dynomax

I went out on a limb here by myself, and went with the iron man springs from Camel4x4. http://www.camel4x4.com/merchant2/ I will do a little review when I get them on (which was supposed to be sat, but parts didnt come in yet). But not having another AC or OME lift to compare to, it might not be a real in depth review I was going to get OME, but for the price, i went with the 1.4" OME to get the natural rake back in my R50

Edmonton Alberta... opposite end of the spectrum! Did your pathfinder have those factory tie downs on it before you put the hitch on it? How do you use it for recovery, do you have a 2" hitch with a hook on it or something? What about the front, what do you people use for recovery... those two factory tie downs on the front look like they aren't real tough...

Class III is 2", 5000-5500LB. I have never seen a III smaller than that (or bigger). 3" not as common as a 2.5" ... not sure i've ever seen a 3" most pickups come with a class IV (4) 10,000-12000lb hitch with around 1000-1200lbs tongue weight class V hitches are up to 18,000lbs, You will not find or need a class IV for a pathfinder as they are rated for 5000lbs only.

Installing the hitch is very easy... the hardest part is getting it up in place while you get the first couple bolts in. Not sure where you are, but most auto stores will have a 4 wire flat install kit that simply taps in to the connectors for the tail lights on either side of the rear. I got a Reece hitch, only because it was 25% off, and in stock. 2" receiver, 5500lb, 500 tongue. My 04 pathfinder had a couple factory tie downs that were held on with 2 bolts each side. the tie downs and bolts go in the garbage, and the newly supplied hardware is used. Like I said, its very easy, theres no qualification needed for this. if you can change your oil, the hitch will be easier. If you need trailer brakes, I would get that done. I helped a buddy put them in his chev truck, and even in that it was prewired under the dash for the controller, and it still took us 3 hours. A good shop can do this in an hour.

I think I had those exact wheels on my 1984 crown victoria

If I ever need a picture of anything pathfinder related, i'll ask you. My springs were not in at the pickup spot in Houlton,ME yesterday, so i have not yet got my springs & Spacers I guess next saturday will be the day. The spacers were there, but no sign of the springs. My springs by the way came from camel 4x4. Only one other person here I know of ordered from him, that I have found. I'll be sure to do a good review of the springs when I Get em on. I'm leaning towards bilsteins for the rear when the time comes.

Looked at a 2005 Pathfinder today, 170,000kms on it (40,000 more than my 2004 R50). Its suffering spring sag as bad or worse than my 2004 R50... What is it with the springs in the back of these things? Am I going to get the same results with my Ironman springs after 120,000kms? Maybe I'm just not used to rear coil springs, but I have never in any vehicle I had changed springs (unless I broke a leaf spring!). Anyway.... I hope my Ironman variable rate springs help me in hooking on to my 3800LB travel trailer for its maiden voyage this summer.

I decided to stick with my factory wheels. I'm going to paint them duplicolor graphite color. I like yours with the white letters turned in. I think the solid black sidewalls make a tire appear larger than it is. The only white letters I like are the BFG AT KO but I don't like those tires!

Well thanks. I still find this weird though. Mines got 245/75/16 w/ 6"BS, and i have nowhere near that even at the outside of that strut plate with wore out tires! Anyway, my new duratracs will fit! Funny thing I noticed on the goodyear site,the 245/75/16 duratrac measures 30.7" and the silent armour measures 30.6. I wonder if this is due to and including tread depth?

legally here a 4axle can be 55,500KG(122000lbs), and a class B train can be 62,500 (137,000lbs) That after math looks pretty bad... nothing but a frame left

This isn't really directed at you, this was just the last post in the thread... Well the backspacing is 6". I measured it and took a picture, because nobody ever believes me. So, my wheel spacers and IronMan 1.5" coil springs are in Houlton. Provided they let me cross the border in to the USA, I am going to pick them up Saturday March 24. I have one pair of spring compressors, other than that, all the tools I have are regular wrenches and sockets. I have 2 axle stands and my own floor jack and a borrowed jack. I don't have a good 3.5TON jack, but rather the smaller $40 variety... I hope that will be enough. I haven't found many good how-to's but it seems pretty straight forward on the rear... raise the rear, support it with axle stand support rear end with a jack? (one side at a time, or both at a time???) disconnect bottom of shock (any need to take top off, or just to get it out of the way??) disconnect axle end of panhard bar, and disconnect the 2 bolts holding up the upper sway bar bracket (look like 2x 12 or 14mm??) drop the springs out, compressing a bit with spring compressor if necessary?? Mine look pretty saggy looks like they might fall out anytime! \Front struts, I found a good vid on youtube of an old guy changing the whole unit, looks pretty easy (he didn't hsow the compressor and spring change, but rather the removal of the strut assembly...) I am an average backyard mechanic mostly only done basic stuff brakes, plugs, change all my own fluids, oil & tranny pans a couple times... I have never done any springs before strut or rear coil... Any reason I should not attempt this swap myself? My mechanic tells me he'd charge me 3hrs to do it if he did it....

I know a set of Mickey Thompsons I hate, are the Baja ATZ. Reconsider these if they were on your list. I thought BFG AT's were bad in mud and snow. My Duratracs should be here Monday thankfully!

Yeah, I have a couple not sure what brand, but when mine goes, i'm going to try a Lincoln. Thanks for the diagram on the driveshafts... I am not sure why i couldn't find them. i'll look again tonight!

Mine is a 4x4. Its got 130,000KMS right on the nose. I put new plugs in also, and run synthetic motor & tranny oil. Air filter is also new. Truck runs like a top and starts easy every time. Plugs made no difference in power or economy. Also cleaned MAF twice now. I looked for grease nipples all around that driveshaft where the U joint is, can't find one on the front or rear!! 2004 it is. If you have any suggestions on the MPG, I am more than open, I've done all the cheap & easy stuff... and I run nothing but supreme 91 octane as our 87 octane has 10% ethanol in it. Last summer I did run some regular, but never noticed a difference on the couple tanks i tried.

I got them at Provincial Bandag Tire. They are only here in NB as far as I know, and are known more for retread truck tires.

i think parts of them are fibreglass and the roof rack or fibreglass cap. that would shatter, especially below 0 deg C Someone said that was an F150... didn't look like an F150 to me?

Nice size. I'm sticking with my current 245/75/16 but i just got mine locally, they wer egoing to be cheaper to buy in US and bring back to Canada, but I found them locally for $179 installation included. Plus in Canada there is a $80 (vs $60 US) mail in rebate. Can't beat that price! The mail in rebate is from Goodyear, check out their site for info... so wherever you buy em mail in your receipt.

Thanks again for the info. Update to this. I just finished all the fluids. Could not find a fluid pump at a good price, so i improvised that. $32 for a lincoln pump... i think not. I used a chunk of 3/8 plastic hose i had around, a hose clamp, and a 500ml squeeze bottle i think my wife used to decorate cookies with hahaa.. i cut the nipple a bit wider and clamped about 8" of hose on to it. I used amsoil sever gear 75-90 front and rear, ended up using just over 3qt rear, and just over 2qt front. transfer case i used mobil 1 synthetic (mine took about 2.5L). It previously had gear oil in it... lighter than 75-90... 70-80 maybe?? it was DARK! Worse than either differential! I hope I made the right move going with ATF in the transfer case rather than whatever gear oil i drained out. Motor is already mobil 1 synthetic and so was transmission. So, did it improve fuel economy?? Well, it can't get worse than 12mpg can it? We'll see! Shes all synthetic... and best thing I'm sure none of the diffs or xfer case have been done before.

Well, I have an opinion on that too. My 04 Chinook has the 5 spoke fat 16x8 wheels With 6" backspacing, and they look set in way too far. I see other pathfinders with the same wheels and no flares, they look great, but a 4.5" offset is what I need on mine with the flares.

There appears a good Youtube video on this, but its for an X Terra. I was kind of thinking it was the same as my R50 which is going to need some new rotors soon. Are the captive rotors on my R50 more than typical rotors i'm used to?

I'm gonna make a sig photo like yours, man thats the best pic and great looking truck... I've still gotta paint my stock wheels which might be more work than I want. Heres my math. Spacers and stock wheels: $120 Spacers $50 (1x etching primer, 1x clear, 2x paint -- all duplicolor) $? results questionable? $? labor $? loss of hub centering ring on both spacer and stock wheel since new bore is 108mm vs. $260 new 15" $380 new 16" I'm going with 245/75/16 duratracs, I Bet the 31x10.50r15 are cheaper... if i can save a bit there and dump these spacers I might do that. I see them online for $89 for 16x8's and $59 for 15"x8 plus $20 shipping to the border... I live close enough to the US that I can run over and get them Where are you again? aren't you in Canada too? If so, where'd you get yours? I'm looking on http://www.4wheelparts.com/Pro-Comp-Rock-Crawler-Steel-Wheels.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=209&t_pt=100021 Which series are yours? No issues clearing the calipers etc that i've read about?? Do they have the 100mm bore to line up with the pathfinder?

You're going to open the hubcentric lug centric thing again. I went with non hub centric, because of cost. Hub centering rings are available for some wheels, hub rings center the wheel on the hub, and after they serve that purpose they are done. They do not help support the wheel at all after its centered, thats the job of the lug nuts and studs. Some people will try to tell you different -- they are wrong. I will let you know in about 3 weeks when I Get my lift and spacers installed. From what I'm told by people here, and mechanic friends, properly torqued wheels will be fine. Keep in mind many after market wheels don't have the right hub size anyway. The spacers I bought are actually 108mm bore, where my pathfinder is 100mm bore. I will be relying solely on the lug to center my spcaers and wheels both. I will let everyone know if i run in to any issues. If i could find some rock crawlers cheap, i would get them, but i don't really want to shell out $400 right now, vs $120 for non hub centric spacers. My stock wheels are 6" Backspacing, and I wnat 4.5"

Set out with my Amsoil tonight, did the rear end first, and I think I read a post for the wrong year Pathfinder. My owners manual and the online copy I have states no capacity for rear or front diff. I read 2.8L rear and 1.5L front but I think that was a WD21. Anyway, I have about 3.2qt in the rear. Anyone know if this is correct? What about the front, what do I need for that? I have just shy of 2QT left. My rear end is the HG43 4.3 LS. Not sure on the front? I thought there was a post on this, but the pinned one was for WD21. Thanks, sorry if this is in another thread, I can't seem to find it in my searches.

Yeah, thats why I like this forum so much. Lots of good info. I found Amsoil 75W90 and 80W90 locally, $12.19/jug (not sure if its a Qt or L bottle... either way both are close). I am going to pick it up today and swap this out this weekend. I am convinced when taking off from a cold start the gear oil is still thick. I know when I switched from dyno to synthetic motor oil my morning starts in cold temperatures are much easier. I had an F150 before this, and before switching to synthetic, the oil light would stay on for about 10 minutes on cold start mornings until warmed up... but would never come on in the summertime.

As I want for next month's lift install when I have a week off that I don't need my truck to get to work... thought i'd change the diffs & xfer case I Was just about to walk out with 5L of royal purple ($22/L) 75/90 today, and the second option was Lucas($15/L)... Glad I bought neither! This white paper on gear lube was a surprisingly interesting read. http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=lucas%2075w90%20gear%20oil%20reviews&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.synthetic-oil-tech.com%2FGear%2520Lube%2520White%2520Paper.pdf&ei=gERhT8miF6nz0gHQ8N2kBw&usg=AFQjCNEBEzgKLQvyLS1II1GfRl8rhAaQ_Q&cad=rja Anyway, I will have to search out some M1 or Amsoil (have yet to find any Amsoil product in this city, so M1 might be my only choice).