88pathoffroad

That's about it.

Good point, good point. I retract my suspicions of the blower resistor after having a cup of coffee and reading Simon's post.

Pull one out and measure it, then add 3".

I've done mine numerous times. Just don't spray the distributor and try not to directly spray wiring connectors. A garden hose and Purple Power degreaser actually works just as well as pressure washing.

Sounds like the linkage inside the hatch has come undone. I guess you'll have to attempt pulling plastic off from inside to get to the latch linkage and get it opened. On the fan thing, the blower resistor is probably shot.

Ugh, not again!

The oil pump could also be leaking...

My bar is more for prying rocks or trees out of the way, but yes, it can be used in the sand. That thing is damn near immobile when you pound it down to the eye in sand. It used to be a 4' utility pole anchor. I cut the spiral steel anchor end off and chisel-tipped it. That Cabela's thing doesn't look all that strong...and they don't specify a weight rating on the website. I wouldn't really trust that thing to hold the weight of a 4200 lb Pathy stuck in the mud. A quad, sure, but not a Super Duty like they have in the picture. I've been thinking about making my own land anchor too, should be a fun project.

All I can say is that there are some scammy stores out there. I used to work for Jiffy Lube; every job I did was correct and I never had anyone come back with problems we caused. *shrug*

Doesn't that suck? Emissions crap that doesn't affect a damn thing...one guy in Cali spills a cup of gas on the ground filling his lawnmower and the entire thing goes out the window...

Ditto. The steering and suspension parts are notorious for being loose even when they don't "feel like it" through the steering wheel. The alignment shop could do an alignment and then when you go to leave the looseness of the parts will result in the alignment being off every time you turn a corner.

That would be the power transistor, it receives signal from the ECU to trigger the coil; it doesn't send anything back. It's worth a shot if you can find a cheap replacement.

My Optima red-top has been in five different vehicles over more than 10 years and it still starts the Pathy perfectly.

I would get under there with a wire coat-hanger and re-hang the exhaust temporarily before trying to figure out transmission problems. It may simply be the exhaust banging on the frame every time you give it gas.

Yeah, I think it's once every 12 rotations that everything lines up perfect. Or was it 24? 4-cycle engine...

You don't have an owner's manual? You can download one from several places on the net for free.

Sounds like the R&P may need work or replacement.

It will ride fine. Yes, they fit fine. It works OK, but be careful if you make any sharp turns on the road. The body roll is definitely increased with no swaybar.

The CAS is inside the distributor. To replace it you usually just have to replace the distributor whole. The other error code is probably being generated by the CAS errors.

Is the muffler supported by it's mount or is it broken or hanging free? Looks to me like you need another hanger on there.

You want stock suspension travel or after mods?

Bah, haven't you seen the 8" body lift they sell in Japan?

I changed the filename so I could find it easier. Sorry.

The Warn hubs seem to be a fairly inexpensive way to reliably increase MPG's as far as I've seen. With today's prices on gas, I would think that the cost of the hubs will come back to you in the MPG savings pretty quickly.

Good deal, Dan. Thanks!