edicer2

what he said. idk if there is one also back by the rear tires where the cable splits to both tires there might be a adjuster there also. I cant remember

my old pathfinder had this problem i have to clean all the contacts on the switches to make them work right also you need to have make sure both swithces are plugged in when your testing if they arent then they wont work at all.

does it just click or does it just keep turning over and over and not start?

do those have mass air flow sensors? mine would do that on my 92 when i push the clutch in and it would die. it ended up being the connector that connects to my MAF get getting a short from my hood hitting it over the years so i replaced the connector and it works fine now. But like i said idk if those have a MAF or not since im used to the vg30e not the vg30i

ah yeah that stinks...gl on the s10 that sounds like a dirty little task

ha yeah it is a pain in the ass! glade that made a difference. They have done that to me also i just got to autozone or advanced auto now

great glade you were able to get it all done. can you tell the difference?

i remember when mine broke so i cut it off lol those connect the sway bar right?

yeah they arent welded you will need to spray them and heat them upto get them off it was a pain in the a** the first time i did it!

agreed

yup thats how it is here in minnesota you can get a ticket for it being to loud but thats about it most trucks around here are straight piped. I used to have mine strait piped but it was to loud so i toned it down a tad.

yeah get a nice high flow one i found them for like 30 bucks and mine works good same with a nice high flow muffler. I have a high flow magnaflow cat and a flowmaster 40 series muffer. sounds great besides my new mandifold tick thats coming :-)

defiantly sounds like air in the lines to me

see if a few others agree thats what my past experience have lead to. Its happened to 3 of my cats and they have all smelled like rotten eggs also i had a loss of power so once i removed it i gained my power back and no more smell.

if it smells like rotten eggs its your cat which means its bad

I apologize for the long paragraph im going to write but i hope this helps. Well it was pretty simple just time consuming. basically you take those 2 bolts out you can see in the 3rd picture on the first page then you take off the nut on the other side where the second bushing is. After you get the 3 nuts off basically you need to finagle that tension rod out. If i remember correctly you need to just jack it up slightly so its not a full load on it. then make sure u have a jack stand. It might help to do this stuff before you loosen the bolts. Depending on where u live you might need a cheap little torch to heat the bolts up of pb blaster to get them off. Then after you get the small nut off remove the washer and the remainds of that bushing. Then I have to use a crow bar and a hammer to pound the tension rod down off the other 2 bolts and pull it through the hole. Once you get that off you need to remove that bushing and washer on there. After you have the tension rod all off and clean up inpect it and make sure its not worn out or bent. Mine since the cup part and bushings were missing it was rubbing all over inside that hole and caused it to get sort of thin. At that point you can either weld it up to the correct size again and grind it smooth or buy new ones. Also inspect your hole and make sure its not to stretched out. Mine was stretched out quiet a bit so we eneded up welding it up and redrilling the hole again, you might not need to. Now that you got it all inspected and as good as new you will get out the new bushings, and possibly washers. The bushings will also come with a small metal rod that slides inside of them that protects the tension rod from rubbing on hte metal inside the hole. When your bushing go bad it rubs on that little rod alot and eventually wears though to the tension rod. So if you have your cups yet and in good shape on both side of the hole then you can reasmeble the way you took it apart and place the new parts back on. It is kind of a bear getting the whole to line up with the 2 big bolts but you just need to mess with it to get it back on. If your cups are bad then you will need to get a grinder and cut up what is left of the existing cup on both sides if both are bad and go get some bearing races of a-17 and then have someone weld them back on there round the hole in the same spot as the other ones were. Make sure you prep the surface by sanding all the rust off. One you get them welded on put some rust preventative paint over the new welds and cleaned up area also the bearing to prevent it from rusting out again. Then just put the parts back together the way you took them off. If i forgot anything im sure someone will put their 2 cents in.

Well I didnt take pictures as the guy who helped me do it went. If i find time ill make a write up someone else who needs to have this done and is going to do it themselves could document it better as they went though.

Toby can you get a few different angles of your tension rod? Simular to the ones i posted just turn your wheel and take a picture from the top of your wheel well down at it and also maybe under it on the back side where the other bushing and nut are. This way we can see what is all damaged on ours.

yes you need to order new tension rod bushing and get a bearing race size a-17 atleast from the brand i posted and then have them weld on the outer ring part to replace what is gone on yours. Fix it soon because the longer you wait the more it rubs and wears out the tension rods. It costed me 200 total to get it done including parts and having a local shop weld it.

damn your truck look brand new compared to mine! damn rust belt

yeah thats about how mine was. I would bring it to a small shop not the nissan dealer. I thin ka smaller shop would be more willing to fix it for cheaper. Shop around. explain to them how to fix it so they dont need to sit around and figure it out.

haha yeah i bet gl with that! It defiantly made it feel like new! Im not sure the bushings part number i got them from rockauto though. They are the moog brand.

i have some american racing nitro rims and they only have one size offset that fits our lug pattern here is a few pictures. Right now i am runing 3" suspention lift but i dont think its at 3" maybe 2" i think i need to crank my torsionbars but these rub with 32" tires on the fenders only when flexing ALOT so if u have a full 3" lift and these rims and 32" tires you shouldnt have a problem. I dont think the offset would matter with my case its a matter of not beling lifted enough i could take the flares off and it would be great!

welli just put the 32" tires on like a week ago so they should be ok it feels way better and much stiffer. When i hit bumps before it would go all over the place. Drives nice and straight could be alined again though pulls to the right ever so slightly but before it used to fly at the curb if i let go of the wheel lol

Alright got it fixed i had the holes welded s h u t and redrilled them out, then welded on a A-17 bearing race(posted pictures of box) then put a c r a p load of welding beads on the tension rods then grinded them smooth to build them up from all the rubbing they did they were a little worn out. Heres the after math this should be stronger than the orginal! I did this to both sides to be on the safe side and no more wobble!