Slartibartfast

I cleaned my MAF with contact cleaner (no residue) and a Q tip, and while I noted no performance improvement (it didn't look that dirty to begin with), it didn't seem to hurt anything. Anyway, the dying at stoplights sounds familiar, because I've fought a similar issue with mine a couple times. I think I've tracked it down to a corroded plug for the coolant temperature sensor causing weird inputs to the computer. Both times it's acted up, messing with the MAF/TPS/CTS plugs put it right again, and the coolant sensor plug was the only one of those that looked questionable inside. It's the rearmost one on the coolant neck, by the distributor, assuming the VG30/33 sensors are in the same places. Pulling the two plug wires nearest to it out of the distributor makes accessing the plug (and that little wire clip that holds it in) a lot easier. That said, you say you can make yours even out by revving it, and nothing seems to even mine out when it's acting up (besides a foot on the gas). That might suggest a different issue. Still wouldn't hurt to clean that connection, though.

Perhaps that's the confusion, then, dealer installed alarm vs factory installed alarm.

It's been a while since I had mine apart, but if my memory is correct, yes, the metal strips are springy and bend to make/break contact, and those little boxes under the contacts (right by the 45° bend) are the pushrods from the switch mechanism. We're dealing with some high tech stuff here. I don't remember oil in mine, but the oil is probably just there to keep the switch moving smoothly. Unless it's on the contacts I wouldn't worry about it. When I had mine to bits, I cleaned the contacts, tried it, and then ended up eyeballing each contact for proper separation/contact when pushed. Bend them too far out and they'll never connect (had this problem after cleaning), too far down and they won't disconnect... it takes a little fiddling around. You can also hook an ohmmeter to the leads in the plug, figure out what's what, and then do a continuity check to make sure the switch is in fact making contact.

I've never had the high beam light come on without the high beams. However, if the low and high beam leads are shorting to each other, that would explain the issue. Melted plugs might explain this. I'm not sure what would've made the plugs melt, though. Usually headlights on these go weird because the switch gets corroded (and they don't come with headlight relays for some reason). All I can figure is that someone put in way too hot of bulbs, or the plugs somehow shorted out and fried the plugs. Then again, I don't know what is in the DRL module.

This might help: I had to rebend mine just a little after cleaning to make them work right again.

Maybe the cooling system has air in it? Try bleeding it and topping up; short of a clogged rad (unlikely if the coolant comes out clean) I can't think of what else would let the rad have cold spots.

I got a whine at around 2500 rpm (IIRC) that developed after I'd had the truck a while. Turned out the PO had done a timing belt job and apparently over-tightened it (and used cheap parts), and the tensioner was failing. Luckily we noticed and got it to a mechanic before the bearing gave up. OP: Good luck. Hopefully it's got another 500 in it. You might check under the timing cover to see if the rubber's in good shape (no cracks/fraying), but it doesn't sound like you'd have another option if it wasn't... and I've seen pictures of belts that looked fine except for the missing teeth.

I imagine most of this applies: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33061-2wd-steering-setup-installed-w-pictures-using-oem-steering-damper/ RHD might make a difference, and the pitman arm bore size might be different in your market. I've never heard of a wide-body option so I'm no help there, either.

Stupid question: does the '95 supplement have stuff the '95 FSM doesn't, or is it just an update for the '94 manual?

Curse the FSM for not including the dealer alarm system!

This is the only one I know of, and it wasn't a kit. Our aftermarket support is pretty limited. Edit: uhp, I lied, here's another one. And it looks like he sells kits, if you have $2k burning a hole in your pocket: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Long-Travel-Kit-Hardbody-Frontier-Nissan-Baja-Kit-Lower-Arms-/290628638062?hash=item43aad1156e&item=290628638062&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Weird, I unplugged my alarm brain and it started/ran no problems.

Looks like the oil is correct, and your diff is in fact knackered. You may be able to source rebuild parts (check with Alkorahil), but it might be cheaper to swap out the third member for one from a non-knackered axle.

The problem IIRC is that the transfer case on the Chevy transmissions is on the wrong side for the Nissan front diff. If you want to do a solid axle swap at the same time, no worries. I think there was a build thread a while back where the guy put a 4.3 in, you might try and find that one.

I used to just use the factory wrench and jump on it once or twice (I'm only about 140lbs). I checked this against a torque wrench set to 80 lb/ft and it wasn't quite right, but it wasn't off by much. I use the torque wrench when possible. I've never had one loosen up either way. It is surprising how hard shops will rattle-gun the lugs on... I've found lugs on friends' rigs that I simply couldn't get off with hand tools. Weirder though was when the tire shop torqued the piss out of the lugs on my spare rack. Where did they think it was gonna go?

Was it straight diff oil or did it have an LSD additive in it? Without a friction modifier, the clutches tend to lock up and chatter. My1Path rebuilt his LSD a while back with new bits. Might look for that thread, he took his apart a few times IIRC and ended up with a stack configuration he liked. Driving around in 2x I don't imagine you'd notice much. It might make the front end break loose a little easier on ice/slick snow (more likely to spin both wheels). One guy had issues with it destroying his strut rod bushings, but they weren't in great shape to begin with. Keep an eye on the bushings, and should work pretty well. I've read through a couple threads on putting front LSD in these and found no regrets.

Good to hear you found it! That washer must've gotten hot. +1 on a junkyard, if there's a rig with a blown engine they shouldn't mind you picking a washer off it. Sounds like you can't really take what's left of the old one to the hardware store at this point.

Definitely sounds like something's loose in there.

AFAIK the stock alarm has no ignition kill function. My understanding is that the starter contacts in the ignition switch aren't relayed on the auto trans trucks. The contacts inside wear and less power makes it to the starter. The relay mod means the switch only needs to pass enough juice to make the relay kick on, which it should still be capable of. The starter gets oil dumped on it when you take the oil filter out... it might just need a good cleaning. A layer of oil and dirt on the starter could be obstructing its contacts, further limiting the current available to make it go.

Sounds like you've got the wrong fluid in there.

Hydrolock takes a motor from whatever speed it's at to no speed fairly quickly, and of all the "drowned my Pathy" threads I've seen on here, I can't remember anyone complaining that their timing belt failed too. The sudden stress of shifting might've finished the belt off, but it does sound like it had a pre-existing condition.

Well this got me thinking, so I checked on the plug for my coolant temp sensor. It was corroded inside, which probably means it's what was giving me trouble. It's one of the sensors on the coolant neck, the one closer to the engine. I pulled a couple spark plug wires so I could get my hand in there to pull the clip off. Hopefully your issue's as simple as this!

Sounds like either the front end is somehow leaning (causing one front corner to be higher, and the corresponding rear corner to be lower), or there's something awry with the spring perches/frame. I'd park somewhere flat and measure from the frame (or unibody) to the ground front and rear to see if that's what's tweaked.

Got the driving lights working again... the inline fuse holder somehow melted just enough for the wire to pull away from the fuse.

One last thing on the 6mm hex socket: While editing some video I took of the hub install, I noticed how much the long hex shaft was bending... and the chip that flew off at one point. So, again, make sure you get the short ones, the long ones just aren't good for this. Use a stubby ratchet extender if you have to.