patqx4

Sounds like you've got er covered, for all the grief you've been through at least you will get a good return on the trails, and the road after one of our 4' snowfalls The only other thing that would be great for one of these massive lifts is longer/extendable trailing arms. Fleuries ones looked great I don't understand why no one bought them.

Welcome, sounds like you're already familiar with the r50. Your old disco looks great, I love land rover. Every day I dream of buying a 1995 RRC to build up for an off-road rig. If only I had the money.

Heh, yeah. That will definitely be the next thing I try, especially since checking the bearings will get me halfway there, and I have a CV boot to change.

There's definitely worn parts though, I didn't have excessive wheel play before so I can't help thinking the knocking is related. The axles shouldn't affect that

No, the noise is present with hubs locked and unlocked. I'll check the manual for that info when I can

Thanks a lot ferrariowner123! If new tie rods and ball joints doesn't cure it, I will get new bearings.

Yeah, both sides are like that, they're the OEM axles. I've had them both out to change the inner CV boots, pretty certain I replaced all the c clips and everything.

Also annoyingly, after 1 week of hubs locked in driving, my new Rockford CV boot tore. I must have installed it wrong I guess, but I can't see how. I thought removing my nx4 spacers would like end this CV boot nightmare!

Looks really good, 4" sfd with 33mt is where I want to go with mine as well! Do you find it harder to get in now that it's so high? [emoji14]

Hmm, I had the outer bearings out about a year ago when I changed the brake rotors. I repacked them with grease before reinstall. Never touched the inner ones. Would they be loose to be making knocking noises?

Sorry yeah, the half shafts. So far I've just replaced the sway bar links, but I've got a ton of play in the wheels, with hands at 3&9, and 6&12. So I've ordered new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and steering rack bushings. I will update after I install these items.

So today I was trying to find an annoying knocking from my front end as I drive over bumpy roads, and when I pull on my drive shafts they seem to move in and out at the hubs, and make a metallic clunk. Is this normal? Im thinking this might be the noise. I'm thinking about removing the drive shafts just to see, but maybe I'm not installing them right and someone knows what's the problem here. http://vid26.photobucket.com/albums/c135/TwoGunzUp/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20150705_125353_zps5onleq32.mp4

You can also buy hub centric rings, that will allow you to keep your wheels! I hope that's all it is!

I don't think this is an issue with front drivetrain, seeing as he said it occurs even with the hubs disengaged...

I also had bad camber and kept tearing CV boots with a 1" top spacer, so I decided to remove them. I just don't trust the strength of camber bolts either and won't use them again. Now I won't be using any more spacers until I get a sfd. On the spinning bolts issue, I know first hand what a royal pain this is. When replacing my lower control arms the rearmost weld nuts inside the subframe broke loose and spun. The first time I cut the bolt off then cut a small access hole to remove the old nut and tighten on a new one. Use 2 nuts on the new bolt to ensure it stays tight. Weld the hole shut when finished. The second time around there was a very small opening which I snuck a small pair of pliers into and was just enough to tighten it with an impact from below. I would say cutting an access hole is your best bet to remedy the problem. No ideas about your wheel shimmy unfortunately. Good luck

225,000km (140,000 miles)

truly sweet rig man, If you're ever in halifax area and want someone to wheel with, hit me up!

any updates to this? It's very interesting.

thanks, that actually helped, found out Its the 4lo neutral switch, #68 in this diagram from the fsm Now the problem is how to access the harness as it is right on top of the tcase! Ugh

I had my 4wd error diagnosed at the dealer, and they gave me the part at fault. But when I look up this part number there seem to be multiple switches with this number and different letters at the end, I can't figure out which is which. Can someone help me? Here's the part I have: and here is the tcase diagram, I've highlighted the 3 switches "32006_"

I actually like the face of the 96-00 Pathfinders better than the face lifted years, and that one looks fantastic.

Great build thread, I'm enjoying the pictures and the Pathy. Well done!

I concur with everything rebelord said. This is why paying someone else to turn the wrenches for you sucks, and for people who can't (or won't) do things themselves, newer cars with warranties are better.

I have the ome springs you mentioned, I don't notice any harder ride than stock. I gained exactly 1.75" at each corner from my old saggy stock coils. If you're certain that you're good with the current height, keep the stock coils. However, I Can just fit 31's with no rub on my ome lift + nx4 spacer, but really wish I could fit 33s now. I went with kyb struts, no experience with ranchos, so I can't say which is better.

My 4wd light came on last winter, out of the blue right when I needed it most. Here's a breakdown of whats going on: -when I start the truck the selected green wheels in the cluster flash continuously in 2wd, auto, and 4hi. - after moving the truck about 20 feet, all the wheel indicators in the cluster go dark and 4wd light comes on. - locking/unlocking the hubs have no effect on this. -4lo is working, I used it to crawl out of my driveway after major snowfalls last winter, but auto and 4hi aren't working. - tire pressure is even in all tires and all tires match. I did the troubleshooting diagnostic via TF-28 of the fsm, turned up: Looks light Neutral-4LO switch. This is where it turns to gibberish to me, since I know nothing about electronics or troubleshooting them. I'm more of a wrench and hammer guy, a bit neanderthal. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? or can point me to the likely faulty component? Otherwise I'll be forced to the dealer to hand over a months wages most likely.