stioc

I didn't know the guy (who?) said that, that's cool. However, I think the main reason the other design is used is to provide a mounting location for the skid plates. I'm not a mechanical engineer by trade but having grown up around cars I've picked up a few things that once in a while come in handy. Hehe I'm a gear head so I usually find uses for things like shop presses (or excuses to justify their existence?). Though even I don't use it all that much. I suppose you could use a cheap bottle jack under the rear hitch reciever to crush the ends. But if you're like me I know you'll probably get one and if so well why wait Yes that's the idea and while the flexing probably won't stop but since the unibody structure (especially the older technology) relies on bracing and boxing for its strength the more you can provide those the better. I heard people say it made a huge difference for them so I thought I'd give it a try and I can feel the difference but at the end of the day it's still a lifted heavy truck. Though my perspective is usually clouded by what I have to compare it with.

Initially I inquired about the $40 missing link from the nice folks in Canada but with shipping it was going to be $60 + wait time. I figured I could weld one up myself in an afternoon for $20 in parts. Then I realized I didn't even need to make one similar to what's available on the market. I could go even simpler, lightweight and just as effective. In all honesty I didn't even spend $5 because I already had a section of 0.9" galvanized pipe/conduit laying around. I cut it to length (approx 24"), crushed the ends in my shop press, drilled a couple of holes and voila! The missing link is no longer missing A quick test drive showed immediate noticeable difference. The truck feels less nervous in turns and overall more solid. Some of you guys may be thinking that it's not strong/rigid enough because it's not as hefty as the ones on the market and I could try to convince you otherwise but I won't. I just wanted to share what I did and if someone wants to try it before dropping $60 on one it's easy to whip up in an hr. I will mention that most BMWs come with this style missing link or cross bars which is where I got the idea in the first place.

I think Howie means the pic in his signature. Also, the OEM brush guards have been available for the R50s pretty much throughout the years. The one I have for sale I don't believe is the OEM but a replica. Do the OEM brush guards have only two mount points (in the tow hook area?) or four?

They're bolted on and plenty strong thus far, we'll see after a few trail runs. I'm trying to keep all my mods 'reversible' as much as possible.

Typically I'm not a fan of them due to several reasons, one I prefer a cleaner look, but the main one being in a real front end collision they do more damage than good and two the approach angle suffers. While I've seen people using them for recovery points and with the hi-lift (with reinforcement?) but I don't think with just the two attachment points like the OEM rack fot the Pathy they should be used as such. Having said all that they do provide a place to mount aux lights and the main reason I want one is so I can mount my hi-lift on it. I don't want to mount the hi-lift on the roof rack because it's hard to get it out and back up there, two the center of gravity is higher and three usually my roof rack is pretty darn loaded. I also don't want to mount it towards the rear of the truck because loaded down for 3 days of camping the rear is squats down a bit more so having the hi-lift and the grill guard the weight should even out a bit. I know of one in the area for a good deal, but is it worth it?

RRO super sliders are made to order but even then I had them at my door step in two weeks! Matt Frisby at RRO is very responsive and easy to work with, actually the whole team is but I've had great experience dealing with Matt than anyone else there.

Got the other side done too.

Score! That's the same one I have.

Thanks TC, I didn't know about it. I think I'm going to use my MityVac hand pump instead of the Motive because I ain't gonna pay $40 for their adapters each time I change cars. Maybe the universal one but it looks pretty hoky with chains and stuff.

I too have the Motive bleeder so I'm interested in how you went about getting it to work on the Pathy. What's LSV? I've never bothered bleeding the ABS units in the past, they keep the fluid under a fair bit of pressure.

I got the second slider on and I must say other than the ground-clearance height issue they look pretty nice. theexbrit, I can believe my truck weighing less than all your lights combined but in all seriousness how heavy is the brush-guard? While I've never been a fan of them on stock-ish looking trucks but I'm finally thinking of getting one, mainly so I can mount my hi-lift on top of it. projekz, I love your sig picture, everytime I see it I'm LMAO

More good points man! The tire size I have is a 245/75/16 so it's 30.46" and most people run 265/75/16 on the R50s which is 31.6". I was in a connundrum when I was deciding on the tire size. Initially the 32" is what I wanted but I heard that I'd need additional backspacing. Not wanting to replace the wheels or run spacers I decided to go with a skinnier 245 tire (OEM was 255) and it's turned out to be a good choice for the amount of lift I have and its weight etc. I sometimes wonder if I should've tried 235/85/16, at the time I thought that would be way too narrow compared to the stock tire and may peel off the stock rim when air'd down on the trails but I'm sure it would've been fine. I know some even run 37" tires but personally I wouldn't want to go beyond 32" tires from the reliability perspective. Do you have a lift on your's? your website's not working and your sig is not helping my headache OK I got the front/rear ARB lockers, tires size and the engine code, not sure what RE4R01A/TX10-3.7 is though

Nice work, it looks great- congrats! Dig that bumper too! What part of SoCal?

^^^ This a very good point actually because the bottom of the sliders is even with the bottom of the frame rails. The truck just 'looks' lower now (more sedate if you will) because the gap between it and the ground is not as much as it used to be. Wish I had another couple of inches...of ground clearance Maybe 32s next time- but I'm so need to stop spending all the cash on it

You're the man TC! thanks!

Cool thanks. What's the bulb type for the interior lights? It's the glass fuse type bulb, DExxx ?

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll definitely keep them for a little whilte regardless and see how I like them. And yes they'e approx 40lbs each.

There are lots of choices out there but looking for recommendations. I prefer the warm/yellow light but white is ok too as long as its not blueish like with most cheap LEDs bulbs.

I really wanted to get the Rocky Road super sliders and I finally got them. First thing I noticed was they are very well built, good quality and sturdy- but heavier than I'd expected at approx 80lbs for the pair. Anyway, I got one of them installed today after 2hrs of lining up and drilling- no template was included so I had to do some extra measuring etc. However, for some reason I'm not 100% sure I like them. I kinda like the cleaner no-slider look better or maybe I just need to get used to them. I'm als not thrilled that I lost about 2" of clearance under the rocker panels because of them. 2" or so is all I have over stock so I'm not excited about losing it, granted it's under the rocker panels but now I have more chances of getting hung up on rocks and really using the sliders just from the fact that there's 2" of extra stuff hanging under the rocker panels now. If I had a bigger lift I wouldn't mind them at all. What are your guys' thoughts? remove and sell them or keep them? Without: With: Without: With:

So I crawled underneath and removed the splash pan to take a look at the bushings. I found out that one the originals don't "look" bad and two removal of the upper bolts is going to be a PITA so while I have new ones sitting in the garage I'll probably just leave them alone.

Awesome, thanks guys. I just ordered.

Anyone care to post the part no for the said steering rack bushings? I couldn't find them on Rock Auto.

Probably minor differece but most cars have the sensor at the bottom of the radiator where the coolant has already had a chance to cool and is now ready to go back into the engine block . The fan should come on at this point if the coolant still isn't cool enough.

In the case of the Lokka style lockers the front makes perfect sense (ratcheting noise etc which is eliminated by the manual hubs under normal driving conditions) that's why they only make them for the front. However, I've edited my previous post and tried to clarify a bit more why I believe the front locker isn't as effective as the rear- if you could only have one locker regardless of the car/type etc. ARB style locker (selectable) makes perfect sense for the rear and even most 4x4 manufacturers offer only the rear diff lock option because it's that effective. Just my 2 cents...regardless for our trucks and for cost reasons Lokka is a great option.

Sweet, I didn't think you needed to shim these or do you mean the diff needed shimming anyways because it was out of spec? I know in theory how to setup a diff but after blowing one in my race car (which I thought I'd setup according to the book) I now think it's a black art and voodoo Do you a build-thread of your Pathfinder floating around somewhere, sounds like you've done some cool stuff to it. Let me know when you're planning to do this, I'm interested too we might even be able to do a group purchase to get better pricing