patqx4

Oh yeah? Pm me if you come to Scotia on a weekend, we can go wheelin.

You just need to buy pre flared 3/8 brake line in the approximate length you need. Make sure the threads on the fittings are metric and not imperial or it will leak. Then you bend them to shape, which is really the part I struggled with. It would be awesome if you could buy them pre shaped, then it would be so easy just screw them in and bleed the brakes. If you do change one I recommend that you tape up the fittings during the bending and fitting until the moment you screw them in. Dirt got in my line and all in the threads and I had to start over with a new line.

Here's how I'm driving it for now Headlight is fixed, I got really lucky that it was only cracked in a couple places. A JY replacement is $500 Brake line is fixed. I've never changed a brake line before.. what a PITA! The steering wheel is crooked, not surprisingly. My camber bolts just came in the mail friday so It was going in for an alignment anyway. But other that that it drives straight and everything seems fine. Making progress.

Thanks for the support everyone! I will continue to update this as the repair progresses. and Karmann the jack is the stock jack that came with the truck.

No need for a snorkel. I'm building it like an expedition rig, I generally try to avoid mud and water. The spacers came from ebay and thanks for the kind words, It's really out of necessity that I'm doing it myself though, lol.

Looks good, the trimming seems pretty tame, similar to what I recently did. I still think the 18s and tires are hotness

The rebuild so far:

No way... it's crumpled all to hell. Plus I could see afterwards that under the flare was completely rotted. Drove it into a pole at low speed. brake line blew and foot went to the floor. I felt the same way whenever I saw a post like this one. I never thought it would be me. True that.

bummer, thanks man

Can anyone tell me if the bumper reinforcement for a 01-04 pathfinder and 01-03 qx4 is the same? I need to replace mine and I can only find pathy ones in the scrapyards.

...of members who've crashed their pathys A-Arm is toast: And somehow I ruptured a brake line in the BACK! Can anyone help me with the part name and number for the steel brake line that broke? It's the line that goes into the rubber line to the axle. I have a new control arm coming tomorrow, and a new fender on Monday. I think I can save the headlight. sigh.

Fyi I didn't notice any difference at all after I got my 1.5" spacers. Besides making the stance look way more bad asser that is.

What wheels are those? the truck looks amazing

I have the 17" special edition wheels with stock 245/65/17 tires, when I put on 1.5" wheel spacers they rubbed on the fender liners on sharp turns, just like Ferrari owner described. I've installed a ome lift which alleviated the problem, but I just picked up a set of 265/70/17. So I'm sure I'll be trimming soon. I really don't think you can go bigger than stock tires with wheel spacers and no lift.

Please make some more of these kits, I'll be first in line to buy one

a 2 or even 3 inch sfd would be epic. I want a couple more inches but 4 is just too much.

I have a pair I just took off this weekend. I can do that if you pay shipping. How long do you need them cut and what's it for out of curiosity?

Fellow canucks, After not wanting to pay exorbitant shipping and no doubt duty as well on my ome coils, I found the Quebec based company Ouipack They got me the OME 2928 HD front and 2922 MD rear coils for $168CAD /pair. +$69CAD shipping. Since they ship out of Quebec, no duty! I Thought I'd pass on the info to anyone in Canada about to buy the ome coils from USA or farther, and save some cash. Now for a fun filled afternoon installing these

I'm in for a missing link, piste

I don't know the answer about that particular fluid, but when I installed my auxiliary transmission cooler I also changed all the fluid. I went to nissan to buy the matic d stuff, and the parts guy said I should save my money and just get generic dexron3. Since thats all the nissan fluid is anyway. So I went to canadian tire and bought the generic stuff. This was about 2.5 years ago and ever since I changed it the transmission has seemed a little smoother. Of course, it could be just in my head. But my old fluid was in poor shape. Here's the fluid I used http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/TransmissionFluidTreatments/PRDOVR~0281502P/MotoMaster+Dexron+III%2BMercon+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid.jsp?locale=en

Are the ironmans really softer than stock springs? the camel4x4 site says the back are "Additional Weight up to 440lb" And the front say "Additional Weight up to 110lb" Doesn't this mean that they are stiffer than oem?

Thanks Bluewulf, yes, it's the hatch door jam right above the drivers side tail light. I finished the "repair" this morning. and it looks better than I expected. Bondo Final result, primed and painted I'd call this resolved, for now at least. It looks better than the rust hole, and the best part it was free since I already had all the supplies used. I still need to figure out what to do about the door rust...

Quick update on this, I decided to cut and grind away as much rust as I could from the door jam with my angle grinder. This was the result: I sprayed on a couple coats of rust reformer and let it dry, then cut a filler patch and jb weld'd it on: I'll be the first to admit that I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to body work, but hopefully with a little bondo and alot of patience, I can make it look half decent. Doesn't need to be beautiful, since it's hidden except when the door is open.

thanks for the reply, I'd rather not make big ugly holes and not fill them in. I think the proper way to go is to cut out the rust and weld new metal in, but that could be pricey commercially.

yeah it's really not cool ... I want to keep driving it for a while i've been spending alot of time and money on maintenance and upgrades lately but if the rust takes over I might be in trouble