Slartibartfast

My WD's front pump went out a while back. Turned out that the bushing at the top had seized up. A few minutes with pliers and steel wool, and a little oil, and it's worked since. Didn't cost squat, and I got to prove my dad wrong (he said I needed a new pump). Sounds like yours is a lot tougher to get to than mine, though. Be careful siphoning out the fluid. It tastes horrible.

Gotta love those quality OEM fasteners. The bumper bolts on my 95 are the same way, bust 'em off and put new stuff in. But yeah, your rad support... has seen better days.

You can get a sort of ghetto exhaust repair putty, my dad tried it on mine before having it done properly. Put it around wherever you think it's leaking. If that stops the leak... temporarily... then you've found where it's leaking.

Nah... the funny thing is when we prove them wrong.

Yeah, the VG30 is the stock Pathy motor (three liter six cylinder). I didn't know jack about Nissans either, until I found this site.

Mine always smells like gas... I figured they just did that!

When he's got his crunk headlight covers on, he's not picky.

Close, you linked to the album. If you mouse over the picture, four boxes appear below it. Mouse over the lowest one, click it, and it'll say 'copied.' Then just post the code. Like this: IMG http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n498/briandrum1/98%20PATHFINDER/Pathyrustbumpr3.jpg /IMG ^^ It looks like this, but with brackets around the IMGs.

Man, I hate it when my Pathy goes out and gets crunk. I can always tell, too, I turn the key and the belts go YEAH BOI... and I'm like come on, man, I just want to go the the post office, and when I talk it out of clubbing, it still tries to pick up Sentras on the way. The worst part is, I can smell the alcohol on its exhaust. You mean it quits running? You can run the codes yourself (there's a thread on here on how to do it). I did it myself the other day, it was dead easy. If the problem is emissions, your o2 sensor could well be part of it. There's a code for that, or some way to test it (flashing light or something; it's with the how-to-pull-codes thread). Good luck, and if you tell us more specifically what the problem is, we might be of more help.

I picked up a can of rubberized undercoat, it's basically just spray-on rubber. It should work pretty well so long as what's under it is dry and clean, otherwise it won't adhere well or it'll trap moisture. Maybe hit it with pressure sprayer, then let it sit for a few good hot days before laying the rubber. (I haven't looked into oil treatments, IIRC some of the guys here use them.) Good to hear it's not rusted out. Every time my dad finds me working on mine, he says, if you found more rust, I don't want to hear about it.

Looks like a very clean install, too.

I'd definitely do the T-belt, just in case it's interference. MIght be good to figure out just what it is, as well, and find out what common problems etc are with it. If you can trade it for a low-milage VG-series, you'll have a much easier install on your hands.

While we're here... I assume you gentlemen are familiar with the work of Eduard Khil. Painful, yes, but better than getting rickrolled. (search "trololo" to see the original.)

... don't think that was a B. Decapitated.

If you're looking for a place to bring the cable out of the car, there's a little rubber bung (a couple, actually) in the rear quarter panel that could work. One is on the inside (you'll see it from underneath) and is fairly large. The other is covered by the bumper corner, and is rather smaller. I think I'd use the smaller one, just cut a hole in it, force the cable through and stick it back in, maybe with a little caulk to keep it sealed. The plastic trim inside the back comes out on snaps, so just pull out the little access hatch thingy (I think it's for changing tail light bulbs), grab the panel, and give it a good yank. You should be able to route the cable into the empty space in there through the end (IIRC there are a couple wires already in that area, and a nearby carpet seam to route the wire under).

For pics I use photobucket. It's free to sign up. Upload your picture to PB, copy the IMG code (click where it says img code under "share this photo"), then paste into your post, and it'll show up.

What did the whole setup cost you?

I'd be inclined to poke around with a multimeter where it's heat damaged.

Mine had two plugged up cats in it (didn't know why until now though!) and I think it started its life in Idaho. The exhaust guy who repiped it shrugged, cut them out, and put one generic cat in, and the truck felt like it reclaimed a lot of lost power. We don't emissions test around here though, so I'm no help.

I'm pretty much useless for most of what you're asking but the wiper motor... maybe I can help there. Because it's been sitting I would suspect the bushing where the wiper arm goes through the panel has gotten a little stiff (elements and disuse and whatnot). It, or the linkage in the door, may just need a little grease. There's also the chance that the rebuilt motor is still bad. (Poor lubrication, bad bushing from the seizing, cooked coils from trying to push a creaky linkage.) Worst case, pull one from the junkyard, see if that solves the problem, but I've found that a can of white lithium will get a lot of things going again. And before you write off the rust as nothing, give it a couple good smacks with a hammer just to be sure. It should ring, not thud or deform. My dad and I thought that my WD's frame was only mildly rusty, until I found the holes. If there's body rust to the point of replacing panels, I'd give the chassis a very close look. Also, this thread needs pics.

I'm pretty sure Cuong Nguyen did that on his. I'm not sure if he SAS'd it or did up the IFS like a stock 4x4, but it was 2WD, now it's 4.

Yeah, pretty sure the transfer case goes between 1:1 (H) and whatever you have in it for low gear. So you're stuck either doing the diffs... or adding more power.

Ouch... gotta look out for Saturns/Buicks, around here at least there's usually an old person behind the wheel. I pulled out the actuator for the rear hatch lock, cleaned it out, and got it working again. To my surprise, the mechanism was very easy to pull and service, and a little white lithium got it rolling again.

Alarms and kill chips are old school... I want a setup where I can control the truck with a cell phone, and chase the would-be thief down the street with it. The fuse isn't a bad idea though, I'll keep that in mind.