88pathoffroad

I really have no idea on that one. Is it an early 2.4L or a 2.0L? Check in at the AC board's 720 forum for more info, I'd say.

Swaybar end link bushings, front AND rear. Check your upper control arm bushings, as well as your rear axle control arm bushings.

A $500 paint job isn't gonna be pretty, but it'll be shiny at least. Cheap suspension lift recipe: I suggested the BJ spacers in the case you would like a bit more lift than the stock upper control arms will allow. They're not really necessary, but they would help. Same with the 1/1.5" coil spring spacer. You choose what you want on shocks. A lot of people say the Rancho 5000's are too stiff for their taste, but I like mine just fine. Trailmaster ES3000 shocks are OK, and I really can't think of any other major offroad shock absorber manufacturer. Bilstein? KYB? *shrug* So: about $220 - $360, depending on how you go about it. A 3" body lift would cost you about $125(and allow you to retain the stock suspension geometry and function, if you go the suspension route, your balljoints, steering system, misc front end bushings and alignment will wear out faster) but installation costs will kick your wallet's butt. If you want to go that route, doing it yourself would be best. I wrote up a webpage about how to install a body lift on a Pathfinder, if you want to check it out, it's here. http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html Other suggested relatively cheap add-ons: a Rancho steering stabilizer($45 for the shock, $20 for the mount kit), idler arm brace(AC, $29), fog or driving lights(PIAA, Hella, Rally, whatever you like, price depends), and engine tune-up parts(gotta make sure it runs decent too!). 31x10.50 tires will fit the easiest, 3.75 - 4" backspacing on wheels, try to stick to a 7" or 8" wide wheel to prevent rubbing problems. 32x11.50's fit with a 3" lift, but you'll have to trim the fenders quite a bit or the tires will scrub themselves to death around corners and offroad and it'll tear up your tire tread.

You don't have to buy a whole new ignition setup just to put on new wires, onsight. If they do not list an application for your Pathfinder from MSD, though...you WILL have to make your own wires out of a generic set. I'd check into getting a generic crimp-together kit for a V8, shouldn't cost too much more and you'll get two spare wires with it. I've had the MSD Offroad 6 ignition in mine for a while, but the coil I was using with it went bad so I had to unhook the MSD box and go back to stock until I can finance a new coil. It worked OK, but the power gain/running difference was very slight. No biggie, and it's not a cheap setup, either. It WAS a PITA to install. I talked to several guys at MSD on the proper way to connect everything, one of them said it couldn't be installed on a Pathfinder at all, the other guy told me the wrong wires to use, so I finally just figured it out myself. I also needed a tachometer adapter for the tach to continue working with the MSD ignition. LOTS of wires, lots of connections, lots of fun. You might consider the Direct Hits ignition enhancers instead, I know that somethingcool has them and he said they work great.

Might be that your tranny is starting to go on you. Make sure you get it completely full on gear oil(if it's a manual tranny, of course). On the manuals, the fill plug is located too low for a proper fill-up on gear oil. It should take 1.5 quarts more than you can get in there with the plug out. Many people take the shifter off and pour gear oil in from the top.

That actually looks like a one-off custom-built vehicle to me, now that I can get a good look at it. It has leaf springs in the rear, doesn't it? I'd say it looks like someone cut up two Nissan 720's, stuck the extra doors off one onto the other, built a roof, incorporated a Pathfinder tailgate, and made their own version of a Pathfinder. They do it all the time to make limos, why not a Nissan? It's definitely based on a 720 pickup, though. All flat fenders, the front end, and the doors are all 720 items. Could very well be a 1986, cause that's when they quit making the 720's and started with the HB's. What's the VIN #? You/we can run that and see what it comes up as.

Mmmyep. You may have put the anchors on a bit too far forward.

lgranch: White paper?? Are you talking about some way to sneak past emissions, per se? I personally don't much care. Oregon only has emissions requirements in the Portland metro area anyway, AFAIK. I have no cat on my Pathy, no EGR valve(well, it's unplugged, heh), and none of my other cars would ever pass emissions if it were required anyway.

Heh. No comment. No preference. No experience with anyone that's used one. Sorry, please drive through!

Not on mine, there isn't. Did you get a set of solidcore wires or supression wires? Mine are Taylor 8mm braided supression core wires.

I've had my radiator fan shroud break and the fan hit it sometimes, but not all the time. It's since been replaced.

Er, no...from 86.5-89, the ECU has a switch for diagnostics, and from 90-up it has the little knob. Same instructions, just use the ones that apply to your ECU in particular.

Yes, it's the square plugs on the diffs. The top plug is the fill plug and the bottom one is the drain plug. Loosen and remove the fill plug FIRST so you can make sure you'll be able to refill the diff(sometimes the fill plugs are tough to get out). The rear diff drain plug will have a magnet on it with some material stuck to it. That's normal. Just clean it off as best you can before putting it back in. I'm not sure on weights for gear oil on your particular vehicle, but I use 75W-90 gear oil in my front and rear diffs and transfer case. Rear diff should take 2 quarts or so, t-case 1.5, and front diff 1.5. Just fill it up to the level of the bottom of the fill plug and put the plug back in.

When I'm offroading, antifreeze bounces out of the reservoir sometimes.

Screwed to the back of one of the rear seats works for a lot of people, you just have to run a lot of wiring. You can get a piece of fabric or carpet to cover it up with if nothing else. I've even seen one guy use a pair of women's nylons to wrap around his amp to conceal it. He used the closest color to his carpet and seats that he could find and it looked OK.

Hehehehe It'll do that if the alternator goes out on you. The three lights at the same time, that is. Mayhap it's internal voltage regulator is dying and it's producing more than 14V at higher RPM's? I know that the regulator in mine died once and the alternator was putting out 18V AT IDLE before I caught it and got a new one.

I second the new caliper idea. Sounds like one of them isn't doing it's job properly anymore.

The one under the passenger's side seat is the ECU and the one under the drivers side seat would be the factory alarm/remote entry module.

It's rather simple. Would you like a back door that has an openable window, or not? Sheesh.

Post pics of yours, man. The Sani's were only made in South Africa and some parts of South America as far as I know. There shouldn't be any in the US unless someone took great pains to import one.

Chromotech, we're talking about oil FILTERS, not oil. I've never heard anything good about Fram filters, by the way. The NAPA Gold filters are good, the K&N filters are way overpriced, and I think Fram makes the Wix filters as well. All I know is that I've seen people say that Fram filters are crap over and over again. They might be cheap, but the quality sucks. Look at this webpage for more info. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

A Sani was a fabricated offroad truck based on a Terrano built by the Sani company in South Africa.

It shouldn't use ANY brake fluid. If it's leaking out, you need to pay attention to it before you attempt to avoid a wreck by slamming on the brakes and they blow out completely on you. There's no aftermarket support for MC's. Just get a new one. I put one on mine, took about 1 hour. I think it cost $40. Rotors aren't cheap, but if you need new ones, then you need new ones. *shrug*

Yes.

You can get those same bumper lights for $19 at a few different places, like www.clearlights.com.