Karmann

Love the Guinness books of world records, I think you ought to be in one for "most thought put into a headlight upgrade."

Nope. Only rear LSD and a transfer case lock (automatic when you slip the lever into 4x4)

Front and rear R50 shocks are NOT universal. Fronts are struts and have limited availability (Kyb gr-2s are the best) and the tears are standard shocks. I have Bilstein 4600s in stock length with my OME lift and love them. Go to 4x4parts.com for extended length Bilstein 5100s. (Excellent shock, smooth ride).

Just aesthetic, I'm still not sure how I feel about them for my pathy...

Where did you source your clear corners?

It bothers me too, but let's give the guy a break eh? He's clearly had something unfortunate happen to him, and he gets his point across. (The same can't be said for other members on here hahaha jk )

Seems repairable, and sorry to hear about the impact. Of course I think us car50 owners are lucky, because in more major accidents the unibody absorbs the impact and keeps it from transferring to you (like a lot of framed vehicles do) though with the negative that it's less easily repaired than a frame. Good to hear you're ok, and that should be no issue.

Thank you so much, and I do remember that conversation quite well. Glad to have helped, and welcome to the forum!

Welcome and use the IMG link code if you're using photobucket. Also thanks for using my picture as your profile

As others have said, get the screw looked at on the specific vehicle you're looking at, find a low mileage example, and it should be extremely reliable for you as long as you keep up on maintenance. For your purposes you could buy the QX-4 and have a nice ride, but if you're looking for a bit better mpg, look for a pathfinder with the part time transfer case, as you can install manual hubs and get better mpg/less wear.

I'm interested too, though I was thinking more along the lines of the Xosel racks for Xterras. I think on my factory rack there may be a somewhat protected area underneath the wind deflector which hold the mounts for the rack, where I may be able to run wires. I have no proof of this of course, just a theory haha

Wow that's really interesting! Why have a switch with something you could do automatically? Odd, but neat, hope it all works out.

Thank you my build on ExPo under the name of Allof75 is a lot more extensive if you're curious, and I'm jdm_offroad on Instagram. But yes with the 4600 Bilsteins in the rear I'm in hog heaven as far as ride quality. Highly recommended, and in my case no camber bolts needed.

For your purposes I would suggest the Old Man Emu setup with an HDPE 1" spacer from Fleurys up front. That's what I have and I love it- excellent stance, perfect smooth ride with no 'top-out' like the AC lift does. The rear springs are much heavier duty than factory, and I'm certain it would have no trouble towing. On top of that, despite the higher center of gravity, it handles better than stock! I find myself taking off ramps a good 10-15mph faster than I realize. I can't recommend them enough, especially for daily-driver duty (which is what I do). I have an 02 SE as well. When first installed- (they've settled since then) Mind you, I have 245/75r16s which translate to 30.5" tires, whereas your size is roughly a 29". But yours shouldn't look too hokey-pokey with the 1.75" lift the OME nets.

Not a WD expert by any means, but most factory manuals don't suggest going into water over the hubs. (IE the center of your wheels) In my R50 I've been past this level and about 3/4 up the tire without difficulty, but again, it's more of a guessing game the closer you get to your intake. The hubs are usually the safest bet.

I did about 4 solid coats, but it's alright, I'm excited for getting them 'coated I still have my grille plastidipped, and I think it's the perfect application for it, just not wheels I guess.

Possibly, or maybe to showcase the new motor? Either way, it's about as random as the changes to the steering wheels throughout the years.

Yeah I did, and then I quietly peeled it off. Since the plasti started to peel after one very mild off road trip, I didn't want anything that fragile and took it off. Next set of tires, maybe I'll powdercoat them gunmetal grey.

Let's play another installment of the "guess that noise game." This week's contestant is me, and when I go over larger bumps on the passenger side of the car, there is a mezzo-forte (medium loud) "THUNK" noise that occurs from the rear end. I don't feel it in the steering etc but it's definitely audible. I've gone through my trunk, and nothing makes that noise there. It just started making the noise after my trip to Joshua Tree NP, and some washboard experience probably aggravated it. I crawled under the truck this morning, and looked at all the bushings. They all seem to be in tact, but my upper trailing arms noticeably wiggle when rocked back and forth, especially the passenger side one. Is this normal? Their bushings appear to be in tact as well, but maybe not? Thanks

Should be no issue, I had that size on stock suspension for a while with no issues, after my quick rubbing solution

I think as soon as the 3.5 was the only engine choice, they stopped placing the dual badge on there.

I do like that, though so are the hexo-mats and with a lifetime warranty

Mine is an 02 SE, and as such the badge I removed only said "SE." Because that year the 3.5 was the only engine option, hence no need to badge. And yes, mine is part of the sport group SE package with that Xterra style rack, 6 spoke wheels, two tone interior, and no wind deflector. No sunroof (bummer). I added the 4wd badge off of a junkyard Isuzu. PS- thanks for the compliments!

If some of you remember, one of the first things I did was take my front mudflaps off, to improve clearance etc. Well, what I didn't tell you was that shortly thereafter, I put them back on, as I thought it was rather dorky looking with just the rears on. A couple of weekends ago, with too much time on my hands, I decided to start a small project on my pathfinder- removing those rear molded-in mudflaps and yet retaining the original flare itself, as I'm not really a fan of the flareless look, and my paint was discolored underneath. Anyway, through a process of hacking, sanding, bondoing, sanding, primering, sanding and then painting here's the result: Matches the front From the rear Materials used: DIY Bondo Kit Duplicolor Color-Match Silver Mist Metallic paint Duplicolor Clear Coat Duplicolor Automotive Primer 600 and 100 grit sandpaper Several hours Hope you enjoy, it was a fun little mod, and I am so happy it makes it look factory.

So, may I ask, what exactly does that switch do?