devonianwalk

Fried my alternator and sucked mud into my timing chamber. When the mud dried up it caused my TB to jump a couple of teeth. I'm darn lucky it didn't eat any valves. I now avoid mud like the plague.

How long will this stuff last? I see that it is easy to remove.

Trust me, there is no protection from these aluminum "guards". Mine is purely cosmetic and turns out to be a great place to mount the off-road lights. It is as useless as the tail-light guards. I'm pretty sure that they would cause more damage that if they were not mounted.

Not positive. I just recall a discussion a couple of years ago about this subject. The bar mounts to the frame behind the bumper with four bolts. The frame did not change with the face-lift, just the skin/plastics. I have the brush guard (aluminum light holder) on mine and this is how it is mounted on mine.

From what I understand, the pre-facelift Pathys ('96-99.0) have a shallower front bumper. The face-lift R50's ('99.5-'04) have a longer snout. I think that the post face-lift can be modified by drilling shallower mount points to make it "snug". It should be easy to modify if the bar is aluminum.

I have always kept a couple of 4"x6" wood blocks with me to use my factory bottle jack since I've done my AC lift. Why wouldn't that be sufficient? I've just recently been in the market for a hi-lift jack for another project that I've been working on. I have never really considered one for my 99.5 R50 because it only has the plastic bumpers. I just can't find a feasible way to use one without destroying the body or bumpers on my Pathy.

Just check the fluids. I recently resurrected an old Jeep that was sitting for four years. I did an oil change and flushed the radiator before firing her up. Oh, the fuel went bad (varnished) over that time so I removed the fuel lines and replaced the tank. I didn't know that gas actually only has a shelf life of thirty days. Really? Thirty days?

I used this on my wife's Prelude. I felt that it was a good sealant. It is pretty tacky so, make sure you surfaces are clean and free of lint. I actually did a practice spray on the old gasket to see what I was dealing with. I suggest you do the same? *edit .. Just noticed that I am a few days late for the advice. How's it working for out?

My professional mechanic buddy told me to do the same! He also informed me that if I start to hear funny noises to turn the radio up. I'll tell you one thing, I will never buy a used car that is advertised as a "mechanic owned" vehicle!

We do not have vehicle inspections in South Carolina. I would just love to get the SES light to turn off as I have been staring at it for the past four years (est.).

I almost snagged a canister from a '98 that was dangling by the hoses at the JY last weekend. I shook it to see if I could detect loose carbon but, couldn't really determine. Has anyone tried gutting the can?

I just poured a bottle of Bars to stop a cold water leak in my Heep. It really worked! I placed some cardboard in front of the radiator so to run the engine temp up to 240-250f. After two or three restarts the crack in the iron block sealed.

It's obviously an O2 sensor .. right? Let's start the "which bank is it?" wager. I'm going with "left bank".

Discovered an exhaust leak with my ear. Passenger side under the front door me thinks?

Well played sir. Well played!

Sweet! It'll be fun watching your build. I wish we could get away with limo tint in South Carolina. We don't have annual vehicle inspections but, the law will crack down on you quick if you have dark tint .. go figure?

That's what I'm hoping for with my CJ5. I've applied for a title and intend to drive it on nice days. Mines an old beater though .. I still need seat belts and wipers.

Try getting them from Rob first. He is an active member that runs the parts counter at a Nissan dealership. He drastically discounts parts for all of us cool kids! Here is the link to the first page of his thread .. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/

^^^^ This. Exactly this. I always order parts for a 2000 for my '99.5.

The strut mounts should work with the new struts. However, it is recommended to replace them and the strut bearings as you will have the whole assembly removed. I went to my local Nissan dealership for factory mounts and bearings as I heard a lot of negatives about cheap aftermarket replacements.

^^^ This. You can also use Acetone and a chain. I broke down and got a tank off of Rockauto in the end. I realized my tank ('77 CJ5) rusted all the way through when Acetone started flying all over my legs when I was shaking the tank.

The AC springs give a higher lift (2"). The OME springs are 0.5" and go up to 1.5". I believe that is the reason that AC suggests them. Well, that and they sell 'em.

I'm still wrapping my head around the fact that you joined the "dark side".

I had success using two kits (4 bolts) keeping my tires straight. Others claim that they are not necessary. I'd recommend holding off on getting them if you decide that you don't develop the "bulldog" stance.

The bolts only correct the camber. The tow is easily corrected by the alignment guru's.