Karmann

I'm a big fan of clean looks on my rig, yet needed to add some additional lighting when reversing due to my limo tint, and general lack of stock output. What better way than putting some 6" LEDs into the factory rear bumper reflector location? I thought. After several months with the bumper off, finding time here and there to work on the thing, finish the body work, and paint it, this is the result: These are some 6" LED Blitzpro lights, which I was able to cram into the slots, after much fiddling and bondo work. Essentially what you want to do is: take off the rear bumper, cut out the bottom part of the "reflector cup" only leaving the top of the plastic tab. You may want to do this another way, if you want more room, as it's pretty tight otherwise. After, you simply mount up the lights and go, assuming you hadn't cracked the paint as I did, or discover a rear collision as I did. If you are in the same boat as I was, I highly suggest mounting the lights, and having a local body shop do the rest of the painting and bondo work to save you the hassle. Looking back, I certainly wish I did. After mounting, I wired the lights into my passenger side reverse lamp (converted already to LED pre mod, so the total draw of the system is less than one incandescent bulb), run the wire through the plug in the load floor, and away you go. It might just look cool in the desert. Or light up the whole dang thing. These lights are very bright, and have now given me ample vision when backing into a camping spot, to the point of being able to see clearly through my tint, and see the whole background in my rearview mirrors. So I would call this mod a success. None of my work is perfect, but for a 12 year old vehicle, it doesn't look bad at all, and it performs better than expected. I would suggest this to anyone, hopefully taking their own twist on it, and would alternately mount one lamp on the space between the rear bumper and the top of the trailer hitch. Hope this provided some inspiration.

Looks good, I'll add my "super stock" bumper to my list of favorite mods. Stuck in some 6" blitzpro LEDs for reversing.

Sounds like they don't? Maybe try for the FM unit, or same as Ferrari said

Correct, the Frontier is directly related to the Xterra and has no cross-compatible parts with R50s that I know of, other than general VG motors etc. If you're looking into fitting 35s, typically an SFD is the only answer. Fender upgrades on these amount to how much you're willing to cut, as there are really no fiberglass options.

Thank you And correct, I have an 18" magnaflow with the resonator removed. More or less a cat-back system. I would say if you want to pick up mileage, do the above maintenance, check your air filter or step to a cold air intake, and most importantly switch to manual locking hubs. These take wear off of your front end, increase MPG, and increase in my mind responsiveness. Plus they just look proper. Otherwise your mileage sounds normal, I just got 17.5 mpg this weekend with 450 miles of highway driving and 50 of off roading, loaded with gear.

Go on autoanything.com, I bought my set of intro-tech hex mats from them and they've been excellent. Full coverage of the rear footwells, and the small indentations catch any liquid. Check them out

I have the 3.5, see my sig link for my fuelly profile. That mileage is totally normal, and I only run 91 octane.

As mentioned, check for an exhaust leak.

Superbrightleds.com. Literally every interior light I have is now LED thanks to them and a Craigslist source.

As said the voltage difference causes this. I love LEDs but haven't swapped my blinkers to them until they have a resistor built in, and DOT legal ambers.

Correct, that was what I was afraid of...

Odd, but I have my fair share of experience with clueless dealers, talk to Rob as I can assure he isn't clueless. Hope you can track down the right filter, otherwise, I've had great luck with Mobil 1 EP filters.

I replaced the fuses in question (power socket, rear window, and lighter) both in the engine bay and the sin drawer, with no results. Just did the continuity test, and nothing registered. Any other ideas? I'm pretty dang confused.

I want the field base worse than I have any right to.

Yes you are the only one lol. I know it only operates in the ACC or ON position, I'll try to measure with a meter tomorrow... I'm genuinely perplexed.

Not yet, I'll try that out tomorrow, just seems like there's zero power to any of them.

I'm having an issue where all of my power outlets/cigarette lighters aren't providing any power to charge my phone, cameras etc. I've checked the associated fuses and all are in perfect condition. Any help?

^ above, or a defective set, pretty much a myriad of things related to the tires.

What rims are on that silver one, I kinda like it. As for your question, I think you may have to clarify what you're asking. Are you wondering how manuals do off road vs automagics?

Go jack up the front end of your pathy until both front wheels are off the ground. Properly secure it (hand brake set, tranny in park, jack stands etc.), and grab ahold of the front tire, see if there's any play in either. There shouldn't be any movement, if there is, it may be your wheel bearings. I went through the exact same issue, and it turned out to be my tires feathering. I had them balanced and rotated over and over again until I just live with it now, but it certainly has hastened my buying of new tires. (Next month).

25k miles a year requires frequent oil changes, yes. Would you happen to know what they're listed under on RockAuto, I don't see bushings in the 'steering' area.

Interesting.... could this be the source of a clunk when turning at full lock?

Could you find a writeup on how to replace that bushing XPLOR?

I get rattles just the same. Not many for a 100k+ mile car but still