dynomax

If you have any luck, let me know. I am getting 10-11mpg city in thte winter, 12 in the summer, and 14mpg highway winter and 16 summer. 2004 model 3.5L. i have just accepted the fact that these things are pathetic on fuel... and awaiting my next upgrade. Friend of mine with a 2010 f150 5.4L gets 14 US mpg around town and 19 highway... maybe i need a ford... oh wait, i dont think i like domestic that much my 2012 4.8L chev work-owned pickup gets about the same mpg, little better on highway. air filters dont make a hill of beans difference unless they're caked with mud!

Been awhile since i've been on the board, but I just recently got pissed enough to look at my windows. I read all kinds of posts of spraying silicone and all kids of other crap down the guides front and rear, i bought some spray, and tried it out. no luck, no result. Howie, you can relate to me here, it is -23 deg C here, that is -10 deg F for the americans! -37 deg C with wind. anyway, NONE of my windows were going down, and any time after -10 deg C they were getting slow, and would go down.then when rolling up they would stop and go back down... Anyway, the silicone thing did NOT work for me in cold weather for sure. so i took the door panel off, and cleaned the track.. not the guides on the side but the track up the center of the glass. i used brake cleaner to clean off whatever factory (or someone else) put on it (grey looked like antisieze), and having nothing else, I grabbed some left over amsoil synthetic gear oil i put in my diffs... thinking something synthetic is not going to stiffen up like whatever was in there was doing. Anyway, so far so good, only 3 more windows to do... another night! If this post is still relavent, i could post some pics of the job. Someone has been in my door panel before for some reason, as the plastic was peeled back on both sides... maybe someone else tried lubing the rubber on the guides?? FYI, with the engine running or not running, the drivers window is at least twice as fast both up and down now. Will let you know if i find all door panels have been opened or what... when i do the other 3. Just glad I can get my tim hortons now without going in or opening the door, looking like an idiot!

I dunno, but with the key just on without engine running or on a cold day in the winter mine barely roll up! Any fix for that? All 4 are the same. They roll up good when its warm out and the trucks on ;P

Little update... heres the duratracs mounted on the painted wheels. Centre caps were left alone, they are slightly lighter. Sorry about the lack of mud, they just got mounted! Hunting season is right around the corner!

Nope, I degreased, sanded very well (used emory and steel wool in valve stem and lug nut holes) cleaned again for dust, primed twice. The next day I sprayed the duplicolor paint, 4 coats, 3 light, and a heavy final coat, and waited 10 mins between all coats. Waited 1 - 1.5 hrs, and did 2 coats of clear 3 medium coats. I got a little scared on the primer when it turned a bit white, but after reading about it that is normal temporary side effect of the duplicolor that went away after about 1 hour in the sun.

Well welcome to Canada. I am not sure about all trucks, but mine (bought used) had a block heater cord in the glove box that I have yet been able to figure out where the heck it plugs in! One thing I found that made my pathfinder a little cold-friendly was swapping out diffs for amsoil synthetic and i also put mobil 1 synthetic in the xfer and tranny, as well as engine. Last truck I had in the winter with conventional oil the oil light came on for 10-15 mins on cold days, swapped out for synthetic, and it never did it again. That sold me on synthetics (among other things!) Oh well, get some good winter rated tires too, like Duratrac!

245/75/16 Kindda regret not buying 265/75/16 now, but anyway, I'll try these out!

Just a comment, when I put my ironman springs in, all i disconnected was the shocks and links, I used a compressor to get the old one out and new ones in. So far, I am pretty happy with the ironman coils, aside from the fact that they aren't as tall as the AC truck around here the exact same color! > (but no CV probs with the auto hubs yet!)

Just thought I'd post a few pics of my recently painted wheels... My wheels clearcoat was undermined by years of salt and sand, so being cheap, I painted them rather than buy new ones. Monday when they have cured a bit I will finally mount my Duratrac's. Ever so happy to remove the Mickey Thompson baja ATZ!!! Pre-Condition, cleaned up a bit, and weights removed. Primed and Painted. I used duplicolor primer, and 4 coats (2 cans total) of duplicolor Graphite wheel paint. Clearcoated, 3 coats (2 cans) I am going to mount the duratracs white letters out, after some debate. There are a few runs, being the first set of wheels I've painted, and had a bit of an issue with the clear, that is a known duplicolor clear issue. I sprayed the first one, and about half way, it started turning white. So I went to the computer, and apparently the white goes away as it cures, and UV helps it, so I put them in the sun for a few hours, and it is basically gone, all except on the last one I did, and the sun was setting, so maybe a little more sun tanning tomorrow will fix it! All in all, for around $40, I think they look pretty good, the wheels were originaly polished face, and painted about the same grey color inside the spokes, now they are all graphite. I have somewhere around 4-6 hours in to them, including drinks

I had duratracs on my work (woods) truck (f150 2x4) and got 80k kms out of them , about 50k mi, but that was a lot of gravel, and snow covered woods road driving, and highway back and fourth. i would say 40k km highway, and 40 was gravel in summertime and snow covered winter roads. THey held up well and wore very even to my surprise, and i ran them low psi for good ride... about 28psi. To contrast that, i've had them on my new work truck (2012 chev 2x4) (new job, all city street driving) and at 12,000kms they are showing no wear, and very even much to my surprise for city driving. I am running them at about 38psi. All the reasons i bought a set for my pathfinder. I have micky thompson baja ATZ now at about 40psi on that. Guys at work are big on bfg AT, and getting no more than 60k kms (35mi) on them on halftons.

How many miles do you expect to get from those duratracs

I think I see the size in the pic, look like 245/75/16? what lift do you have on that? I have those duratracs still sitting in my garage, I gotta get my 5 spoke wheels painted first. they look good, i'm still debating the white letter in/out thing, but my truck is silver and black looks good on yours.

I've got mobil 1 synthetic, same as in my tranny

I thought you were just suppsoed to take them off... with a grinder

Sounds great, post some pics. Although everything I've read about air filters and mpg is they can be up to 75% clogged before even starting to make a difference in EFI engines... I would like to see the results, both mpg and physical results. Thinking of my airbox on my stock pathfinder, i'm not sure if the shape of it would allow the deck plate to be drilled out... I can picture it on the tacoma cause we just changed a buddies stock air box out...

well, they have a hum to them, I don't find them any louder than BFG AT's. I Think they're a bit louder than good year silent armors for sure, but definatly a lot quieter than my baja atz... How do you like those RS5000 shocks? they had them on sale, I just missed the sale tonight actually. $90/pc 2nd half off, so $135/pair.... maybe they're cheaper on line? I am still getting a clunk in my rear somewhere, i thought originally it was the bump stops, but its not, and its not the spare tire or rear gate... is it the end links or whatever they're called in the rear maybe? THey look original, and pretty cheap. the front drag links or end links were replaced with greasable moog's sometime before my aquisition of the truck. Not sure how to test those, i've checked with truck raised, and lowered, and can't find any play...?

I'm going to add a little update here on my ironman springs. I had a comment that they were too soft... I don't find the ride soft at all, I find it very close to my stock ride. I have a couple regrets though, well 3... not buying new wheels. buying spacers to give me 4.5" backspace, this is not enough backspace with the fender flares. I should have gone 3.75. 2, going with 245/75/16 again, I should have gone with 265/75/16. I have resigned to the fact that this truck will not give me better than 12 us mpg. 3. not doing it sooner. Recently I moved my 3800LB travel trailer about 100kms. when I hooked this thing up on my old stock springs, the fender flares started covering the tops of the tires... now it didn't even squat it 1", the truck still shows a bit of its 1.5" rake with the trailer on. Hauled as good as 3800lb can haul behind a pathfinder. Offroading, I haven't done much as I am just getting back in to some fishing holes, but my first trip, i certainly noticed the clearance increase, and it just seems to handle better. so, all in all, I have nothing to compare it to except stock, but for $120/pair, I am satisfied with the ironman lift, and met one of my goals, which was to lift without getting any strut topout... which I have none. By the way, ferrariowner asked how many miles on old coils, and it was 130,000kms (about 85,000mi) GO WITH DURATRACS, they are awesome. They beat the pants off the Mickey Thompson baja ATZs!!!! and quieter and run smoother... and i had 42psi in them when i was hauling my trailer.

That is a fact I didn't know and wouldn't expect. What are those wheels, I like them.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to disagree with you. The transfer case has a hydraulically operated muptiple clutch plate. torque is varied rear to front from 100% rear, to a maximum of 50/50. Even a hard acceleration can shift torque to the front, as well as wheel slippage, differences between front/rear driveshaft speed, throttle position sensor. I have not had my transfer case apart to look at all this operate, but from everything i've read, this is the design. It is not a 30/70 "AWD" sytstem, it is an automatic 4WD.

nope, it ranges from 0/100 to 50/50 front/rear based on rear wheel spin. It works pretty fast I would say, maybe not the best "awd" i have seen, but works well when I send the wife out with it.

My 04 Chinook has the allmode 4WD. Its actually not bad, i suppose, I don't use it, but if i send the wife out in teh snow, i tell her to snap it in.

I would be a little nervous to use the GPS. The accuracy of the GPS would be the first issue, and the second is, the GPS is merely averaging distance over time. If its averaging a sustained speed over a good distance, it might be fine, but from stop light to stop light, i'm positive its not going to be accurate. Slow in town speeds will not be very accurate because the distance is less than at say highway speeds over the same time. My two cents. Which won't count as of June, as Canada is losing the penny.. hah.

I find that impossible to believe actually. air filters in new engines don't make that kind of difference. My last tank, all city driving, i got 19.2L/100KM, that's 12.25 US mpg Was that 3mpg loss just one tank, or consistent over a few tanks? You make me not want 32's now

I found a guy locally (well, kind of locally, whos got the HD/MD. we're going to get togather and compare the two on a little wheelin trip. I wish I found him before I , ordered the Ironman Coils to try it out, but I still like the little bit of Rake my is appearing to have. I know most ppl here like the level look, but I like a little rake like you'd see on a halfton. His is on a 1999 and he's running the duratracs! (I thought nobody liked these tires, but the more I dig in to them, the more I like them. I've been running duratracs since 2008! I find them maybe a little soft in the rear (softer than I was expecting, they seem to have a good spring rate, but seem to almost squirm a bit when offroad. I may find them soft because before I was basically a hardtail with the rear riding on the bump stops... haha. I think my shocks are gone. whats the deal on the bilsteins... are they good or what?

I like it, the look without the flares makes your wheel backspacing look less, and the lift taller. I contemplate taking mine off, but not sure how to deal with the holes. What backspacing are those wheels?