Karmann

In my experience it's shock length. My OME coils achieve their lift by higher spring rate and thicker coils, not extended length. In terms of drop, I believe without the shocks and sway you coil literally "droop" them out. Control arms are a factor as well.

Changed the oil over the weekend: Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w-30, with Mobil 1 filter (highest rated). The oil/filter combo is rated well, and I get the oil in 6qt packets from Sams Club. Now after my debacle with the mechanic, I wasn't able to make it to the alignment shop this weekend thanks to my ****head friends, so that's on the agenda for this weekend. As well as figuring out what's going on with the rear end, as it feels like it crabs around corners somewhat.... takes moving out of driveways or across gutters much differently. Smoother but with more head toss... Anyway, more sh** to do.

I would say evaluate if you actually need the seat to be lower. Sometimes it's just preference, but unless you have a big pompadour or something and your head touches the ceiling, then i don't see an issue if it's close. I'd say take it off road, and see if your head bounces on the ceiling, if it does, then definitely revisit your question. Possible ideas: You could perhaps look and see what the mechanism on upper level R51s did? As in, if it had electric seats, did it adjust up and down? And if yes, then how so? If you're willing, I imagine you could take some padding out of the seat? Or figure out a way to cut the rails of the seat itself. Of course both of these are labor intensive. Sorry if I'm not much help, but figured you at least deserved a response. These are the only things I can think of.

Hate to be that guy, but please for god sakes do. They'll look quite nice.

Not trying to insult you or anything, but have you checked the battery in the remote?

I've been trying to think out what the routing would be, can anyone think of an area to route the intake on a facelift R50 that won't make it suck up a bunch of hot air?

Here's pictures of my rig

Wheel spacers are not needed with my tire size (245/75r16), I'm not a big fan of them anyway, unless they're totally necessary. While he's down there he should change the strut bearing and possibly the strut mount if it gives you issues. (Do NOT buy a KYB mount.) otherwise, if you do the above, assuming other parts aren't exhibiting wear signs, it should be enough. Also some people require camber adjustment bolts, but I didnt, so it's on a case by case basis. There's some pictures in my build thread of my setup, but I'll post one here as well once I'm off work. A note about my lift- I have MD front springs and a 1" 4x4design spacer in front to level it. Buying the HD springs I listed will negate the need for the spacer. Just thought I'd give you a heads up, as results may vary

I would suggest going to ruggedrocks.com and getting their OME springs- HD in the front (2928) and MD (2922) in the rear. Go to 4x4parts.com and order rear extended length bilstein 5100s, and rockauto.com for front KYB GR-2 struts. Go on amazon and buy WARN 29091 premium manual hubs for the front. This setup yields good off road control, superior handling, decent mpg and a good look. Hope it helps! PM me if you need any help, I'll reply promptly

This sounds like the best option, and was exactly what I was thinking. Maybe look into a hardbody for your business? Then you could swap parts over as well, but now have a bed. Not sure how much you need the backseat.

Looks good. As far as the rear, I would suggest some Bilsteins- either 4600 or 5100 will work very well to stiffen it up. If you measure correctly, supposedly there is a model of 5160 which fits too.

Just went through a whole debacle related to this (still going), and I was able to cure some clanking I heard by tightening my shock mounts and stabilizer bar bolts. I would try that sine it's free. Otherwise, make sure your spare tire is tightened down and check for any play in the control arms. Could be panhard bar bushings. Hope it helps!

Looks sweet!

One bushing is upper and the other is lower, that may be the issue.

Wow, another cool project, and one that's relatively inexpensive! Any estimate on material costs from any of you guys?

Gah that looks so good. I know what to save my pennies for.

What did you use? Is there a kit? Pics! Pics!

I think you're right, I'll still pretend it's a locker But thank you for clearing that up, I was always curious.

Hmmm now you have me thinking... And I think they are equipped with a center locking diff, my only reason being it being mentioned in period articles, as well as the obvious "Don't use on dry pavement or above 55" warnings. Could be wrong though

As above, and get yourself a Chilton/Haynes manual to explain the process among other things on your rig

I run Phillips 9003 Xtreme Power bulbs (amazon for ~$30) and couldn't be happier. Nice spread, very clear white light, and for every day driving duties they're perfect. Only issue is lifespan,which is about a year or so but that's no problem for their output.

Good choice on the 16s. 15s require some caliper trimming anyway. To be completely honest with you, for the look I assume you're going for, meaning clean, I think you should keep your stock rims and throw some nice ATs on there (BFG ATs would be a good look) in an uprated size, and lift it maybe 1" with the spacers. This is still a cheap option IMO, and other than one member who had some legitimate JDM wheels on his pathy, I tend not to like the non-factory rims. Craigslist is a good source for tires and 17s are a common size among Jeeps etc. You could always buy a set of toyota rims and tires as a package and call it a day, if you were looking for a change, and still keep that cleanly look. While you are switching tires, you could always have the current rims powder-coated in something like gunmetal grey. Just throwing some thoughts at you

Can anyone comment on how quiet they are on the street?

They really are I've had them for 25k and have loved every minute of them- quiet, great wear, excellent traction, low price. Everything is right about them, and I should get over 50k out of them. Also on the ST Maxx: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/73251-Official-Cooper-STT-thread

I'm pretty certain it's in all post-facelift R50s, and most likely the first R50 designs as well. It's automatic and unlisted, so that when you pull the 4x4 hi/low lever, the power is distributed to exactly 50/50, and no amount of slippage front or rear changes that. I believe I saw it listed as a standard item when all the enthusiast mags were reviewing the Pathfinder around '01. Some mentioned it, and said that it had a "creamy ride off road". I know some Toyotas have a "center diff lock" (same thing) but they have a separate button. Nissan chose to integrate it apparently.