88pathoffroad

Well, of course you wouldn't bolt a winch to your bumper. It takes a brush guard or other kind of frame-mounted winch plate for that. If you had a burly, heavy duty front bumper with a 2" reciever in it, you could use a winch cradle, and it'd be swappable from front to rear. And yes, many other people have winches mounted in their brushguards and aftermarket bumpers, like Jim.

Nope. A body lift doesn't have anything to do with shock length.

Use a pipe or breaker bar to loosen the nuts(with another wrench or ratchet on the head of the bolt), and you'll have to check on the clearance for the CL mount. It might work to just bend the brackets out of the way.

You could try L&P Performance's centerlink as a stock replacement. I'll be getting one when I have the $$.

Are you saying you just want to run the pipe only, or with a muffler? Straight piping sans muffler, it will be LOUD and raspy. 2.5" pipe is a good size for our engines.

I believe so, yes.

5252 front, 5118 rear. If you want rears that are 1.2" longer, go with 5116. More flex from the rear!

They're on the frame end. If you notice, the bumper brackets go through the body in the front... The front bumper lift brackets are the rectangular holepunched gold ones. You didn't need to take out your AC and grille man, but that's your thing. *shrug* http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

I didn't say that the 87's ONLY came with sealed windows, it was simply an option that year. Mine doesn't have a glass opener switch, but it's an XE....ah well.

That doesn't look like anything broke, it simply looks like a worn out fragment of clutch disc spacer or something. That's a very small piece. The kind of chunks you don't want to see are little crunched up bits of gear teeth... Did you add the limited slip fluid when you changed it? That might be another thing to consider.

The RS9000 and the RS9000X are the adjustable ones. The 9000's are 5-way adjustable, and the 9000X's are 9-way adjustable(with triple tubed body walls). The 5000's are standard heavy duty offroad valved shocks, RSX's are nitrogen-charged, with different internal valving that self-adjusts for each impact or compression. The 5000's just react the same way with each bump. Top of the line:

Has anyone tried swapping tires for a set of new ones and seeing if that helps? I've heard wierd things about tires just plain causing vibration after they get enough miles on them, and new tires fixing the problem...

Pics aren't working. The H233B will hold 3 quarts. It's a big diff.

It may very well be your auto hubs. Try taking them apart, cleaning them up and regreasing them. That might do it, I dunno.

Sounds like the floorpan shifter boot didn't get put back on the right way or something. That's kinda wierd.

I get a little bit of whine through the stereo speakers, but only if it's turned down to about #2 or 4 on the volume. My volume goes from 0 to 38. At about 16 it gets loud, and at 22 it's almost deafening. I just replaced my plugs with NGK V-Power plugs, and it runs just fine. I have the Taylor Spiro-Pros, and they cost me about $50.

My t-case has gear oil in it. Wierd, did they change design somewhere and I wasn't told about it?

The CV's on Pathfinders don't spin unless you're in 4WD. Have a friend help you out...your friend needs to turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look uinderneath and listen for the noise. If anything moves or shifts around too much, that part may be shot and need replacing. Try and ID where it's coming from. Your info so far is a bit too sketchy to tell anything from.

I don't blame Jim for not keeping up with the requests for membership at the moment, he's recovering from a full-invasive surgery and bacterial infection. You can email me your pic and I'll host it on my website for free. Then I'll send you back the link(URL) to use for it and you can just post that.

Idle speed should be about 900 on a manual with the clutch in, and about 700 on an auto in Drive. I think. Start checking things. Vaccuum hoses are notorious for mysteriously falling off or becoming hardened, which leads to cracking and leaks and poor overall performance. Your O2 sensor could also be a cause. Run the ECU codes and see if it comes up with anything.

Sounds like it's having problems to me. Still running the stock cooler? Do anything else to it recently? Is it still doing stuff like on a consistent basis, or was it just that once?

Hardbody pickups sit 1.5" higher off the frame than Pathfinders do, stock. Take a look at one and see if it still looks so funny.

Ditto. Just don't drive it like a hot rod and try to take corners fast. Both my front and rear swaybars have been off for about a year now. Rami, I'd say it'd be safe to just take it off entirely. Your call.

I'd say that if you had a link to a webpage that had that info on it, it wouldn't be a problem, but posting the info directly on this board would probably be a bad idea.

A local hot rod shop. I bought a generic V6 kit and a crimper and made my own ends for them. Wish I had bought a V8 kit instead so I could have extra wires, but oh well. Hindsight is always 20/20, they say...