1994SEV6

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NO_75210_0006411584 Got it. It's called Napa Premium Performance Gear Oil 80w-85w-90. It's not synthetic. Is that important? It also doesn't state if it's gl-4 or gl-5, but I got it from a site that Sewebster provided and it said that it was gl-4. It's made by Ashland which is Valvoline I think.

wait a minute..$100 of redline in your trans? Amazon sells redline for $13 ea. 5quarts x 13= $65?

I've been working on my truck these past few days, and this guy who lives a building over sometimes sees me and comes over. He is hispanic and doesn't have the best english. I actually have no idea how well he speaks english because he says "yes" to almost everything I say. He told me some cool stories actually. He's from Guatemala and he owns 2 D21s, a WD21, and a 94 Toyota truck back in Guatemala. I'm pretty jealous. He was telling me stuff about D21s that I didn't even know and that I've never even heard about. Anyway. Over here in the US, he drives a R50. It's actually a really nice little thing. He told me that his brother or someone had a slight accident and broke the holder for the headlight. The headlight itself is perfect, but it is not secured properly. I looked the best I could, and it looks like there are 2 screws on the top that kind of 'pop' into a little plastic clip. The screws have a bulge at the head that slides into the clip and the bulge expands the clip a little bit and secures the headlight. One of the screws was fastened properly, but one of the screws had slid out of the clip. I put it back in properly, and the headlight was still loosely secured. He was telling me that there is a third, and possibly a fourth, screw on the bottom. And he says those clips are broken or something? The turn signal light is also loosely secured. It looks like the turn signal has this rubber trim inside of it that comes out to make the grille trim. It almost seemed like the pinching of the rubber into the body was securing the blinker, but there must be a screw. ANYWAYS.. what I'm asking for help on is a diagram or a really good explanation. I can't find one in the FSM. The FSM only shows two short pages about the grille removal and it doesn't talk about the headlights at all. I want to get a picture of the bracket system for this guy and possibly a part number. He wants to go to the junkyard, but I don't think he knows how to get the grille off since Nissan stuff is always a little tricky. There is always some mechanism that you can't see and you end up braking it. He was also showing me some other minor problems too. His clutch pedal was squeaky so I told him to shove some multi-purpose grease up there. Another problem he showed me was a slight rear end moaning I think. I don't even remember clearly anymore. He put it in first gear and slowly accelerated up this hill where I live. There is a speed bump which he used to show me the noise. He went about 2mph over the bump and I could hear it. Then he let the truck go back down the hill a little bit and did it again. I could hear it again. But then he went over the speed bump to turn around and go back to where he parked, but the noise didn't present itself again. He was going a little faster, but only 5-8mph? Any idea what this could be? I was kind of thinking low rear diff fluid?

exactly what I was thinking, but I didn't want to question it. "to prove to myself that my truck takes 5 quarts" um...no.

ughhhhh. That's probably what I'm going to have to do.. I bought a siphon from AAP. Most awful POS ever. I guess turkey baster here I come.

a fuse for power mirrors? I can't see that ever blowing. short of a power surge...and how does that even happen? lightening strike?

LOL!!! Lucas, MMO and Sea-foam. Let's put all our cars on drugs.

yeah. I'll probably just end up doing the redline. I was worried about getting it full price of amazon and the shipping time, but at this point, it's whatever

duh..I should have known that. I can't figure Napa's website out at all. That thing is all jumbled up. Whenever I get into the oil or lubrication sections, it keeps organizing them by states? It lists random states and Maryland isn't there. I looked for gear oil, and all I could find was tractor oil or something?

marvel mystery oil? That sounds even more questionable than Lucas stuff. I'll have a look. I love your links

I'm reading your entire thread. Especially these last 3 pages and I'm soooo confused. You keep saying how it has tons more power, but how could that be? You added insane tires, added bigger accessories, and put on a lift. And you somehow got MORE power? You're aware that the vg33e only has 15 more HP from the factory than the Vg30e, right? Go for the turbos though, that would be sweet.

Alright. So yeah I guess I do have to buy 6 quarts. Ask for the MSDS? What is that so I sound like I at least have a hint of what I'm talking about.

where would I find such a magical substance?

It's not really the price I'm concerned about. If it costs $10, then it cost $10, but if $100 is what it takes to do it properly, then so be it. I only mentioned that the gallon of Napa fluid is $36 for reference. $36 for a gallon (4quarts) is a little on the low side, isn't it? I want to get something of decent quality so I don't uselessly waste $36. I don't want to buy 5qt. of the Napa fluid for $50, then find out that my trans won't shift for @!*% and then I have to put out another $100 for Redline.

oh really??? whaa?? When I was re-installing the starter I forgot to plug in the oil pressure sensor and the light came on. It was driving me crazy. As soon as I plugged it in, the light turned off immediately.

I have power mirrors, and they still work after 17 years. I've torn my dash completely apart countless times and they are still intact. What you might want to check for first, is that the switch is plugged in. As you may know, every single switch/button just pops right out of it's place. The hazards pop right out of the spot, the dimmer switch, the defroster, all those switches just pop right out. The power mirror switch is no exception. If you take off the bottom dash (the part below the steering wheel that covers the fuse box), you can get to the screw that holds in the driver's side AC vent. Actually, you don't even have to take off the bottom part, just unclip it at the top and let it hang down. Take that screw out, then you can bend the vent (VERY carefully) up and pop the switches out. You might have the cruise control switch, the Auto/power switch, and the power mirrors switch. Pop the cruise control and auto/power switches out for more room. Then pop out the power mirrors switch and see if it's connected. Also, it may be connected but the relay has gone bad. I think you should change that first.

I just discovered that my tank is empty. I think my engine was choking because I was getting to the bottom of the tank. The gas in the tank had been sitting for about 2 months. I only parked it with 1/8 tank left. condensation..crud. Idk. I started it up to let it idle so I could even more carefully listen to the noise. I started to take my glove box off to clean the blower resistor area and all of the sudden... Here's what happened. It was sitting around 1,600 RPM. That's still a little high in my book. I didn't touch the ECU, so I'm not sure what's up It dropped down to 1,300 quite suddenly. And the exhaust was puffing. I could hear each puff of the exhaust at 1,300 RPM. That's strange. Then it dropped down to 900 RPM suddenly. It seemed like it was struggling to get back to up 1,300 RPM. It settled at about 1,100 RPM for a half second Then dropped to 900 rpm for a half second. THEN puff puff puff..puff puff...puff....stall. I'm pretty sure my MAF is perfect. I recently cleaned it off and I didn't break it while doing that. I've driven it probably 20 miles since I cleaned the MAF, so I think it's working fine. I'm confused about lifters.. what is it that happens to them at causes the tap? I thought it was lack of oil pressure that causes it? I heard what actually happens to the lifters is that they collapse or something? They still function somewhat, but they are compromised and should be replaced. The myth is (Towncivilian disputes it) that ATF contains more detergents than engine oil. If so, what would these extra detergents to do help a lifter?

Yes. I don't want to gamble, but I can't find GL-4 anywhere. Napa has some Gl-4, the thing is, it's called "Napa Oil". They want $36 for a gallon, and that seems fair, but should I use it? I don't want to spend $36 on a sub-quality oil.

whoa. do you have pictures of that behemoth?

WOW!! that's ridiculous. Damn. Are those cables called fusible links?

I listened to it very carefully today. I think I may have busted a vacuum hose or something while doing my swap. My engine was idling a bit higher than usual. It was idling around 1650RPM and stayed there for a good 5 mins. Then it slowly dropped to 1500, 1450, 1400, and around 1300 when I said hell with it and drove it around the block. I was at a red light and did notice it was eventually down to around 650rpm in neutral. Anyway, I didn't take the accessory belts off. I didn't have time and didn't want to figure that stuff out in the dark. I listened to an old video clip I had and it used to sound like a genuine hard knock. Now it sounds like something a little softer. So I think I fixed the loudest problem while discovering the quieter one. I wouldn't describe it as a knock. The word "knock" sounds really harsh and kind of reverberating. I have the ticking which matches engine speed and it slowly went away when the engine got warm. I also have this squeak coming from the engine. It's like once every 1-2 seconds. That's what scared me. When someone described to me what a rod knock was, I instantly thought that the squeaking was from the rod sliding back and forth on the crank journal. I haven't driven it much since the transmission swap, maybe 12 miles at the most. 5 miles back to my house...3 miles to get a christmas tree. Driven it around the block two or three times. About the vacuum lines, I think I'm noticing a little bit of engine stutter or hesitation. The other day, I caught a very SLIGHT glimpse. It was a VERY small kind of..choke, or hiccup. Today, I couldn't get the thing over 3k RPM!! I was driving through an intersection and I was up to about 2,850 RPM and I was accelerating. The engine came to 3k rpm and it sounded like it was wheezing. It kept brushing up against 3k rpm. It would be like..3,000 then 2,950 then 3,000 then 2,900 then I shifted because I was scared. I usually hate revving it in neutral (that's what revving means, right? lol), but I was very curious about what just happened. I revved it up to 3,200 rpm with no problem. I didn't feel like going around the block again and trying to get it up to 3k rpm <--still don't have a muffler eek.

I used that Mobil 1 stuff you gave me a link for. Thanks a lot. I got 3 quarts of it at $11 a piece, a gallon of coolant, and PB Blaster all for $31 thanks to you. I wanted to get some really good stuff, like Amsoil or something, but I can't find Gl-4 anywhere!!! I was going to take the drain plug out to at least drain the water sitting on the bottom. I called Napa and they had some no-name Gl-4 by the gallon. I was going to pick some of that up.

Oh yeah definitely. It's like 10x easier to fill from the shifter anyway

UPSIDE DOWN?!?!?! watttttt? Anyways...my dad dug up the breaker bar and I changed the fluid in my rear diff. I don't remember why, but I only got 3 quarts of gear oil. I had this weird thought that 3 quarts would be enough for the front and rear diffs. Boy, was I wrong. I got the fill plug out and it looked good. I put my finger in and the level was good. I pulled my finger out and the fluid looked fresh. It was golden and looked pretty good. "Eh, I'll change it anyway. So then I know what kind of products I'm running" Good thing I did. I pulled the drain plug out and *PLOP* a huge clump of dark fluid/crap came out. Then it started pouring out fresh fluid. Someone probably just put some new fluid in without draining the rest or something. The magnet on my drain plug didn't look too healthy. How much accumulation of metal shavings is normal? I tried to get my transmission drain plug out...that ***** ain't budging. Anyone have any tricks? It's not rusted (aluminum, right?) and it's not all gunky and dirty. I was pulling on the breaker bar as hard as I could, but since I had to use extensions, the bar kept tilting and sliding out. Any tips?