Slartibartfast

JDM yo! On the off chance the fuse boxes are laid out similarly, this is my fuse panel (VG30E round dash): Edit: The layout looks just about the same, now that I'm looking at it... so it's probably the one to the left of the two for the blower motor.

Sorry to hear, but yeah, they're not great on gas. Good luck with the timer.

I don't know diesels that well, but from what I've read, the glow plugs only do their thing when you're starting the engine. Sounds more like a fuel delivery issue (weak pump, leaky regulator?).

Mike's 88 only has the two injectors for the whole system, so pulling plugs wouldn't tell him anything like it would on an MPFI rig.

Good to hear it's running right. When you weld the exhaust up, make sure you unhook the battery first, don't want to fry something. I've heard of people having problems with the oxygen sensors after welding, but I can't find any solid info on that now that I'm looking. Maybe the PO was trying the same thing the PO of my friend's Dodge did: jam the two pipes together, fill the gap with aluminum foil, slap a hose clamp on it, and by the time the foil burns out, it's someone else's problem!

You can check the blower motor right off the battery, if it spools up with the full voltage, then it's fine. They do wear out but it sounds more like that + wire is just too shot to power it. Good luck with the fused lead, hopefully that gets it going.

I pulled mine out the first time I ran codes, but just because I'm tall and couldn't see what I was doing. It also allowed me to remove the PO's surprisingly varied collection of french fries. Now that the fries are gone and I know where the thing is, I can just slide it forward and go for it.

Okay, so, a few issues here. The blower voltage not changing with fan speed does not surprise me. The device that controls the fan speed is just a resistor pack, and at low currents, resistors aren't very effective. Given how low the resistances in the pack are, and how high the resistance of your meter is, you're likely to see full power on any setting--it's when you start drawing power (with the fan motor) that the resistor pack comes into play. If you want to see it change, you'd have to test across the terminals of the fan while it's running. I would not expect to see full battery voltage at the fan connector, but 11.2 with the engine running is low. Sounds like the compressor clutch isn't getting enough juice to engage fully, and it's overwhelming the circuit when it tries. There's clearly a bad connection somewhere. My bet is a bad ground under the dash somewhere (which running a new + line wouldn't help). Find which pin of the blower is ground, put a test lead from that to ground, see if the voltage on it comes up? Also check out your fuse links (on and around the positive terminal), the terminals themselves, and whether the battery's got a full charge. A battery dead enough to cause your problems would probably not start the thing, but it's good to rule it out. Wiring's always fun to sort out... hopefully it's just a loose bolt somewhere.

Looks good! Never would've thought to use bolts like that, but it seems like the loading on them is pretty close to what they were made for. I'll bet the rubber bushings last longer with the swivel links in there. One question, what are the big nubs on the axle ends of the links for?

Thought I'd replied to this one. I would expect it to keep running "off" until your next fill-up. Run it down to very little fuel remaining, fuel up, and that should dilute whatever water is left to where it doesn't matter much. After a few tanks it should be back to normal.

If hitting the dash makes it work, I suspect the problem is with the dash and not the sensor. It could still explain the trans issue, depending on how it's wired (don't know offhand).

If your truck overheats, you might as well use that heat to bake up some cookies.

12.2 is low. Those lights sound like alternator trouble, but you may have just run the battery down by leaving the code scanner in all night. I'd let it idle (or drive around a bit, somewhere you won't die if the battery does) and see if the voltage comes back up/warning lights go out.

A mechanic who knows Nissans can probably do the job as well as the dealer (and has probably done more of them). Mine cost $800 locally, though that does include an $80 radiator (found to be leaking during the job). Your mileage may vary. Also ask for specifics on that safety check--they don't make money unless they find something wrong. My friend took her Pontiac to a Les Schwab with a brake pulse (later diagnosed as a warped rotor) and they tried to tell her the whole hub was shot and the wheel was going to fall off. As far as the dash fix, it's one of those things that takes long enough that you don't want to pay a shop for it, but simple enough that you can do it yourself. Take pictures as you take things apart (to help you put it back together), think before you yank on something, and you should be alright. Just make sure you won't need the truck in the morning!

That sounds more like a loose belt than a rattle to me, but yeah, having someone else rev it might help you track it down. Just make sure it's in park and well chocked! I ended up "fixing" my heat shields like how ETCG did, except that I used baling wire instead of hose clamps. Even cheaper, and it's held up too.

Terranovation, keep in mind, we only got the gas motors in the US, and gassers don't come with fuel/water separation equipment. That's a diesel thing. ATF might do something to diesel that helps with water (?) but I can't imagine it being any help getting water out of a gas tank. I'd probably use some kind of fuel stabilizer like what you put in a lawnmower before storing it (HEET isopropanol or similar)--the idea is that the alcohol in that stuff mixes with the water, and the mix burns better than just water would. Isopropyl alcohol might also work, but make sure it's the 99% stuff, the watered down rubbing alcohol isn't good for much. Hopefully a little alcohol in the tank sorts her out. If not, let us know, maybe there's something else wrong.

IIRC Harbinger did a swap on his rig, but that was a VG30 truck, and it'll likely be different for your TD27.

I assume turn signals/hazards use the same flasher unit, but I could be wrong.

Ah... door locks. [spits out cigar] Welcome to hell, kid. The lock timer's located in the left side of the cargo area, behind the plastic trim. There's the plastic bit that goes around the rear hatch striker, remove the phillips screws (don't press down, they're plastic and they don't grip well) and peel it up, and then pop out the little tail light access hatch, grab that plastic side piece, and pull it out (simple push clips). You're looking for a little plastic box with a label that says Door Lock Timer. The solder joints crack sometimes and make it act up. Cleaning it up and resoldering it might fix your problem. My lock issues are sporadic enough that I have no idea if it helped or not. I still need to check the door assemblies on mine, so I'm no help there. I did have my driver's side lock motor to bits, and it has internal contacts to engage/disengage the motor; I cleaned it up, put it back together, and didn't notice a difference. But, again, sporadic issues. Mine act up when they're cold, and I can't get worked up about sticking my hands into the door panels when it's cold out. Then it warms up, the issue goes away, and I forget all about it for nine months!

Presumably the Jeeper market can bear it, but yeah, even if I had that kind of money laying around, I'd be packing a PVC tube with sand and trying my luck with torch bending. Looks like that Patrol (?) doesn't have an air cleaner on the TB like what yours has, so the airbox is necessary anyway. The owner probably went custom to free up some space, or to get around sealing up all the resonator holes etc in the stock box.

Sounds like your turn signals are shorted somewhere. Any collision damage in the truck's history? I'd say check the bulbs, but it sounds like it blows in either direction, so that's not likely it. Maybe there's a problem with the flasher unit?

I had the driver's door off to do the hinge pins. Great visibility, but I wouldn't want to park it somewhere like that.

I can see why you're worried, looks like you were pretty close there! It's a good thing the cleaner dishes up in the middle. The MPFI trucks have the air filter box on the driver's fender, and I've heard of people putting a sock in there to absorb a little water if it does happen to get in. Looks like the TBI air cleaner is a little tight for that, but I imagine it wouldn't be too tough to add some kind of sump to it. I'd have to look at where the air filter sits, but I imagine you could drill a hole where the water pools, solder a steel jar lid underneath, screw the jar in, and have basically a catch container for the cleaner to drain into, which you could check after water crossings to see if your snorkel's leaking. Then again, I'm probably overthinking a problem that's as simple as putting a snorkel on there and sealing it up properly.

Sounds like a plan. Something I've heard about RTV, you can apply it, put the parts together finger tight, then tighten fully once it's cured, and that way the resulting gasket has a bit of pressure on it, and you're not just banking on the surface adhesion.

I meant the motor as in the engine, not the valve itself; IIRC it's solenoid driven. I can see how the idle air valve cycling would make the engine surge, but unless the whole assembly fell off and caused a massive vacuum leak, I don't see how it could cause the OP's stalling issue.