edicer2

you can get the z31 300zx lsd from a later years model 87s through 89 turbo models. There are alot in junk yard or cheap down south so i know you can find them. I have looked at getting one for my 300zx for a long time but there arent many cheap turbo z left up here in the rust belt

make sure it isnt getting power until u turn the key to try and start it. I think its your starter in which that case u might just have to tow it home and work on it. it would be easy to swap but i wouldnt want to do it in the snow. If thats the orginal starter then im sure thats the problem. Bith of my starts in my pathfinders havent made it past 150k miles before they broke. That if they were even the orginal ones.

damn those are some beefy sliders! nice work

yup you will need the antenna adaptor i forgot to mention that because i never hookd mine up i hate all the comericals they play on the radio

you will have to cut holes or relocate the binkers. will that bug you that it sticks up so high?

rockauto.com has them for pretty cheap. you could also ask someone parting out their truck if they can sell you one that way it an hold you over for a couple more years. I rather buy a oem one from a truck with a known good starter then a remanufactured one because its cheaper and the reman ones break faster. I bet you could get one from a junk yard for 30-40 bucks

see how many volts r getting to the starter when you try turning it over that will tell you if its the starter or some other problem.

hey forgot your in MN too but this one is B and R and they are in Mapleton MN down by Mankato

if its a stick make sure the safty button by the clutch petal is working properly. go down with a volt meter and see what you get for power at the starter. if your not getting the 12v then i would say you have a relay or something if you are getting the 12v then i would assume the starter is bad. if its a manual have a couple people help you push start it.

i had this problem last winter... Take the cluster out theres 5 screws that hold the black platic all around it. I think there is one on the bottom on each side then there 3 on the top. then once you get that piece off there are 4 screws in each corner of the cluster to remove. then carefully pull the cluster out and unclip all the clips as you go. the clock one is kind of a pain in the A** so u might want a needle nose pliers. then once ou have it all removed you will see behind where the speedo was there is a little cable looking thing. What I want you to do is go down a non busy street (yes u can start and drive the car with the cluster out) and watch the cable and see if the end is moving. if you can just touch it carefully and see if u can feel it moving. On my pathfinder that little end that spins(was white) had crack on the base and what i had to do was pull it off and get a replacement end off of a different cable. It takes like 2 seconds to pop the end off and push the new one on. That fixed my problem. that the easiest place to start. if the cable is spining and doesnt stop when you touch it(it may push in a bit its spring loaded but it shouldnt stop spining) then i would look at seeing why the cluster isnt working properly. It seriously took me like 2 months to figure this out and thats what fixed mine. replacing the cable would be a major pain in the ass half the bolts are damn near impossible to get at in the engine bay its easy when the top half of the motor is off though.

ha yeah i would do that too but i know ill never get back to it again lol

most junkyards offer a small warrentee on their motor whe nthey pull them. the one around me offers a 60 day warrentee and the motor is like 250 bucks so its a damn good deal. I know where i would go if i blew a motor. I be it wouldnt take more then a weekend to swap one too since its the same motor just unclip things and undo the motor mounts and pull it out and do the same puttin it back in. Just take a bunch of pictures of the wires so u know where they go. we swapped my freinds sr20 which involves messing with the wireharness in in a weekend. my freind can swap honda motors in 3 hours. for the most part if its the same motor the wires practically fall where they are suppose to go and clip in.

well thats to bad. I am sure someone with scoop it up and fix it it looks like it was in good shape.

yup exactly plus uget more room to connect the wires and can do a better job so you know they wont pop apart and short out in there. i bet its less time wiring that up then it is to try and do it with out the new wire harness. It only took me 20 mins to rip my factory one out, wireup the 2 new hardness, then clip into the radio and the dash clip, put the new radio in and reassemble the whole thing. It only took 10 mins to do it to my new pathfinder when i junked the old one because i had it all wired already all i had to do was unclip and reclip it and good to go.

most junkyard the motors are cheap. I remember before i bought my new pathy i was going to fix mt old one until i saw the frame rott becasue the motors with 100k in the junk yards were only 200-250$

on both of my pathys and on my friends it was the rear right ones by the firewall

read what i wrote i posted at the same time as u so idk if saw it or not

make sure to check the connections sometimes a ground could be bad. To test the battery put a volt meter on the battery when its been sitting for a while with the truck not running it should be around 12.0-12.5volts maybe more. When its running you should be up in the 14s if you arent then you have a weak charging system. 1 If you think you have a power drain then charge the battery to full and take it out of the car or just disconnect it over night and then test the voltage in the morning if its less then 12 i would say it bad battery. 2 then if its holding a charge disconnected and you do the same thing by charging it up and then this time leave it in the truck with it connected and see if it goes less then 12v over night then I would say you have a power draw somewhere. 3 if it is holding a charge while disconnected and also connected then i could think its your charging system or a bad connection. check your grounds and terminals to make sure they are all clean and not corroded that can prevent the current from flowing well. Make sure when the truck is on its get over 14 volts under load like with headlights on and maybe the heater or something. that way your working your charging system like you would normally when driving. if you have the stuff off it could maybe read 14v but if you put a load on it it could drop drastically which would cause it to not charge and eventually the battery would die. AN EXAMPLE of this would be in my 86 nissan 300zx with the same motor as my pathy(your motor is simular but bigger) the car would be fine running there but if i turned the headlights on or the heater on or pushed the brakes then the dash lights would light up saying low voltage(out pathfinder should do the same but not always) and then i got the idea to check the voltage(wasnt sure the the guage in the car was right but it read low 12v)and sure enough i was only getting a 12.7 when i had the car running and the headlights on when iturned the headlights off it would go up to 13.6v which is still low so i got a new alternator and it is back to 14.3v when the headlights are on like it should be. the testers basically push a charge on the battery and see how long it holds it then it puts a draw on it to see how fast it drops. then they tell you to turn the car on to and turn on the headlights and heater to put a load on it and it sees if the alternator is putting out the 14 volts. if it doesnt pass all of those it can telll you if its the battery or the alternator. So try 1-3 that i listed and let me know the results. doing those 3 has sovled my problem everytime. just let me know what you came up with and ill help you figure it out

I always just get the cheap harness. I just think its easier to get the 8$ wallmart hardness and match the colors up on that hard and the cd player one. That way ifu get a new pathfinder its just up clip and reclip again. Best way to hard wire it is to just test the wires by using a test light and seeing where the 12v constant is, then turn the key and find which additional wire lights up for the acc then make your own ground. As far as the rest take a 9v battery and then take a wire and hold it on one of the terminals on the battery and then start touching the other wires to the other terminal on it until you hear find a speaker crackling then those two wires go to that speaker and do so for the rest of the speakers. If you get real into it you can find the power antenna(if you have one) also. For amp turn on just use the one on the cd player if you are even using a another amp somewhere(factory amps gets their remote turn on somewhere else so dont worry about powering them). But try the color code above if that doesnt work try what i said it has never let me down or wrecked anything. Sorry if that doesnt help

air impact gun, air sander, tire pump, air nailer just a few i would use

ok sweet i am going to have to check that out mine both suck!

idk if someone ever sugested this or not http://www.courtesyparts.com/plug-chug-saddle-console-1984-1989-300zx-p-227982.html?cPath=2317_5767_5768& I have these in my 300zx and i love them! i dont think its whole lot different in size. you cna either velcro or screw it to it i would think. I havent tried since mine is stuck in my car so ddo i didnt want to take it apart. Has anyone tried this? (i know its spendy but it is very comfy and ifit worked it would be great for cup holders out of the way.

i have them on my 92 pathfinder and they seem to work great. at first they wouldnt allow the window to roll all the way so then i helpd the window up and made sure it didnt hit stuff then i let them stay up for a while to squish the tape and now they have a nice tight fit!

I have some 32"x11.5" Mud Kings that seem to work great!

the grill pops off just look to where the two peices of plastic sperate and try and pop them off. I have done it with my hand before so its not to hard to pop apart.