the road. Having sat there now for a while. I took it for a quick little test drive and have a few things that stood out. First, feels really strange in the front end. It will make some chirping when the wheels are turned very tight like metal is being stressed. Also it feels like the wheel give in a little when I made an fast turn almost like they were moving a little. When I bought and installed the ball joints. The lower ones did not come with a grease hole and I assumed they were sealed and did not need grease. Did I get this one wrong? Because it would almost feel like the ball joint was moving enough to let the wheel move. (I haven't had it off the ground yet.. tomorrow maybe) Anyhow. My first stupid question was should that balljoint have been greased? The top one was done until it slightly bulged once it was set down... Could this feeling like the wheel moving/giving be from the tie-rods? These were also greased properly. I know that one of the wheel bearings wasn't seated as I had to do it by hand (before getting the socket to do it with the torque wrench). The other side was done with the torque wrench correctly. This wouldn't allow it to feel like the wheel was giving right? Just give the wheel some play when driving, like a wobble right? Anyhow, for those that know me. IM BAACK!! (I will update the old thread soon as I get back) I still have fuel lines, valve cover/plenum, and rear oil seal left now that I am feeling better.

Low idle and stalling issue started back up again today. I believe it is as suggested the ground wire to the MAF. I went out with a loonie and tapped the connecter a couple of times and the idle jumped right back up to normal. Thanks!

It was hard for me getting in and out of the Mazda 3. Time to loose some weight