88pathoffroad

Brand new pair of rotors from Ebay: $49 Brand new brake pads(performance semimetallic): $30 Brand new loaded calipers: $50 each Brand new rubber brake lines: $20 each side Total: $170. Install time: about 3-4 hours tops. I think you got ripped off by a fair amount, man.

The thermostat is located in the front center of the engine, between the upper and lower timing covers. The lower radiator hose connects to a pipe that connects to a short rubber spacer that connects to the thermostat housing. It's a PITA to get to. Blowing seals? Nope. I installed a new WP about a year ago on mine, not a single problem. Seals leaking are usually a sign of neglect, abuse or old seals and gaskets.

Nonono man, you don't have to take the wheels and brakes off. Take off the centercaps, unscrew the six allen head bolts holding on the hub, then pull the hub off. The allen head bolts will be REAL tight on there, I think they Loc-Tite the bolts at the factory. Take care not to lose or misplace any parts that go inside, cause if it gets put back together wrong it won't work. I'd suggest taking the hub whole and laying the parts out on a clean shop towel or cardboard box or something and putting all the parts in a row in the order they were taken out. Then just clean as much of the old grease off the internal parts as you can, regrease with new bearing grease and reassemble. Smush some new grease into the cavity and around the axle stub before you put the hub back on.

Check the distributor wiring. Make sure the connections are all tight.

My Impulse. Looks good under there though, doesn't it?

Well, originally they did, but over time the internal valving on the electronically adjustable shocks tends to fade and not work so well. There should be a switch on your dash that says "Sport/Touring". That's for the shock stiffness settings.

He didn't say where he was from, so I have no idea what to guess,

Two 6" 3/8" drive extensions, one with a wobbler end and the other with a u-joint. Easy as pie. Just keep the u-joint steady with your fingers.

I drilled a 3/8" hole in the roof, ran the wiring through, then siliconed the hole up. Doesn't leak a drop and works just fine. The wiring runs down the inside of the front pillar plastic to the driver's side kick panel, where I have a relay. Switch is on the dash.

Garrett T-25. .60 AR turbine, .54 trim compressor. Water cooled.

Who says a turbo won't fit under the hood of a Pathfinder?

Good man, Pete.

First off, it's a locker, not "lockers". It locks the axleshafts together so both tires spin at the same time. Hence it's name. If you're just running in the desert on rocks or whatnot, then a front locker would be a good thing to have. A winch is always a great add-on, but if you can't get to where you want to go because your front end isn't locked, then you'll wish you had one. It all depends on what you want.

I've had some power problems(no high RPM power, popping at light throttle, sometimes it would die when I hit the gas) with my VG30i since last time I tore it apart and put a new timing belt on, so I finally decided to go back in there a year later. By this time, I'm thoroughly tired of it running crappily. I took it all back apart to see what I did wrong. This is what the front end of the VG30 engine looks like with the timing cover off and no belt. Evidently, I was off by about one tooth on the crank gear when I put my new belt on. This time, I very carefully checked to find top dead center for the #1 cylinder by taking a long piece of #3 copper ground wire(ground the end down and sanded it carefully to prevent scratching my piston) and moved the crank around to find exact TDC so I could set the timing correctly. The cams were both advanced one tooth too far. The timing marks for the cam gears are easy to see and compare. Here's the bottom side. And here's the freshly punched timing mark that the Chilton's book said was already there. When I got underneath and looked, there were no marks of any kind to help me align the crankshaft, so I found TDC and punched a mark on the edge of the engine where it should have been. Grrrr... So, I took the belt back off, am in the process of getting a new belt(insurance against having to do it again) and a 180 degree thermostat(I had a 190 degree 'stat in there, and it seemed to run hot to me), and that's where I sit at the moment. I'm cleaning and repainting the timing cover and pulleys so they look good. Just thought maybe people would like to see what's involved with changing the timing belt.

It depends on what kind of driving you do and how much you have to spend. The only locker you can get for the front is a ARB air locker, which runs about $700+. If you want to drive over rocks and up hills fulltime, offroad your Pathfinder hardcore, and often feel that you need the front end locked, then sure. If you drive to the grocery store more often than on the trails, then no. A winch would be a GREAT investment. Not only can you use it to save yourself, you can use it to save other people's rigs. The only thing is, you need a winch mount first.

A serpentine belt is flat, with ribs on the side facing the pulleys. A V-belt is a single, thin, v-shaped belt designed to fit one groove in the pulleys. Actually, it's more like this: \_/

My cross-drilled stainless steel brake lines make my Pathfinder faster than yours. *seriousnod*

That's the passenger side, on the fenderwell, inside the engine compartment. Just to be exact.

Wow, that a new one on me. Where do you live? AFAIK, they never made a 4-door model in '87. It could possibly be a '90 with an '87 tailgate on it... Is that the NAPS-Z 2.4L engine? Wierdness! Check the door tag inside the driver's side doorsill. It will have the production date on it.

Alternator's shot. Have it tested immediately at an auto parts store before you go on any trips. The lights all come on when the alternator goes on you, I know because I'm on my fourth one as we speak. Dang 1000W subwoofer amp, etc.

After backlash is set at the factory, there shouldn't be any need to mess with it, even when swapping third members around. I'd tear it apart and see what looks worn first. Might just be axle bearings. Are the rear brakes OK? Checked on them recently? I had an axle seal go out and dump gear oil on my brakes on one side a while back...

Just by chance, did you measure before and after to see how much you got from that lift kit? I thought it was just a 2" lift. Remember, the coils will settle in after a bit and you'll get a bit less out of them. I'd just take it to have a front end alignment. $45 versus messing it up yourself = clear choice to me.

Pacesetter headers don't fit auto Pathys either. You have to have the crossover pipe cut to fit for both the Thorleys and the Pacesetters. Any exhaust shop worth their salt should be able to do that easily and not charge too much for it. Personally, I'd install the headers at home and drive merrily on down to the shop, blaring away. It'd save a TON on install costs. CHEVEL67NI: Wow. Yeah, you can do better by finding the filter and adapter for less...but it's your money.

#1 is the centerlink end...it is a balljoint, but it's not the one you need to check, specifically when someone's talking about balljoints. The joints on the centerlink are just referred to as part of the CL itself. #2 is the centerlink, yes. Otherwise known as the drag link. #3 is the pitman arm. Attached to the steering box, yes-no? The idler arm is on the other side and simply sits idle, allowing the CL joint to move back and forth. The pitman arm actually applies a sideways motion to the CL, which is why they're different. The regular balljoints are located at the ends of the control arms, just inside your wheel and directly above and below your front brake disc. To check movement of balljoints: jack up vehicle, remove wheel, use a long prybar to wedge between upper control arm and the steering knuckle. Carefully try to push up and down with the prybar. If the balljoint moves in any direction but side to side, it should be replaced. To check steering linkage movement, have a friend sit in the driver's seat. Start the vehicle and crank the wheels all the way one direction or the other. Shut off the vehicle but leave the key in the "ACC" position so the steering wheel will still turn back and forth without locking. Have your friend turn the steering wheel back and forth repeatedly while you look underneath at the idler arm, CL, tie rods and balljoints. Also watch the upper control arms, if the bushings are bad the UCA will flex towards the frame against the bushings. To observe the other side of the vehicle, turn the wheels the other way and have your friend do the same thing. If any of the joints move up and down or back and forth too much, they are probably worn out and should be replaced. Normal allowance for movement is very little, so any noticeable amount of play between joints should have attention paid to it. Steve:

Fuel filter. Air filter. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. New plug wires. Tune it up first.