ferrariowner123

How did we gloss over these beauty's!?! Custom HID retrofits! Nice. Do it yourself or have it done? -Kyle

Interesting..... I have the optional over head thingy that does pretty much the same thing. Show outside temp, and direction, never seen it like that before. I like it more than what we got. My best suggestion would be to start with basics, look for fuse faults,wire breaks,and shorts. -Kyle

Jackson autosport I think is who made it to buy, I have one, but I'm fairly sure you can't buy them anymore. They can be made fairly easy though. -Kyle

Interior parts mainly, seats, trim, in black of course. -Kyle

I put this in http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA It wasn't shifting great before, and didn't change much after... But still good to know. -Kyle

There are a few threads of people trying to solve it. And at least one guy I can think of who actually put coilovers on his pathy. As far as part numbers go, there is nothing designed to replace the shock. You're going custom if you want coils. -Kyle

If you find a pathfinder, I'll buy some parts off you. -Kyle

Interesting to hear that Kingman, what wheels do you have? I have 31 inch duratracs and have a wobble too, it was really bad under braking. Changed one side of the wheel bearings, breaking wobble is pretty much gone. I'm going to do the other side and see if it improves, but I still get a wobble at 55-65 MPH, I don't know what it is yet. -Kyle

Sounds like a neat project, something I'd love to do one day. As far as the climate control. I want to say yes, it will swap. But it's VERY involved. The best way to get it done with minimal headaches further down the road, like hunting wiring gremlins and such. Is to just pull the dash and take everything related to the HVAC and pull it out. Then pull everything out of the QX4, related to HVAC and put in back in place. I've wanted to do something like that with the LE platinum pathfinders. Ideally a full interior swap. But I can dream. Lol Let us know how it goes. I can look into to wiring diagram and part numbers to see what exactly is different. -Kyle

READ THIS FIRST!!!! Alright, so i'm currently in the process of wiring up my 96' with 01 window controls, so ill have auto up and down, for both driver and passenger.... During my wiring nightmare i have created for myself i noticed that my 2001 FSM does not show the kouki R50 pathfinder having a passenger door, key cylinder. Which i found really weird, but also makes sense, i can remember only one instance where i used my key to get into the car from that passenger side, it was to see if the key and cylinder worked. So pretty much, its never used, especially since i went keyless. What i found even stranger, was when i Googled "2001 Nissan Pathfinder" in images, i found some kouki models with a cylinder, and some without, which i straight up, do not get. HERE IS THE QUESTION FOR THE POLL Does your updated (kouki) model R50 have a passenger door, key cylinder? IF SO, what year is your pathfinder? This is basically a curiosity poll, but still would like to see if there is some reasoning as to why. i.e. differences in sub models or packages... Thank you all for humoring me in this strange conundrum. -Kyle

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28342-my-subframe-drop-install-thread/?p=536836&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=536836 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27981-krfabs-pathfinderqx4-lift-kit/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29237-sfd/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32349-ordered-my-sfd-today/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31584-my-pathy-project-lifting/ Not all are basic install threads, but all have information about it. -Kyle

I get the rest, but why would 5th, my least used gear, wear out before 1st, 2nd, or 3rd? -Kyle

I'm having similar problems. Only slightly worse. Grinds in random gears at random times. I'm really hoping it's the pedal and not the actual clutch. I've rebuilt the salve and bleed thoroughly. Works for a few days and then starts going back to what it was. I'm going to replace the master next. If that doesn't do it. It's time for a new clutch and everything that goes with it. I'm at 140,000 miles so it's probably my clutch is going. But if I don't have to pull the Trans, I won't. Lol Let me know what you find if you have fixed it.

Have you tried searching? I can think of at least two easily found ones. . -Kyle

Might be one of the ignition wires, if I remember correctly, you have two ignition wires that run to the cluster. Do the back lights work when you fire up the headlights? -Kyle

Well, on a tiny displacement 4 cylinder, yes, but on our V6's, I doubt it. You don't feel anything with the AC. However I do agree. More power means more work and strain on the engine. At best you'll loose some mileage, not much I'd imagine. -Kyle

It's a simple mod, all you do is run trigger wire from the AC relay to the fogs so they will work with the ignition. I did that for my car. Works great! -Kyle

I've got plans of going the Taraus fan swap, and putting the sending unit right next to the factory sending units on the top water neck. I think a few have done on the R50, alot more on the WD's, the thing about doing this on an R50, especially when running a Taraus fan, is you have to upgrade the tiny output alternator that comes stock on the R50, VG motor. If I I remember correctly it's like 60 amps, something like the 80 amp maxima, or 120 (I think) amp quest alternator are suitable choices. -Kyle

Yeah, it's tucked behind the timing cover and under the lower intake manifold. Had to get that thing out of the way so I could change my knock sensor. That thing was the worst part of the whole job. -Kyle

Some pentitrating fluid like liquid wrench or pb blaster works, pb is my personal favorite. But if you are going to work on brake parts. I HIGHLY recommend you get a boxed wrench, don't have to get a set, just the 10 or 12mm, can't remember either. It greatly reduces the chances of rounding off the brake fitting. Since they have been there for a long time, and have corrosion, I can safely say that the only what your going to get that fitting off, is with a boxed wrench. As for plugging the distribution block, I can't think of a way, I know when I'd have a bare fitting, say when replacing the soft lines. I'd stick a little piece of a closed vacuum line over the end of the tubing. Worked great, but not sure how that would work for a female fitting. Maybe stick a piece of a rubber glove in there and zip tie it in place? One more thing to note is to make sure you get DOT 3 brake fluid (or whatever the car says, it says DOT 3 for my 96, but it may have changed so check to be sure and buy what it says), and that you bleed in the order which the FSM dictates. Sounds like have a copy of that, so you should be able to find that no problem. That's about it. Or at least what I can think of for right now. -Kyle

So your wanting the length and size you'll need? Well I don't know of hand, but I seriously doubt you are going to find a line that exactly the right length to fit without cutting it (apart from buying it OEM). What I would do is (if you have a spare vehicle) take the line off, making sure to plug the hole for the distribution block, so the master doesn't run dry, take that to the auto parts store, where you can find a line that has the same diameter, and fittings you'll need. Pick up a tubing bender, cutter, and flaring tool, and boom, make your new line. Much easier said than done, but that's what I did when I had to replace the entire fuel, and rear brake lines on a friend's heavily corroded CR-V. -Kyle

http://autopartmaster.com/imgbank/cat/infinity/image.asp@imageid=AAC0001C&modifid=85600002 I think number 11060, is what your looking for, but there is another hose that runs from this part to the thermostat housing, maybe that's the culprit, but I haven't seen it leak. Part number is 1106021V00. "water outlet" -Kyle

Sounds like early signs of the "sway of death". Check rear bushings, especially rear panhard bar it's the bar at the back of the rear axle that runs parallel to it. It helps to keep the rear axle centered. Report back what you find. -Kyle