Slartibartfast

Is that $26/injector or $26 core for the old one?

Right! Forgot I was in the R50 section. Explains a lot actually.

Is the OBD1 ECU smart enough to lean out just one bank? It's only got the one O2 sensor. But it does sound reasonable that the computer would read a rich condition and try to lean out.

+1 on the tuneup, but it seems like a misfiring ignition would lead to high CO/unburned fuel, not the lean condition you're fighting with. Cleaning the MAF (and its electrical plug!) and checking the primary O2 sensors sounds like a good start. Also, Zamboni tires?

Well, you might let him know his hosting contract expired.

Well, I guess if I had to choose, oil leaks beat oil burning. Thanks for the info!

Cable? The carrier latch design must've changed for the R50. On the off chance you haven't tried it, maybe pushing the carrier towards the truck (so it's not resting against the latch) and pulling the lever would do the trick?

VG30.com is down.

I'm not sure how fast these are supposed to cycle, but I don't remember hearing mine go in and out that fast. I did a little searching around, and it looks like the low pressure switch could be worn out, or the coolant level could be too low, but I'm also seeing mentions of clogged lines. I doubt a clogged line is the problem if it still blows cold. I don't have the pre-facelift R50 service manual, but the '95 and '03 manuals don't include this issue in troubleshooting.

Driving with one hub locked or in 4x without either locked wouldn't damage the hubs. Yours has probably just corroded inside while sitting. (How's the humidity down there?) I'm not sure how far the OEM hubs can be torn down, but hopefully it's enough to clean and grease whatever's seized, or at least to get enough penetrating oil in there to free it up.

Maybe the #2 injector is leaking? Keep us posted, I'm interested to see what it turns out to be.

Yikes. Do the 5.6L motors end up burning oil like the Sentras?

That's a diesel thing, gas models don't have them. Also, I'd be surprised if wet gas only screwed with the one side. Good reasoning on the t-belt, sounds like it's probably not your issue then. One thing that moisture does sometimes mess with, though, is the ignition. I would've expected it to dry out by now, but if the distributor cap is cracked, or the spark plug wires are shot, a little moisture could exacerbate arcing and lead to the plugs not firing. Non-firing plugs = dead cylinders = gas on the plugs.

^^ A slipped T-belt makes a lot more sense than my theory.

I wish I had a good explanation for that. My first thought was coolant temp sensor, but yours acts up cold, and the CTS crops up more when the engine's warmed up. All I can think of is some issue with an electrical ground increasing resistance in one bank's injector circuit, causing a lean condition. The computer sees a lean burn on the O2 sensor and adds fuel trying to even out the mix, making the one side run rich. This probably isn't a good explanation, since injectors aren't linear AFAIK, they're either on or they're off. Maybe not a ground, but I'll bet there's something restricting fuel to one side, and I'd be surprised if it was the computer.

I'm kind of amazed that the manifold-mounted cats last at all; seems like the heat cycling would be hell on them. Hopefully the Pathy cats don't puke bits back into the motor like on the Sentras.

Congrats on a successful swap! Maybe the lockup clutch in the old trans was shot? (Also, just curious, what's wrong with Amsoil?)

I posted a heads up on fb, on the off chance that one of my west side friends sees it rolling around. You might check around at the local salvage yards and see if anybody's tried to sell them a Pathfinder recently.

Those meshed grilles do look like an improvement. I've got some window screen in there on mine, but it's not really cleanable without removing the grilles.

Looks fine to me, so long as the wiring isn't rubbing anything or snagging your feet. So long as the connections are done right and insulated it should keep working like it should. I wouldn't go super thin (no magnet wire) but the speed sensor's just a reed switch, so I can't imagine it passes much current. Nice to see I'm not the only one with zip ties holding the air vents in. I haven't had trouble with my dash (yet?) but if I do I'll post up what I can about fixing it. There isn't a whole lot of info about them up yet.

Looks good!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36016-carburetor-on-a-vg30/

I don't remember which size I got when I blew the front speakers, but the bolt holes matched up and the frames fouled the plastic spacers. Ended up modifying the spacers on the router to clear the speaker frames.

I'm not sure what to make of those symptoms... hopefully the new injectors fix it, but it's starting to sound more like a wiring issue to me, especially with the fact that it started after getting wet.

Isn't it nice when you can fix something without new parts?