dynomax

I haven't tested mine yet. But in my F150 with the 2" leveling kit I was getting flashed after installarion. I adjusted the headlights down a bit. the ford was easy, not sure how to do it on these r50's... never looked.

Thinking back, we used the claw type to compress it just a little at first, in order to get the ubolt compressors on at their maximum compression, then just used the claw ones for safety. the claw ones tended to slip and slide around the coil, where the ubolt type stayed across from each other and tended not to slide sideways. I haven't found the spring rate of the ironman 4x4 coils yet,. but im going to find it somewhere!

First of all, thanks to many many people here, and threads new and old for all the help on the lift and other R50 questions. OK, heres the pics. 2 pre lift pics Post Lift Pics CV Angle SPring compressor I used Too bad my goodyear Duratracs are not on yet, but I'm going to wear a little more out on these baja ATZ. I am also going with black sidewalls when i mount my duratracs... i think they give the tire a bigger appearance. Lift was the Ironman4x4 35mm lift coils. I bought them from Camel4x4. Eli is pretty good to deal with but very hard to get ahold of, shipping was FAST. I think he is out of New Jersey. I paid 120 per pair USD, shipping was around 27 bucks to the usa (i picked them up in the usa and brought them back to canada) added 1.5" wheel spacers giving me 4.5" backspace instead of my 6" overbite backspace. Lift went on very very well for someone who has never changed a coil spring in his life and another guy who helped me who as only done one pair of rear coils on his jeep. first time taking a strut apart for both of us. I kept stock struts they were in great shape, and the rear shocks are still quite good, but i may swap out. Ride has improved for sure. not stiffer noticeably stiffer, but handles much better. Why did I go with Ironman? Because nobody here did! haha, no not really... I was worried about the strut top out, and didn't really NEED a lift, but NEEDED to change my coils, and the ironman coils were cheap compared to even after market coils at stock height. I'm glad I did the ironman to give you guys a bit of insight on how it goes over the next while. I do have the bulldog look on the front wheels with regard to camber, but i'm going to drive it a week then get it lined up... not sure if i need camber bolts or not... but i will buy them and bring them with me.

Sure, I don't advocate anyone do it that doesn't feel comfortable, but for me who has never taken a strut out, or changed even a regular coil spring, this was a good video. I mostly used it to help in the strut removal process, thhe pics at the end I never looked at. And I compressed my lift springs (Mine were Ironman vs OME/AC, I'm sure hte AC have a higher spring rate than the ironmans for sure) with standard compressors (the with the U bolts on them that go around the spring), and used a second set for safety(??!?) With my springs, at no point did I feel unsafe in what I was doing. I would recomend this type of compressor I borrowed with the ubolts, compared to the typical kind, they don't slide and shift like those. This was the compressor I used on the struts: http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-Spring-Compressor-W80555/dp/B000NHWP8U Compressing these was nowhere the deal I thought it was, and I would do this again (but not real soon) I found a couple differences. My truck has apparently after market moog drag links, and there was a 19mm nut on the back to hold while you took the 18m nut off the stud. This was a lot nicer than having to use an allen key and a crescent wrench. i was able to use my electric (oh I know i'm sad) impact. I have airtools , but only a 4 gallon compressor -- haha.

Took some pre-lift pics, and i'll take some post lift pics tomorrow when its light. Ironman 35mm lift coils. 5.5 HRS install time, with a pizza and beer break. struts were in great shape and all associated parts, rear was fine also... shocks are good (might still change anyway. Prelift measurements: FL 32 3/4" -- 34 1/4 FR 33 -- 34 1/2 RL 31 1/2 -- 34 1/4 RR 31 3/4 -- 34 1/2 So about 1.5" front, and 3" in rear or so. rear coils were shot completely. Pics to follow. Front was no issue, used 2 sets of compressors, rear just dropped shocks, and used 1 set of compressors.

Heres a video i watched a couple times on an 02 pathfinder. The guy is pretty detailed until he gets to compressing the spring, then it just goes to photos. hes actually just changing the strut bearing, but gives a good video of the strut removal anyway.

How would the 1" strut spacer be any harder on the CV than the 2" lift coil?

When I was tire shopping, I compared side by side a goodyear Duratrac (which I bought), and the BFG AT KO. THE BFG had a wider footprint if you will in the same size tire when compared to the Duratrac. We used to run those Cooper ST's at work here, and they have a wider, sprawling tread like the BFG AT KO did. I guess What i'm trying to say is it looks like the Goodyear would fit a little better when the backspace was getting tight where the BFG may not, as the Goodyear appears to narrow in a bit with its tread footprint, where the bfg kind of sprawls out the side a little more. Did anyone else notice this in their tire experience?

I know you did your own front coils, as I am planning this weekend, did you have any issues compressing the springs enough to reassemble the front strut?

Ten four, so adding manual hubs to my pathfinder which now I assume has drive flanges will not work then. i also have the auto 2wd. I wish I Had a 5spd with the lever 4wd! But I got an auto with the allmode 4wd The AUTO is kind of useful when i send my wife out with it though in the winter.

I wonder if it would be possible I have an auto hub locked full time or something? How can I check my auto hubs?

Ford is famous for that. The last F150 I had (2008) did not have drain plugs, and I had a couple ford crown vic's and you had to crack the tranny pan and rear end to change fluids. now that's nice. picture 13L of ATF fluid just running everywhere... I am not sure I will ever buy another domestic. Ever since I ditched ford and chev (never had any dodge) and went to Honda, Toyota and Nissan I've had much less for problems. However, as much as I want a Tundra, I really don't want the poor fuel economy that comes with it, or the extra $10-12000 new or used. I can swallow a lot of ATF and put a lot of ball joints in for $12,000. My F150 was a 2008, had 110,000KMS on it when I got rid of it, and I put basically all new front end parts, and one new lower control arm, and the cab mounts needed changed. Not to mention the 2 complete rear differentials (First one at 60,000KMS under warranty, second not long after), one set of bearings after that, pinion seal, and at least one u joint. I am not even sure if I didn't have to put a driveshaft in that, becuase the hanger bearing went bad and was all part of it. But the motor was solid as a rock... So, ask me, why would I buy another ford? I feel like pounding the piss out of my pathfinder just to prove to myself that its better and I don't ever want another ford truck!

I like the theroy, only reverse it...I would have thought a black truck would look best (like boosted's) with the OWL Out, and black out on the light color like my silver truck.

Now I want a bush guard... your truck is the same color as mine for good comparison. So did you install the ome 922 rears or switch to AC lift? Man, i'm still not sure if i'm going down the right path with my Ironman lift (4 days away from install now... i really am counting down the days) As a teaser I bolted one side of wheel spacers on to see how that'll look and jacked the body up to sim my lift... i'm getting a little excited and carried away....

I've converted mine over to all synthetic fluids and did the air filter/fuel filter and plugs,maf clean, throttlebody clean over this winter, i'll wait until the winter mix gas is not used anymore, and re-evaluate, before i head down the o2 sensor or something else road. Maybe 12mpg is all its going to get in the winter. I run 91octane, which here has no ethanol, our 87 and 89 has 10 and 5% respectively.

I've heard this number quoted several times, but if you look at fueleconomy.gov, the 2wd comparable year pathfinder is only getting 1mpg better city and highway, so how would anyone get 2-3mpg better... I am not trying to be rude, just trying to seek ways to get mine up from my last tank of 11.5 US MPG

Hey, I like your sig pic... but is it just me or is a headlight out in that pic... its been bugging me for awhile ... not sure if its an optical illusion or really out

Well I hope my theory of the rubbing bump stops is the cure, because the suspension looks good. I found in the shop manual some stock measurements for my vehicle, measured from the ground to the fender, the rear is supposed to be 34.96. With my truck in my shop, it measures 31.75, so with my lift I should gain a good 4.5" same as yours. Pretty poor rear OEM coils... which is a big reason I did not want to put them back in.

I started hearing a clunk in my rear over the last month too. Is it possible my sagging suspension is giving me some noise from the bump stop? At rest, it is sitting very very low and looks like it may be rattling. Anyhow, i've had it jacked up twice in the last few weeks banging on everything and can't find anything loose. Lift is going on next weekend, so if its the truck sitting too low allowing the bump stops to hit, that should be fixed.

Yeah, immagine how they look! The 1.5" spacers will fix that.

So everything finally came in to my PO Box in Maine (I live in Canada). I am still figuring on doing this myself, for cost, and the satisfaction... Not sure theres any immediate danger... I am generally pretty safe... and i'll try to stay on the safe side of the springs when compressing and removing nuts etc... Got the springs home, and want to know if theres anything that strikes anyone about these springs. Front is on the left, rear on right. Is there a top and bottom to the rears, as they look the same, the front one has one end smaller, i'm assuming thats the top??? Ironman mentioned some springs are marked NS and DS (near side and drivers side) if there is a difference, but nothing is marked on either of these... front or rear to indicate side. First thing I noticed, is the extra coil compared to stock, but thats common to the AC and OME from the other pics you guys have posted. (And the obvious yellow color) Also, another pic that was sitting on the camera of me measuring my backspace, an unbelievable 6" factory wheel.

Yeah $60 USD, I am in canada, its $80!

Just picked up my 245/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs. $829 installation included, $80 mail in rebate to come... good deal I think. Whats the opinion here on the Outline White Letter tires? Should I put the Goodyear Wrangler Currently my Mickey Thompsons are mounted OWL out, and I don't like them. What do you guys think? Only white letters I like are on the BFG AT KO's and MT's. I find that black makes the tire appear larger... My current wheels, i'm painting graphite color with Duplicolor Graphite wheel paint.

I had to unbolt that carbon filter or that air box or whatever it is that hangs at the back (drivers side i think it was). There are 3 predrilled and theaded holes for the bolts. Two of the bolt holes (2 each side) held originally the tie down, and the 3rd was left open for i'm assuming a hitch, because thats what bolted in to it. The Reece hitch had 3 bolts per side (new bolts came with it). I used one of the bolts from the factory tie down to clean up the threads on the 3rd hole that was not in use and had no bolt in it before threading the reese bolts in. You also want to torque them down... 110 i think... not sure Hidden Hitch and Reese I believe are the same hitch, but i'm sure all will work. For your trailer lights you can just get the T adapters that fit right in between the harness going to each tail light... makes it a breeze for $20 or so.

Check out this thread, it was very helpful in my (continuing) adventure of lifting my R50. http://forums.nicoclub.com/suspension-lifts-101-t491011.html Not to say theres not good info here, because this forum is the best as far as R50 info goes, but I stumbled on this one, and had it referenced a few times on this board too.