88pathoffroad

If you'd read his posts in this very thread, you'd see that you can get it from Summit Racing for around $53.

Ugh, another popular-vehicles-only club. If I owned a H2, H3 or Tacoma I'd go there...

A good polish with quality car care products like Meguiars or Mother's or 3M would be a good first step. Then wax and detail, see how it goes. I've never used the clay bar thing but from the looks of it that system is probably only good for paint in good condition to begin with. I could be wrong! Try it and let us know!

I've never had any fuel filter probs either, but I haven't really been keeping tabs on what brand I've been using. I really don't think Fram filters are all that bad(99% of the parts stores around here carry nothing BUT Fram filters, ugh) but after reading the oil filter comparison article, it couldn't hurt to go with a better filter for safety's sake, you know? On another note, I've test-fitted a PH3600 filter on the Pathy and it works fine...the 3600 is slightly larger(longer) than the stock size filter so you get a slight increase in oil capacity and filtering media surface area, which is a good thing. I do have a 3" body lift for easier access, but several other people have tried the larger filter with success. Just an idea!

OK. Boy, that sounds like fun. Well, to begin with here's this write-up. http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/ Here's another thread with a TON of info in it. Post in that thread so we can keep the topics together, K? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14532 Final note: re-gearing is NOT cheap unless you score used gears from somewhere. Gear sets run about $500 per axle from Nissan or AC and they're the only people you can get them from.

Yep, that's about it. It's not that bad of a problem unless you have a huge leak that blares exhaust noise all the time.

What would you define as an "upgrade" to the stock front end?

Stock temp gauges are weird, a common complaint is the temp gauge reading low. There is a temp sensor that feeds only the gauge that you can replace. The thermostat is a bitch to get to and change for no reason.

Boy, am I glad that's over. Sheesh.

Not to pee in your cornflakes, but... This is a cool idea and would be very neat if someone could do it, but the cost of such a project is going to be prohibitive with little advantages over lifted stock components aside from more travel. You'll still be dealing with all the weak points of the stock IFS system, only with new control arms and possibly new CV's. Long-travel IFS is good for Baja trucks and vehicles that see high-speed driving over deserts and perhaps on more difficult terrain at slower speeds, but on a 4000-4200 lb Pathfinder it's largely unnecessary IMHO. If you broke a CV wheeling, you'd have to fabricate a new one or build spares, too.

If the axle seals are leaking, replace the seals. No need to replace the entire rear axle!

The insulation will do that if you pressure wash it. The airdam thing looks OK to me. Not bad, needs a lot of cleaning and messing with. What was the price and mileage again?

A MC shouldn't cost that much. Have you checked local parts stores or online retailers? $55-$79 on rockauto.com...

Fuel maps should be real close for any same-year same-engine ECU, actually. The big differences are emissions equipment and transmission type.

The FSM is about 5" thick and has thousands of pages. It will take a greater person than I to scan it all and upload it.

What'd you take the dizzy out for, anyway? It's fun getting that back in pointing the right way...

Do some searching around here... lots of topics on SAS's. A 84-87 Wagoneer non-vaccuum D44 is your best bet, followed by a early Bronco D44 with Chevy outers. IIRC.

Most likely culprit is the hatch switch, which is inside the hatch panel attached to the latch.

The Explorers I got my coolers off of in the junkyard are all mounted with the inlet and outlet at the bottom. I think if it were that big of a problem they would mount them differently from the Ford factory.

Also check trailer wiring if you have it. Pop off the driver side panel and have a look at the wiring to make sure it's not hacked up and taped together. Just in case.

Or the AC compressor switch could be sticking with the engine off? Would an energized coil in the pump staying on be enough to kill a battery overnight?

An easier way to check for clutch slippage is to put it in fourth gear from a dead stop and see if it will let you take off that way. If it stalls out, the clutch is holding and should be OK. If it goes, it's likely slipping and needs a new one. Definitely make sure you put in 5.1 liters of fluid and NOT 3.6 as per the FSM and other service manuals. The fill hole on the manual FS5R30A transmission (V6 5-speed manual tranny) was located too low for proper gear lubrication, the fix is to add more gear oil either by tipping the truck to one side and adding fluid or by removing the gear shifter and pouring it in through there. Use brass-friendly GL-4 gear oil only, NOT regular GL-5, just in case. Martin has more info on specifics of gear oil, I think. I know not the oil weight ratings and interchanges due to synthetic oils and reformulations at the moment. Nissan supposedly corrected the case design in 1996.

IIRC red is 12V+, black is - and white is signal.

Take off the lines and flush them out with carb cleaner or a similar solvent. They have to come off if you're swapping transmissions anyway.

Check your cap and rotor too. Air filter, fuel filter, clean the MAF sensor, all those things can cause a stumble or hesitation.