Slartibartfast

Did you do the timing belt? If it's a tooth or two off, that would hurt the milage. (All I can think of, but then, I'm no mechanic.)

Foam filters can be iffy, too. If the foam is crumbly, and the engine sucks it in, I'm guessing it won't do the engine any favors. (I got a set of foam filters with the carburetors for my project car, and the foam was like angel food cake. It's getting different filters...)

"You picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel..."

See Alkorahil's post above, what you're describing still seems to fit with what he said. Check your battery, if it's way low, then your alternator (or associated wiring) is probably the issue, and the car just ran it down until there wasn't enough juice to keep it going. Test the alternator, and check the wiring to it.

I figured out why the transfer case shifter had a rubber thing on it... without it, my right leg got rather warm. (Note to self: get replacement before removing broken part!)

I've seen Hardbodies (the pickup truck version of the Pathy) in the junkyard with four-bangers. I think someone on here blew up a 4-cyl Pathy... it was spurting coolant out the exhaust? I might be remembering wrong. Also, my 95 manual shows both the VG30E V6 and the KA-series in diagrams. It probably wouldn't be a difficult swap... the only question is why.

I checked my computer for codes the other day (55 ), and noticed that the seat had a lot of... stuff left under it from the PO. After vacuuming out all the french fries and mike&ikes, I decided to do the driver's side too. Pretty soon I had the carpets peeled back and the console out... The rubber piece beneath the fabric cover on the t-case shifter (bolts into the transmission tunnel) is pretty badly chewed up. Are these available anywhere? Or should I just hack in something else? (And, for the really stupid question... how do you get the knob off of the stick?) Also, there are two electronic things under the driver's seat. One's the alarm. Anyone know what the other thing is? It's got a black sheetmetal cover on it. (It's not broken, I'm just a nosy bastard. )

I use the overdrive on my 95 when cruising (above 50). I think I read somewhere that it does something with the torque converter? I only use it if I'm going above fifty, otherwise it bogs in stop-and-go and won't engine brake. Example: I'm going fifty, overdrive engaged, and approaching my turnoff. I let off the gas, and it coasts. I disengage overdrive, engine RPM jumps, and the truck slows dramatically. If I time it right, I barely need to touch the brakes to make the turn. I don't use it off-road, in snow, or pretty much anywhere except the highway. Then again, I'm slightly paranoid about cooking my trans (no cooler yet).

LOL they had a lot of fun making that one.

Sounds like a couple of busted-off or worn out gear teeth to me. Good luck finding the gear on its own, though.

... how would one do that? Is that a setting on the ipod? (Sorry about thread jack.)

I've been unable to connect my ipod via USB. I've got a Sony Xplod with the USB port on the front, and a 4th gen Nano. The plugs work fine, but the iPod thinks it's supposed to sync with something, and the head unit just beeps and gets confused. It works fine with a flash drive. Mine doesn't have a CD changer hookup though. All I'm saying is, test it before you install it.

LOL not much to see, only other thing I labelled is the AC circuit (compressor and filler). I'll label more as I figure out what it does/run out of real things to fix. The only other notable thing under the hood is where my friends and I spray painted Bill Murray's head. I printed off the "how to read computer codes" today, so I'll check the computer tomorrow and make sure my hack wiring job is working. I did squirt some dielectric grease into the connections to keep them clean and dry, and wrapped it up in electrical tape. Now it blends in with the rest of the wiring. (And yes, the connector in the engine bay is three-wire.)

The muffler guy replaced my warped Y pipe... finally, my exhaust is quiet! It's enough quieter that I'll need to keep a closer eye on the speedo...

That is one rusty Pathy body! But yeah, most of what you'll need, you'll find in a junk yard. Do yourself a favor, before you start, pick up a whole lot of PBlaster and a bag of 10mm nuts and bolts. The stock fasteners like to stick and break off. (Might want to get some rust converter, too!) To check the frame, jack up the rear end, pull a wheel off, and beat on the frame (the lower part of the side, above the axle) with a hammer and flat-bladed screwdriver. If it punches through, or makes a dull thunk (metal rings), it has frame rot. It can be fixed, it's just a pain (and can result in losing an axle if allowed to go crazy). It's also easy to miss, because it rots in the highest part of the frame, where the wheel hides it. If it drives and the frame is good, then I'd say it's worth that. The local junkyard quoted me more than that for just a frame!

Also keep in mind that we don't all have EMT training... if there was a medical emergency I know I'd be pretty much useless.

Depends. If it's a just a fender bender, or I'd just be getting in the way/making it worse, I'd move on. If it's serious, and the cops aren't there yet, I'd pull over. But I live in a small town, where accidents usually involve either alcohol or deer, and where I know the roads fairly well. Props for stopping though, hope you were able to help.

Mine's rotting a bit, and we considered swapping a solid frame from a local junkyard. My dad decided it was too much work, and the jy guys wanted 400 for it (fair, considering the pita to pull it out). So we're putting a nice big solid patch on either side... I'll put some pics up when we get it together. The back where the bumper mounts is a little sketch, too, but it's not like we tow with it, so... converter and undercoat, for now.

The four wheel drive engages the front end, which causes the front and rear to spin at the same speeds, but doesn't do anything with the differentials. (The diff cages spin at the same speed, but the wheel speed can change side to side, as the differentials are still open.) If it's stuck in 4x4 and you try to turn on dry pavement, yes, it'll chirp a bit/drag the tires/not do very well. When you turn, the front and rear tires follow different paths (just like the tires on either side) only there's no differential to compensate, so something has to give (usually the tires slide). This isn't a problem on wet/snowy/muddy/loose roads and trails, because the tires are slipping anyway (that's why you need 4x4). Just to get the stupid questions out of the way: is the green 4x4 light off? Is the 4x4 lever (says 2h, 4h, N, 4lo) pushed all the way forward? Have you tried driving it backwards for ten feet or so? Does it have the stock automatic hubs, or does it have manual hubs (turn by hand)? The front end stays engaged when you turn the 4x4 off until you drive it backwards a bit, and if the hubs are still locked, it's still in 4x. The owner's manual goes over working the 4x4, and if you don't have the manual, check above the driver's side sun visor, there should be a cliff's notes version in the clear pocket. The whine at 55 might be related, or it might not. If you notice it even when going dead straight it could be a dragging brake or a wheel bearing or something, or of course it could just be the 4x4 complaining. There is the chance that your rear axle is actually locked up (and both rear wheels spin at the same speed no matter what). Besides a botched LSD, I guess somebody might have locked it up for off-road use (probably with a welder). If this is the case... your rear end could be bad. (The shop guys hopefully would've caught that, though, rather than going on about your 4x4.) Also keep in mind I'm not a mechanic, so I could be totally full of it. Good luck!

I've calculated it a couple times, seventeen ish. I came out with 24 once but I'm pretty sure my dad borrowed it and gassed it up at some point lol

Well, don't shoot it, somebody tried that with my project car and it didn't help much. I've heard you can find a vacuum leak with WD40 or something, spray it on joints etc and it'll suck it in and cough or something when you find the bad spot. I'd expect a vacuum leak to be pretty consistent though... have you checked your grounds? Is the computer throwing any codes?

Oxygen sensor it is... wires went right over the trans to a lug on the exhaust. Given the attention to detail of the guy who re-did my exhaust, the plug thing was probably his work. I figured I'd just solder it up, but the wire from the harness wouldn't take solder. I couldn't cut it, either, it just slid between the blades. I'm not sure just what it's made of, definitely not copper though. Anyway, I reused the little screw connectors I found inside what I'd thought was a plug, and the connections feel solid. I'll run the codes tonight or tomorrow to make sure I did it right, and then glob some grease over the ends to keep water etc out. Thanks guys! And Silverton, yeah, I found a Sharpie. That, and I've seen way too many bad sci-fi movies; I don't want to be the guy opening the hood, seeing steam, and saying "the engine is broken."

Wrinkling is the paint reacting with itself. Sometimes it's from mixing brands/types (enamel, acrylic, lacquer), sometimes it's humidity, sometimes it's just Tuesday. Given long enough it'll harden enough to sand, or you can strip it and re-shoot. (I've had paint craze itself just because I shot it outside of the dry times on the can.) Also, that ^ is one hell of a jy haul.

Thanks guys. Adamzan, what's wrong with them? Apart from the wiring, I mean. Towncivilian, it's amazing what a pressure washer can do. Previous owner had every cranny on this thing full of pine needles...

Confirm the lighter socket against the battery first, there's a bit of wiring, a fuse, and the ignition column between them. Shouldn't make a difference, but might.