Karmann

Used Steeve from Rugged Rocks for my rear OME springs. His customer service was superb, and even helped me buy literally the last R50 springs in stock on the West Coast, with extremely cheap shipping (might've even been free) even. I can't give enough props to this guy, highly recommended. RockyRoad on the other hand seems to be hit and miss.

I believe you can fit a 245/75r16 in the stock under-the-loadfloor location. This is according to Stioc, he said there was minimal modification, but I'm planning on testing this myself.

No hate here either, I'm a mopar guy myself; hope it works out for you.

You can get extended SS brake lines online, but as far as the shocks, I believe the sway bar would be the limiting factor before you hyper-extend your shocks. Don't quote me on that for your rig specifically, but I know that's how mine works.

Assuming you have the 3.3, I would suggest regearing. If it's already bad, it's only going to get worse.

Oh then that shouldn't be an issue, Theexbrit did the same thing. As long as the factory put it there, no matter who took it off after the fact, it should still work haha.

Unless yours came with one from the factory; no. There's not enough support put into the taillight area if it didn't come with one stock.

The above comments are spot-on. I would say to make it easier on yourself, buy the split-design bushings. They make installation a snap. I just did these on mine, with MOOG replacements.

That's true, well I wasn't billed for new struts, and when I replaced my front stabilizer bar bushings, I definitely saw that my struts were still in place. Every nut and bolt I touched when installing my lift myself was still there, and seemingly correctly applied. The fool did replace the lower control arms (stupid, lazy move on his part, claiming the bushings were too hard to remove), but to give him the benefit of the doubt, the crunching noise was present before I took it to his little shop of horrors.... The thing with the struts is that they're less than 30k old, and show no signs of failure. When I put in my lift springs and spacers, a new strut bearing was put in, and the strut mount itself seemed fine.

Well that's the thing, with the front end jacked up, the most play is about 2 millimeters at most, it's so minimal I don't expect them to be the culprit. Instead there seems to be something which pops while going around turns at full lock, coming from the front passenger area. This is accompanied by a distinct crunch while going over speed bumps. A lot of the suggestions on here didn't seem yet applicable, so I'm really at a loss.... pulling my hair out every time I drive it.

So I replaced the sway bar bushings, to no difference, and had a wheel balance done just for sh**s- fixed the majority of the wobble. Yet there still remains the creak when going over bumps, and a slight wobble round 60 mph... again, going to do the front bearings when I have time.

That's why you've got to bob and weave, warms up the tires

Interesting, so I guess they widened the track as well, on top of wider tires and fender flares... Weird. I wonder if it translates to any handling difference.

I remember reading also that SEs post facelift vary in width slightly, when compared to LEs. If I'm not mistaken, this is because of the larger tires of the SE? Somehow the track changed, and I assume that's the reason. It would be silly, but interesting to make the "Sports Edition" wider other than tire size.

I wouldn't suggest bypassing it, but this does being up a question of mine- when you lift, does the LSV detect no load at all times? Therefore if towing, will it act like it's empty because of the stiffer springs preventing suspension compression?

I'm one for trails- if there's mud or rocks along the way, then so be it.

Same advice as others have said... I get 13.5 city and about 15-17 highway, in good mechanical shape but with the VQ.

Cool, let us know how they perform. They're looking like a solid option.

Well they're lighter than other sizes, performance is still healthy..... Good size and the high aspect ratio make for a smooth ride, the tall skinny effect of the 9.5" width is excellent with no noticeable difference in "tippy" feeling.

What size wheel do you have on there now? If 15: 31x10.50 is nice, and if 16: 245/75r16 is great.

A factory spare carrier would be excellent for my application, but I guess they were removed as they make accessing the cargo in a busy supermarket parking lot rather cumbersome. At least I can fit an upsized tire in the spot for my spare, and can put gas cans on the roof.

LED light bar on the roof IMO, just make sure to mount it as close to the roof as you can and it'll look cool, and put out more light than you'd ever believe.

Those bilsteins would be fantastic. I have the 4600s and they ride like a dream, 5100s are a beefier version, and coupled with the right spring rate have enough dampening for prerunner duty, while still having a smooth ride. Buy them and you won't be sorry, I put bilsteins above all others for Pathfinder applications.

Possibly, my SE seats are 100% manual and extremely comfortable. Worth a look for sure, they are quite firm but provide lots of support, comfortable even on 10+ hour road trips.

Really nice work!