dynomax

Those wheels are the same as on my 04. Mine are in horrible condition due to the salt and calcium on the roads here. I'm going to paint mine with Duplicolor graphite. theres a couple good youtubes on it.

Ordered my Ironman 35mm/1.4" lift, but wondering about the camber bolts. I am not going with strut spacers or leveling kit, just the 35mm spring front and rear. Everything I Read on the AC lift is you need at least 1 or 2 camber bolts... What about OME, and what i got... the Ironman? Am I ok, because Ironman site says nothing about camber bolts, and I can't find anything saying OME needs it either. Will the alignment shop not have camber bolts, or are the vehicle specific or what? Anyhow, I didn't order any with my lift, should I?? I don't know what to do with them, will my alignment man?? He's even skeptical I will be able to line it up for some reason!

10L/100KM is actually not poor, its 28 Imp. MPG/24 USMPG, 20L/100KM is 14 Imp MPG/12 USMPG. No pathfinder here gets that 20L/100KM makes sense to me, its just the inverse of what you think is normal, miles per unit. I am Canadian, and grew up in Metric, so it makes sense to me, and all canadian vehicles with the onboard economy measure use L/100KM

Just for fun today after I put my new Iridium IX plugs in, I went for a little cruise (it actually wasn't that fun). Just for your comparison, mine is revving 2200-2250 at 100km/hr (62mph) locked the cruise control on and it was flat for a couple clicks. When is the USA going to join the rest of the world in metric Imperial MPG, US MPG, L/100KM, KM/L. Let's standardize this stuff! Should add thats on 245/75/16's

That is not right at all. 245 is the width, the middle number is a percentage of the width (65% of 245mm). Try this site, its really good: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

How do you like those duratracs on yours? WHat size are they. I bought my pf used with micky thompson baja atz, and replacing with goodyear duratracs. i'm using the ironman 1.4" lift and was thinking of sticking with the 245/75/16 because duratracs don't seem to have much selection for size!

Did the R50's of the 2001-2004 vintage come with anything other than an LSD? There wouldnt be any open diffs on these 4wd trucks would there?

Want to switch my rear and front diff out for synthetic. Problem is, I can't find GL-5 80W90 in syntheitc, only GL-5 75W90. Only Syn I can find here is the motormaster (Canadian tire) brand which I'm not going to use and Valvoline SynPower. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/grease-gear-oil/gear-oil/59 Mine is the HG43 LSD, i did the spin test, jacked up, spun wheel, both spin same way, so I know I need the LSD oil, and it calls for 80W90 So is the 75W90 syn too light? Am I right going syntheitc? I use mobil 1 syn Motor & ATF oil now. I also lvie in Canada, and todays temp is -17 deg C (0deg F)

Not finding much on the LFR5AIX-11 (4469) vs the PLFR5A-11 (6240) I'm having a hard time chewing the $110 for OEM Plaitnums vs $65 for the Iridium IX 4469. Perhaps this is because the iridium IX wasn't around when the VQ came out? Either way, is there any negative (or positive) to putting the Iridium IX in? Update: Well, just happened I was in the store on another mission, and they were on sale $8/pc. That might seem high, but this is Canada, and everything is high! Reg around here is just shy of $10 at my regular parts store w/ my work pricing. Anyway, I will update when these things go in.

I wore my set to 80k KMS (49k mi). this was about half gravel roads and half highway (60-65mph). Not one flat. that was on an ext cab F150 2wd. 2008.

Just filled up again with 91 octane, put 60miles on it, still getting 21.3L/100KM (11.04US MPG). This is after my fresh mobil 1 synthetic oil change 5w30, fresh mobil 1 ATF swap, cleaned MAF again, and did the ECU reset. No CEL My next move are plugs (80K on originals)? am i missing something? I have the diffs on my list too but i can't see that being substantial in making MPG gains?

Sounds like the same results i've had. they are the best clearing AT i've ever had or seen work. I would put them against the BFG MT which i have not had, but seen in action. Why does Goodyear class them a "Commercial" AT? and the Silent Armor "AT"

I'm going to comment on that. I'm coming from a fullsize halfton past in to a pathfinder (my first suv, besides my bronco) (Yes, I have alwyas been a domestic man, fords actually -- now in to a honda and a nissan, and next will be a toyota!) Anyway. The MT's are great in deep powder snow, but thats never the case where I live, its deep powder only before its plowed off, then its packed snow, and ice. MT's perform terribly in this, the AT's in my experience are much much better. On my halftons I have ran many tires, but the most recent have been: Kelly Safari, BFG ATKO, Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor, Goodyear Duratrac, and my pathfinder came with Micky Thompson baja ATZ on it. (All in that order) The Baja ATZ compares to the Safari TSR, OK summer tire, horrible in snow, and the ATZ louder on highway. The BFG ATs were an upgrade as far as snow goes, but about half wear turned terrible, and are terrible in mud of any kind or wet snow from new to 50%. The Silent armors were an upgrade from the BFG ATKO in terms of traction in snow, but the treadwear suffered a bit I found. I got about 60k kms out of them (These were 4PLY THOUGH!!!) My next tire on the halfton was duratracs, got substantially better wear, and snow traction was better, and wear was better also (got 80k kms out of them). These Mickey Thompson baja atz are possibly the worst tire i've ever had on anything, and they will be coming off after my lift and before next snowfall with likely 75K kms on them (the truck came with them or I would have put duratracs on). The new tires for me will be 245/75/16 duratracs 6 PLY or 265/75/16 if i choose to go bigger (which i'm not 100% convinced I want to do!) So, theres my summary, and to summarize, get a Duratrac! The

I just did this last night with mobil 1 synthetic. i am sure this truck never had it changed yet (80K mi). Took it for a drive, it used to hang 3-4 shift, doesnt now, and is just smoother all around. old fluid looked the color of slightly used motor oil. I would have done the drain and fill if i thought it had been taken care of every 30k mi, but i don't think it has been! I am going to carry on with drain and fill in the future now that I am full of synthetic.

Just did that actually. I reset the ECU following some instructions on another board also. Over on thenissanpath, i used the 1st reset option. not sure what that will do if anything.

I am still in the process of going through the maintenance items on this truck, but maybe a little prioritization on the more important ones or where I might get an MPG gain. (The ironman lift is taking me off maintenance item course ;P) New spark plugs don't look as cool as 1.5" I just fueled up, I reset my trim meter every tank and always check it (don't log it, just mentally). 25.2L/100KM, thats 9.29US MPG. These last 2 tanks I went back to 87octane, typically I run 91 (we have ethanol in our 87 at 10%, but not in the 91octane) Same driving, with 91octane 22-23L/100KM (10.5USMPG). I do all city driving, just the odd bypass here and there, but we'll call it all city. Summertime, I get 19L/100KM (thats 12.3US MPG) all city Last big trip all highway was 14.5L/100KM(16US MPG) avg (45mph roads and 65mph road mix) 2004 Chinook 3.5L Automatic 4x4 Auto hubs Run synthetic motor oil air filter is new fuel filter is brand new MAF cleaned plugs are original with 130k kms on them (80k mi) i'll assume everything else is original also tires a a bit over stock (245/75/16 vs 70/16) probally not enough to affect mileage too much no CEL (Ever since I've had it) Comes up to temp really well Next on my list in this order are new plugs -- Do these really last 100k mi???? (ngk 6240's) and transmission fluid drain fill with mobil 1 synthetic), and diffs w/ synthetic So is my mileage abnormal, or is there a quick fix for MPG or am I getting what everyone else gets?

Yeah, whats the original backspace of the wheels on the front of the red one, and what size spacer did he use? Whats the back also? I measure my wheel like your red buddys one and i get 6" (Maybe 5.75).

Maybe Fleurys or silverypathy will chime in. I think i saw a pic of silverpathys beside a red one wearing 33's with the same stock wheels as mine. Do you have the same wheels as me? What do yours measure? I'm sure they are the same. I can't tell from your avatar pic. I might take them off after this next big snowstorm... i have the sled in the garage right now.

Nope not 100%, I looked at a FAQ on measuring backspacing somewhere... http://www.vintagewheelworks.com/tech-backspace.php Here I think, and used that. I laid a piece of wood across the insude lip of the wheel (where you would mount a weight) and measured with my tape measure to the surface that would sit next to the rotor/drum.\ Am I Wrong? 6" almost doesn't make sense on a 7" wide wheel does it! These wheels sure sit in a lot more than the double tri spoke type, or the other 6 spoke type I see around

Well, after bothering many people here, and getting snubbed never, and getting great answers the rest of the time, I Think I have my package togather. Questions: Was this pathfinder originally raked a bit? Mine beasures 31.25" front to fender, and 30.5" in rear. What would this have been stock? Anyone else with Ironman springs? I have found one other R50 out there with them! Prelift state: Good shape for a snow belt vehicle, i've been undercoating it and driving for a couple years. 128k kms (80k mi) stock everything and original everything as I can tell 16x7 stock wheels are the ugly 5 spokes as seen below, with 6" (Uggh!) Backspacing Post-lift: Sticking with stock struts, stock shocks (until i see how it rides and tops out?) then may change as per group recomendations Ironman 35mm 1.5" Wheel spacers (Thanks Fleurys), giving stance, but allowing for the 31.6" tire (in case I go with my choice goodyear duratrac in the 265/75/16). Either way, if I fit a tire bigger than a 31.6 i'll need new wheels and i'll get the bigger BS then. I use this as a daily driver and traveling 1hr to my camp, so 31.7" should do that! Until then the Micky Thompson baja atz 245/75/16 (don't ever buy these tires) will stay on, until jumping to same size or bigger duratrac Cost is an issue, but I must deal with my sagging stock springs, which is why I'm keeping stock wheels, they're going to get a coat of the duplicolor wheel paint just before I mount the new duratracs which are required real soon to replace my worn out ATZ's. I am ordering this monday, it will be about $400 Canadian taxes in. OME Lift I could likely get here for about $450 Canadian, and the AC Lift will be closer to $600. So it came to a cost thing, and what am i going to be using this for? Not to its full potential, I hunt in the fall, and go to my camp and other camps in the summer. Went Ironman because the rear lift is the same as the front lift (as opposed to the OME). I am willing to live with a bit of rake, as I do haul my util trailer frequently and expect with the OME i would get some Sag down the road. if the Ironman sags to level, thats fine too... i'd rather start out a bit raked, rather than go try to fix the saggy ass syndrome again down the road. (Does this make sense, or am I off the mark??) So, I've never tackled coil springs, or springs in a strut (Anyone in New Brunswick wanna help ) but I think I can figure it out! From what I read, with OME theres no need to replace camber bolts, so i'll keep what i have. Ironman shouldnt be any different. Thanks again for all the help, and responses to my questions here. By far the best board out there, and has most available resource for an R50! I am open to all feedback, negative and positive, if I'm going wrong anywhere here! Prelift vehicle: I measured this when I had it in the garage buffing it last night, front to fender measured 31.25" and rear 30.5" on that side. Ugly Stock wheels that I'm keeping ($$$) Saggy Ass Stock Coils:

I haven't yet to find one pick of an R50 lifted with Ironman! I can get them local here for $185/pair. Something tells me If I have to order in AC and ship across border, i'll be in the $500 range or more. For a guy keeping stock struts I might be better off with the 35mm Ironman!

No chance you are going to make some 2" strut spacers like the ones you have on your site (and in your signature). If All I can get is a 1" strut spacer and choose to go this route, what rear coils would work well to match that? I don't need a huge lift, and and trying to keep my cost down without replacing shocks/struts.

What BS is that wheel? I'm trying to mount a 265/75/16 duratrac on these wheels: http://gtcarlot.com/data/Nissan/Pathfinder/2001/3735147/Wheel-39142998.html

What is the BS of your wheels? Do you have the same ones as me? I have the 5 fat spoke ones: http://gtcarlot.com/data/Nissan/Pathfinder/2001/3735147/Wheel-39142998.html I tried measuring them, i'm getting 5 3/4" or 6" measured from the inside back to the outside of the wheel where the weight would clip on. With that math, i'd need 1.5 or 2" wheel spacers? I want the same tire man... Duratracs are great here in the snowbelt, and awesome in the mud... way better than BFG AT's

Thanks for clearing that up. I didn't realize the Snake was a mid mount. I was thinking it was a top mount. What I was thinking of doing was a top mount spacer, so I can keep my oem spring and strut, and new coils in the rear (OME coils) is what I was thinking. If Snake is a mid mount, I am not interested anyhow. I was hoping for an OME coil in the rear, and whatever mm front top mount spacer combo to level the whole truck out. Thanks any jeff, any suggestion on my attempt