88pathoffroad

Alignment needs tweaking. Steering symptoms like that indicate to me that toe or camber needs adjustment.

Cap and rotor still good? Plug wires? They tend to cause problems like you're having when they have something wrong with them.

AFAIK the CAS is perma-mounted inside the distributor. The screw heads are epoxied over. Most people just get a new distributor altogether.

Cut the old O2 sensor bung out of the old exhaust and weld it into the new one in roughly the same place, after the y-pipe. Don't use large-diameter pipe if you're not going to run a muffler, 2 1/4" max would be my guess. It needs SOME backpressure or it will actually hurt performance, which I'm guessing is why you put headers on in the first place...

Pinpoint where it leaks from. Have someone else sit in it and give it gas while you listen or listen for the leak at idle.

Cargo area, passenger's side on the wall just inside the hatch. It's accessible via window or hatch from the rear.

If it's not overheating, what's the problem? Hot comes in the top, cool goes out the bottom...normal operation. Is the heater blowing lukewarm air? I didn't quite understand what your problem is.

You can take the trans and t-case out as a pair OK, I did on the 89. Just a lot of unbolting, following wires and detaching stuff...

Buy a thermostat kit and follow the instructions. It's really not that hard.

Do the valve covers first. Check your oil filter too, it could have been double-gasketed and the oil is dribbling down the block to the rear. The RMS is usually not a source of major leakage as far as I've seen. 'Course there's always the exception...

Could also be rack bushings...the rack is bolted to the firewall/unibody with rubber bushings/mounts that can wear out or degrade over time and become loose. I went through that several times on my Impulses.

$40 for a taillight is nothing when they cost $400 from a dealership.

BTW: the "kickdown switch" is the throttle position sensor/switch. It serves two purposes, as a on/off idle switch AND a throttle position sensor. Being mal-adjusted can cause trans shifting problems at times.

FYI: the Venom module is probably not going to help. It's one of those "Let's trick the ECU into feeding more fuel to the engine" mods that only wastes gas. I have my doubts about it's power-adding properties as well. Headers, intake, a good exhaust and cams are a sure ticket for better power. Cams help out a lot after you've got the headers and all. An ECU upgrade after that will be the icing on the cake. No idea on total numbers after all that but it can't be far short of your goal. You can also advance timing a few degrees and see how she runs, sometimes it will ping(detonate) with advanced timing, so take it easy on the advance. Running 89 octane will help in that department. In other news, how the hell did you fit 35's on there with only a 3" body lift? PICS!!

By design, starters are unsealed. They need a drain hole for water entry. So...mud and salt could feasibly kill the brushes/commutator, etc internally over 5 years.

You need to readjust the tie rod adjusters for better toe. The front tires should toe in towards each other very slightly when you're done.

The stock WD21 LSD has a breakaway force of around 280 lbs IIRC. I may be off, but the newer ones are REAL loose, like at 160 lbs? If it still drives fine around corners and doesn't make any wierd noises it should be OK.

Could just be poor connections on the starter, or the starter is gone. The cheapest fix is to check the wiring first.

A tweeky solenoid pack might have something to do with it, but you have to tear the pan and valvebody off to get to them. Auto trans problems are always a mystery...

If it was in park, doesn't that stop the driveshaft from spinning anyway?

Good times. Ghosts in the Pathy shell...

Take a look through the body gap inside the wheelwell and see if you can't take off the shield. Might help, I think when mine came out it still had the shield on but I do have a body lift.

Ditto, the alternator will light both lights when it goes out.

Jim's messing with stuff, no idea. It's his baby...

That should work...just don't force the cams around. Count the teeth on the belt between each timing mark to make sure. 40 teeth between the cam pulley dots and 43 teeth between the driver's side cam dot and the crank dot. Let me guess, yours didn't have a match-mark on the oil pump for the crank sprocket either?