Slartibartfast

Cleaned out the headlight switch, and got so tired of the door chime that I tore it out, and ran wires from the plug (the blue/pink wire and the brown one with silver dots) up the steering column for an indicator light. Still have to get the light... it'll go through the little cover around the ignition, so that when I get in at night, I can find the damn thing without turning the map lights on. And no more horrendous beeping noise!

I've never had any noise problem with mine. It doesn't blow too hard on 1, but that's what 2 is for. And if it's a debris thing, mine should tick like crazy, every crevice is full of pine needles! PO parked under a tree.

There's a mod I've seen that adds another relay to the system, between the ignition and the starter solenoid. Maybe the ignition suffers from the same issues as the headlight switches? Or maybe this just compensates for a worn-out starter solenoid. I'm no expert on starters, so I had a redneck explain it to me slowly. I think I've got it now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbDeq9fi7Ak The only problem he describes that fits your symptoms is that the little copper plates are worn out. Since both fire up fine on the bench, and one's brand new, I'm pretty sure this isn't the issue. For now at least, let's assume the starters are both good. I also don't think it's clicking but then not starting due to a weak battery. I've seen cars with batteries that are well and truly dead at least try to start. I suspect you're not far off, though. Here's why I think your battery's not the problem either. The other day there was a car in the school parking lot that wouldn't start. The battery clamp was loose. Enough juice got through to do the dash lights and all, but it couldn't pass the amperage needed to wake up the starter. The girl turned the key, and it didn't do squat (don't remember if it clicked or not). Once I tightened the clamp, the engine started right up. I suspect that this may be the case with your starter connections (though it can't hurt to check the battery hookups too). You mentioned that your plug looked a little dodgy... this could very well be the problem. A weak connection (rather like a weak battery) looks great on the voltmeter but as soon as you put a load on it, it fails. (The sparks you mention say bad connection to me, as well. The battery clamp on this car sparked like crazy when I wiggled it.) If you ever feel like a car work noob... don't. One of the other guys trying to get the girl's car started was afraid to touch the battery terminals, because he thought it would shock him. Made me feel rather better about my limited knowledge. And my condolences on having to pull the starter multiple times... Nissan really didn't think the starter placement through very well.

Yes, open diffs are one wheel wonders. LSD adds a friction clutch to sort of lock the two sides together, but still has enough slip to take a corner on dry pavement. A locked rear diff is like not having a differential at all, but a straight axle from one wheel to the other, like a slotcar. Some people just weld the gears in the open diff together, permanently locking it; you can turn a locker on and off, so it's either fully open, or fully locked. I have LSD in mine (came that way). The only downside I've found is that it's a little tail happy in two wheel drive on ice (whole rear end drifts sideways due to both tires spinning), but that's my own damn fault for not having it in 4x4 on ice. If LSD was an option for yours, check around any local junkyards for similar-vintage Pathfinders. If the rear axle has an orange sticker on it that says "LSD oil only," it's LSD. I don't know if the Pathy rear ends come with different gearing, but if so chances are a ) it wouldn't be the end of the world or b ) you could swap the ring gear from your open diff onto the LSD diff. I'm not an r50 guy though so don't quote me on that.

You want to crawl under there? And Nunya, if you're ever in the area, bring a bag, you can have as many as you want. We have a very stupid terrier, so we keep an eye out.

Sounds like you could just cut and swap the plug ends from your 91 door, if they're color coded the same way.

My dad has an 06 Frontier. He was tired of the doors locking themselves when it accelerated, so he had me reprogram them (dead simple). Then I took it out for a spin to see if I'd done it right. So far, so good. When I returned, I found a four foot bull snake on the pavement in front of my house. I went and got Dad, we parked the truck next to it, and then decided to shoo it away. We chucked some gravel at it, and it started moving... in the wrong direction. It beelined for the truck, jumped into the frame, and pulled itself up. This was not what we had in mind. We drove it around, and blasted it with the hose, but either the snake made a run for it when we weren't looking, or he's all coiled up around a body mount or something waiting for us to forget about him... either way the truck's parked a little further from where we let the dog out. I wish we'd gotten pics...

A tire will hydroplane on water... maybe a timing belt will, uh, mudroplane?

Finally got the patches for the frame cut! Much grinding/welding to come...

I read the codes from mine the other day, dead easy, and pulled a code 55 which I was very happy about (means all clear). I read what towncivilian linked to, printed it out, put it in the glove box just in case. I did end up removing the seat, just to make things easier (and because I discovered lots of french fries lurking around the computer). Didn't even take that long, and I can't figure out most digital watches.

Put green duct tape around where the rubber for the t-case shifter should be... should last until I get around to snagging an old tractor tube. The Nissan dealerships don't even have the rubber piece in their books.

Exactly. I haven't had my WD over about 75, it's all two-lane highway out here and I really don't trust it any quicker. Brix, you are a braver man than I.

Hmm... I'll have to try that. It was bugging me so I went and checked... and yes, there is a difference! I hadn't tried rocking it by hand. ahardb0dy's right, don't mind me.

All the switches on the console... so you've got (best case) fog lights, alarm, shock adjuster, rear hatch popper, and heated seat controls. If it doesn't have heated seats or fogs the holes will be covered with black plastic blanking plates. There's a lot of things this could be. I'm sure there's a fuse somewhere that deals with them. Also, try pulling your console (not too tough, open the top, pull the rubber sheet out of the bottom, and undo the two screws; then there are a couple more screws up by the shifter) and see if they're even plugged in. IIRC there are a couple in-line fuses under the driver's seat, pretty sure they're for the ABS or the alarm though. I've never properly tested my alarm, because I don't have the keyfob to turn it off. But everything else (fogs, hatch, suspension) works. When I got it some noob had tried to rewire the fogs, so my dad had to re-do the wiring to them. Yours may have the same problem. (Do the lights in the suspension and fogs switch light up?) Also keep in mind, the suspension isn't a huge difference. I can sort of tell what mode mine's in, but with 16 year old shocks, there's only so much it's going to do. Never mind, wasn't testing properly.

IIRC one of the two-door guys (Morningwould?) cut the top from the back half of his Pathy. It actually looked pretty legit. Or... pure dune buggy... put the mechanicals under a Bug body. Can't hunt the undead without a permit.

Wicked cool. Thanks Silverton.

My occasional fantasy with mine (for if the body somehow gets totalled, and I somehow have the skills, tools, and money to do this before my dad makes me buy something sensible) is to pick up a 30s or 40s lead sled Studebaker or Cadillac or something, then put the Pathfinder running gear under it, with truck tires, and either leave the faded stock paint or do it up in Hammerite. Maybe SAS it while it's torn apart. Bolt up some nice MTs on black steelies. Then cram a turboed VG33 or something under the long hood and replace the chrome bumpers with steel plate, welded up to mimic the shape of the chrome. Maybe add a few louvers to the hood for an intercooler or whatever, give it a few Road Warrior touches, and put a zombie hunting permit on the dashboard. Shotgun rack is optional, but encouraged. ... I've clearly put too much thought into this.

To go back a few posts... you said the light goes out after you've been driving a while. I assume that this driving is highway, and at speed... suggests to me that the problem either occurs during acceleration (but not when holding speed) or before the car has fully warmed up. Of course, I have no idea what that would point to. Also, is the engine acting up when the CEL's on? My understanding is that when the MAF goes out, the engine sputters and coughs black smoke and generally lets you know that something is horribly awry. If the only symptom is the light coming on, maybe something else is acting up and posting your various codes. And while I'm pretending I know what the hell I'm talking about... any chance you've got a bad seal on the gas cap? My friend freaked out and thought her Pontiac was breaking down because the CEL came on, turned out she just hadn't screwed the cap in. Having somehow never forgotten my cap, I don't know if Nissans do the same thing.

Adapters would push the trans back... or push the engine forward. Assuming the adaptor's not a mile thick, you'd just have the motor mounts to mod (probably a fair amount of work, but at least you wouldn't be doing it while lying underneath). You have to pull the engine either way, right? I'm sure the engine bay has a spare half inch up front.

Is the computer setup any different, or just plug it into what's there? If my auto goes out I know what I'm putting in.

It's tough to make a patched frame as strong as original, especially if you don't know the extent of the rust. I won't be able to tow with mine even after we weld up the sides of the frame, because the back half (above the tail pipe) is iffy too. (When I get a welder of my own, I'll tear further into it, but for now I'm depending on my dad's money and my uncle's welding, and they're both tired of working on this thing.) Mine looked a little flakey too, until I started beating it with a hammer. Then the flakes fell off and revealed holes and sixteen years worth of dirt... I had to pull the wheel off to find the bad stuff. Definitely check it out before you buy. The outside looks pretty clean, though.

Rascal vs. Pathfinder. BEGIN.

Just stumbled across this. http://www.instructables.com/id/Find-an-exhaust-leak-without-burning-your-hands/ Worth a shot.

My WD's front pump went out a while back. Turned out that the bushing at the top had seized up. A few minutes with pliers and steel wool, and a little oil, and it's worked since. Didn't cost squat, and I got to prove my dad wrong (he said I needed a new pump). Sounds like yours is a lot tougher to get to than mine, though. Be careful siphoning out the fluid. It tastes horrible.

Gotta love those quality OEM fasteners. The bumper bolts on my 95 are the same way, bust 'em off and put new stuff in. But yeah, your rad support... has seen better days.