Manik

Oh, I added a quart of castrol 20w50 to the oil recycling system under the hood... DOH! Bubba.....[emoji481]

Need to pull mine off and straighten it out. It was bent when I bought it 9+ years ago. May just rebuild it and incorporate a Gerry can. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Right on!! Welcome from Texas!! I think yours is the first I've seen in a long time with the factory bull bar like mine. I love it, in fact my new front bumper will be built with that bar as a "centerpiece". It will be built for a winch though. The rear bumper is to be built first as I need a receiver and am not about to drop a Benjamin on one. Cheaper to build a hella stout bumper with it built in. Sorry for the ramblin'... Welcome again. Bubba.....[emoji481]

That'd be cool, thanks Pav. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Will have to check on it for sure, but, now the lights off, but, issue hasn't been forgotten. Relocation kit huh, hmm, anyone have a part number by chance? Naa, I can just look it up on the good ol' interweb. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Ok, so here's the weird thing, after the light came on and I posted this, the light went out all by its lonesome. That's the first time that light has ever come on and hopefully the last::crossing fingers:: Not holding my breath though. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

On my way to work this morning the CEL light came on on me pathy. I waited til lunch and checked the codes and it tossed out a code 34, knock sensor code. Is this an issue that I can get away with not not dealing with it right now? Generally, I think it can wait, aside from the pesky CEL light that is on, I have yet to notice a change in driveability. Any thoughts? Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Just found this online: http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/88-9495pthqust/ The CEL came on on my way to work this morning. Used this thread to diagnose the issue, but, this site to define the code. The code that is being "tossed" is a 34, happens to be a knock sensor, not gonna worry about it til it becomes an issue. The question is, will it? I'm unsure, but, guess I'll find out. Any other clues? Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

That looks like a good deal on the links. I paid more than that for mine, but, their from whiteline racing. I found them on amazon. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

There are 2 per arm, I replaced the 4 lower link bushings and the issue was gone. There are a total of 8, 4 upper and 4 lower, plus the 2 in the panhard bar, so 10 in all, but usually the lower links are gone before the others 'cause they get abused more. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Pan arm isn't the issue, check the lower links on the rear end. They're called trailing arms and are forward of the coil springs. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yup! That works beautifully! Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Excellent thread!! I'm subscribed! Possibly addicted?! I was thinking of doing a GM 5.3 swap later, but, keep us posted, this might change that. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks awesome!! Hope to do that to my 95 someday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, I had that on my 95 when I purchased it 10+ years ago. Corrected it soon thereafter. My diesel truck does it, but, that's something on it that can't be corrected and I've come to terms with that. [emoji481] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had an issue getting my crank gear off at on point, it was seized to the crank. I wound up drilling a 1/4 inch hole just above the keyway slot and with a little persuasion with a hammer and chisel got it off without damaging the crank. Not really recommended, but, had no choice at the time. Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, it works better than PB Blaster or WD-40 as a penetrating oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Believe me I understand your frustration and your wife's as well. I went through that with mine when I was installing the second engine due to one of my kids severely overheating it. Still have the original, the second and number three is in it running like a champ. Just have to persevere and get it right. My wife threatened to have mine hauled off several times, but, it's running, driving and again a functional part of the family. If your having issues with the "washboard road effect" I'd also check to make sure that your tires aren't abnormally worn and in balance. There hasn't been any mention of it, but, that really could be a contributing factor. Shocks as well, if they're shot and wheels/tires are out of balance or abnormally worn, you'll have that issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Years of having truck as "man toys" has taught me one thing, their gonna nickel and dime you, but, what toys don't. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ground on clean bare steel, is what I meant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just disconnect the negative battery cable, turn your lights and ignition switch to the run position for a minute. That will take care of any residual charge that might remain in the electrical system. Turn it all back to the off position then your free to weld. Just be sure that your ground clamp is close to the area your welding and clean, bare steel. You won't have any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like I'd mentioned, you should be able to lower the latch a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's on the list to get "built". I'll keep it I mind though... Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The wobble on mine was coming from the rear. It was obvious because at cruise if I went down a gear and throttled it heavy, I could watch the backside shift to the right. Oh yea! Then offending components were the rear trailing arm bushings. Replace all four with poly bushing and this resolved that issue. ::Git"R"Done:: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, grease or wd won't last long at all on that bracket. Not enough surface area on the latch or the bracket for anything to stick for any length of time. What I would do and as I recall, I had a similar issue on my '95. I adjusted the hood latch assembly down to where the hood is just under to fenders then adjust your stops on either side of the hood. That should stop the shake and hopefully the squeak as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk