Trogdor636

I think a lot of Pathfinder owners would be shocked to see the auto controls. WD21 anyway.<br />

That's weird, my Chilton or Haynes has the ABS bled last. Never noticed the FSM procedure.

The auto for the WD21 are sort of a rare thing, I've seen them in 93's more than any other year. I'm with everyone on it blowing a little at all times, but I'm not familiar enough with that to know it works like the manual version.

It sounds like you have the auto climate control, correct?

I have one Cardone and one Napa (which may be a Cardone?) on my truck (another screwed up Rockauto order I've had) and they've been fine through some pretty decent wheelin lately. You might as well get them installed same time, I did them when I was doing my ball joints as well.

I don't have a pre cat. But yea, the pipe with the O2 sensor.

I agree on the sticky. Some of the nastiest grease ever. But the only thing that would quiet my sway bar bushings. Mine doesn't smell either, maybe a bad batch?

Yea my original plan was just pull the entire pipe from pick n pull. But it has to be a 94-95, and then it turns out my pick n pull just destroys most of the exhaust anyway pulling the cat. I need to buy a 300 dollar A/C commuter car for moments like this.

Nice! Details? Good shape I hope......

Top part is a dust boot, if you take the piston out there is a seal.

I would rebuild that caliper or buy another. Leaking brake fluid is obviously bad.

Welcome, looks good! You don't need to justify a VG33 to any of us, its one of the reasons I haven't fixed my studs yet!

The customer service has taken care of it, its just been issue after issue. Sometimes being cheaper than everyone isn't worth the headaches. Plus on some parts that are lifetime (ball joints-TRE's-CV axles etc) I'very decided to spend a little more locally for the ease of using that warranty if and when I need to return it.

Specifically the pipe between the y pipe and cat that has the O2 sensor. Mine are extremely rusted and I want to take that pipe off to change my rounded off O2 sensor. Yes, its gonna suck. I need to pick some up beforehand.

Your second amp will be in the rear hatch area on the passenger side. Pop off the side panel that goes above the wheel and you'll see it there. Oddly, that one is for the front speakers and the front amp is for the rear speakers.<br /><br />As for wiring try the12volt.com my buddy has a 93 though and his wiring was not anything like that, was closer to my 94.

If he's mobile or on tapatalk they might not be there. Not showing up for me anyway.......

Yep, the specs on tirerack.com say even a 30x9.5x15 need a 6.5 inch wide wheel.

I've had so many issues with Rock Auto lately, they probably just sent the wrong part. If I need the correct part right now for a weekend fix, I don't order from them anymore. If its something I plan on doing in the near future and have time to send the part back if its broke/not the correct part/used (yea, I was sent used inner TRE's) then I take a stab with them.

Durp. Black smoke is running rich....its late and I can't think correctly.....<br /><br />

Black smoke=worn rings.

I threaded a open lugnut (or just a nut) until it was flush with the stud. Then I hammered. Was this the correct way? Not sure but it certainly worked for me.

If you read a few posts up you'll see my answer. Where I live, the bigger tire shops (and a few of the smaller mom n pop type) will not mount a tire on a rim smaller than the tire recommends. Most (if not all) 31x10.50x15 require a 7 inch wide wheel. They are liable if they mount that tire on your 6 inch wide wheel and then you have a blowout, so they simply won't do it. I'm sure I could find somebody to do it, but I would get a slightly smaller tire, or a wider rim.

If you do any sort of wheeling, the center link will be the first to go. I don't wheel that hard and mine is already toast after about 7-8 months. Time for a Hooha......

And center link.

Gunnison? Where do you live at? My parents are in Creede.