ferrariowner123

So what's your question exactly? -Kyle

He's right they aren't that hard to hurt build. The reason so any people don't do it is because of all the supporting mods you need to do after, like what was said, knuckles, probably need something to account for the angle on the show tower, new and custom CD'S, new sway bar mount, etc. Would be sick if anyone were to do that. -Kyle

Nice find. I found this in that videos suggestions. Love those wheels on this R50 -Kyle

Well, I can report that after driving her home today, with the switch off, my seat did not warm up, and the switches control the the seats they are labeled, driver to driver, passenger to passenger. So now I think I'm down to a loose connection on the passenger switch, and a bad bulb on the driver switch. Still a little confused on the illumination for rear defrost, but I'm sure I can get it sorted, but I'm totally open to advice. -Kyle

So yesterday, I decided I try and tackle my heated seats, (since it's getting cold again). During the summer, it felt like the driver side was stuck on, and after a failed attempted to put some LED'S in the lights forever ago, they have never really worked right, they switched locations (right were turn on left, and vice versa) and the driver light wouldn't turn on, but would still work, passenger seemed to work okay. Anyway, I printed out the wiring diagram, checked for continuity, and everything check out, and seemed to be okay, so I made a new, shared ground for the switches, ran some new wires for the switches since I moved them from the center dash, to down by the ash try. Then I connected everything back up. The seat works, but it worked before. But now the passenger light, only lights up some of the time, at least in my brief 7 minute drive to work. It's seemed like if I pushed it, it would light up, the driver one, was same as before. Worked but wouldn't illuminate. Also while I was in there, I thought I'd simplify some of the radio wiring, and hard wire my stereo into the car, so I basically cut back anything that wasn't being used, and apparently that made the rear window defogger illumination stop, again the function still works, but I don't get a light anymore. So I'm really bummed because it was supposed to be a simple thing, but I guess I screwed it up more than it was before. So here's my plan, I'm going to try and figure out what's going on with the wiring, see if I cut something by mistake, and make new grounds for the heated seat buttons. And if all else fails, I'm just going to go to the junkyard and grab a new harness for right behind the radio, and put it back exactly the way it was. My question to you, is, was there anything I did, or plan to do, that sounds questionable? Both the illumination and heated seats circuit are really simple, so that's why I'm sorta bummed that I'm having such a hard time with it. Anyways, any and ALL abvice or suggestions are appreciated. -Kyle

Alright, I'm off from early fairly early today, I need to get some measurements from back there, so I'll snap some photos for you guys. -Kyle

I know the bumper support won't fit dude the bar that runs under the grill and headlights. Maybe with that out of the way, it will work. But I'm fairly sure he's not running the bumper support. -Kyle

Love the handy work. I should really pop open my rig and see just what nissan has put back there, for strength. Maybe it's fairly simple, I feel like looked once when Andy was putting his swing away on, anyway, if I'm bored today, I'll grab some shots. -Kyle

There are tons of info on the timing belt in this forum. If the crank pulley is stuck, and you can't get it out, but a harmonic balancer puller, if that doesn't work, get a jaw puller. Make sure you don't bugger up the crank bolt threads with the puller, put a socket or something in front of it. Be very careful with removing the timing cover bolts around the oil pump area, I broke two mounting points and had to improvize to keep it from hitting the balancer. But as others have posted, check the old threads posted around here, plenty of info for every situation. -Kyle

Well, the job is done and I am pleased to report that she is fixed. No more flat tire noises. No more bake pulsing, no more stud troubles. Had new races pressed at this killer shop in Bellevue Washington. They had FIVE mk4 supra's sitting around. Its rare enough to see one, let alone five! Anyway, she's all fixed, need to pay of my credit card so I can keep working on pathy and getting her fixed up right! Thanks again for all your guys help and advice. Don't think it would have been done without your help. -Kyle

well, i just tried to see if i can get some tinkem bearings from autozone, they only show one bearing, and i think its the outer bearing, but i think its the inner thats bad. So i guess im just going to stick to the napa ones i have, because i really need to get my car back on the road. So unless someone has a solution, im going to go down to napa, get the correct tool i need, and get it done... -Kyle

Yeah, I'm definitely going to buy the tool when I take back the bearings. -Kyle

Thats what i have done before, and i didn't have any issues before, and i thought i had done that when i changed the studs. Werid... -Kyle

Okay, well i didn't read this before ripping her apart, but from the past, i know i had wobble at 9 and 3, so yeah, bearings were "BAD" plus the started whining after i went "off roading" once, same side, speed dependent. But i looked at the bearings, they look, well perfect, honestly. but i noticed something as i was taking the hub assembly apart, the nut i guess you could call it, that holds the whole assembly the spindle and knuckle, it was loose, like easily spun without any real force, now i had to take all of that off before so i could change the wheel studs the first time, and i don't have the tool that correctly torques them down, so i just used, i guess the "german torque spec" logic with that i guess, could that be the cause of all of this? Please note, i am still going to change the bearings, i'm just curious at this point. Also, i have some mobil 1 synthetic grease, does that work with this application? It says wheel bearings as a job it can be used for. i know basic question, but i REALLY don't want to do all of this for a THIRD time... Thanks -Kyle

interesting, well i did just buy a set of "SKF" (Napa) Bearings, but i can still return them if i need to. Which i want to, one side was $76 bucks ! What i am looking for on the bearings, besides the obvious signs of roller failure, and is it hard setting new races? Can i do it with basic hand tools? Thanks for all the help guys, -Kyle

Yup, im soon to be one of them. -Kyle

Well shoot, I knew I should have ordered bearings when I ordered new studs... Alright, I'll put some random Napa brand till I can get some Beck and arnley ones. -Kyle

Yeah, it's a VG, but I'm unaware if the cams are the same. Plus they may be different between turbo and non turbo... Kingman has a Z31, he would know. -

Turning either way, that bearing has been bad for a while now. Think it finally went? But it was fine when I drove it right before the stud issue. Even more puzzling... -Kyle

Nope Terrano 2 is a completely different car. maybe things like the interior switches would work. But It's just Terrano for the foreign equivalent of an R50.

Oh and I figure I might add some additional info on the noise. It only happens when going straight, when I turn, it goes away. And like I said, it was like a tire going flat sound but no vibration in the steering.... -Kyle

Not a whole lot for the pathfinder. Which is really lame. They aren't really similar to any model, like Frontier to Xterra for example. We had a running list a while ago of cross compatible parts, don't remember what happened to that thread. But dispite the fact the 300zx and this share the same series of engine, almost nothing is compatible, maybe injectors, but it's a very short list. -Kyle

Couldn't help it.... And no, previous posts show my exact lug nuts...

Interesting, i have NEVER seen a kouki with a swing away, in person, but still cool to see, need to check my catalogs i have been collecting, i have a 96, 01, and 04, Sounds like i have reason to get the ones in between, lol -Kyle

How much does the service run? On average.