88pathoffroad

By the way, do R&P gears swap between LSD 300ZX diffs and Pathy front diffs, are they already the same ratio, or what? I was WONDERING about those things....wouldn't mind having a posi front diff, myself...

Is anyone else tired of seeing those bullcrap Jeep ads about them all being "Trail Rated"? They're hyping it hoping the masses of sheep that buy Sheeps will think it's something special. What a crock! You can't even fit 31's on a JGC without at least a 2" lift! The Wranglers are different. I'll grant them some leeway there, being as there aren't really any other major companies producing vehicles of that platform and size. The Rubicon is good(if you resplice the sensors for the electric lockers so you can use them at more than 10 MPH). The Liberty is an absolute joke(It also has the worst history of failing and substandard parts of any new vehicle that I've ever seen. Check out carsurvey.org and see how many times the word "lemon" comes up with regards to Liberties). Liberty "Renegade", my arse. Yeah, rebel against the soccer mom image so you can take it to the grocery store instead...watch out for that curb, mom! I've seen JGC's and Cherokees pull 2-wheel-peel maneuvers and get stuck in a spot that I just drove straight through in 2WD! "Trail Rated" my behind. I love it when a Jeep can't drive up a hill in wet grass because it only gets one front and one rear tire spinning on those spiffy skinny no-tread street tires they come with. Hahahaha.

There is a fuse for both, yes.

Well, that's only if he's comfortable taking apart his rear diff down to the third member case. Hehe

You could also just use a quick splice and not have to cut anything at all. Those "crimpy-thingies" as you so eloquently put it, are called quick splice connectors or splice connectors. The proper way to reconnect cut automotive wiring is to solder the ends back together and use either electrical tape or shrink tubing to insulate the wiring. JasonMiller: No. If you wire it so that the driving light relay wire is attached to the high beams, then your driving lights will only turn on when the high beams are on. If you wire it so the relay turns on using the low beam wire, they will come on with your low beams. How hard is it to understand? Sheesh. Here's a simply worded bit I found in thirty seconds with a Google search.

Nick, you would recommend chopping off the low beam headlight wire just so your driving lights work? I think you left a few details out, there...

Use a voltmeter or voltage tester to identify any wire with 12V coming to it. Hopefully the radar detector doesn't pull too much amperage in normal use to pop the fuse for the accessory you're drawing the power off of. Grounding it to any solid metal fixture should work fine.

I did both of my front axle inner CV boots myself and it cost me like $20 per side for the boots. Good learning experience, too.

The Nissan H233B LSD's don't work very well to begin with. If your Pathy has more than 100K miles, it'll most likely just plain be worn out. Take a look underneath your Pathfinder from the rear bumper. Look slightly to the left of the center of your axle. There should be an orange sticker denoting "LSD" applied to the axlehousing. Sometimes the stickers fall off or are covered in dirt, tho. Some SE Pathfinders didn't come with a LSD in the first place, so you'll need to verify whether or not you have one before worrying about what fluid type to use in it. A simple test is to jack up the rear wheels only, put the transmission in neutral(engine OFF), and spin one tire. If both tires spin in the same direction, you have a limited slip diff. If they spin in opposite directions, or only one tire spins, you have an open diff. And yes, the friction modifier additive is a good thing to put in with the gear oil when you change it. If you don't put it in, it won't necessarily hurt anything in the clutch packs, it just won't lock up as well as it might otherwise. Go by the manufacturer's reccomendations on fluid type and weight.

Ditto. Rolling resistance is increased with wider tires.

27 here. Been working on cars since I was 16.

I take it you only want the driving lights to come on when the high beams are on, right? Get an electrical tester or voltmeter. Turn on your headlights. Unplug one headlight plug from the back of the housing. There will be three wires, one ground, one low beam and one high beam wire. Now, probe the terminals inside the plug to determine which wire is currently running 12 volts. That will be your low beam power wire. Note which wire that is, and turn on your high beams. Probe the terminals again and find which wire is now also running 12 volts. That will be your high beam wire. Very simple to find out. I would suggest wiring your new lights through a relay using the high beam wire as the trigger or switching wire. Trying to run a set of driving lights off your high beam wiring will burn it out in short order, if it doesn't blow a fuse first.

Where do you think I got the Ford spring in my pictures? Huh huh? The PM I sent you should help.

Hehehehe

Hell if I know. All I can say is that I'm sick and tired of trying to fix the thing. It runs smoothly, stays running for prolonged periods of time, and doesn't die in the middle of the road any more. I'm not TOUCHING it again unless I have to! Oh, BTW, I get more like 4 MPG at the sand dunes. A whole tank of gas in 75-90 miles of driving.

Edit by 88pathoffroad: Sorry, had to take the link down, AC removed it so it's not there for anyone anymore. Just thought I'd toss this up for everyone to read, just in case. The subject DOES come up a lot.

Feh. I get 10 MPG. Tanks holds 22 gallons, supposedly. So I get about 200 miles or so before it goes completely empty. On another note, I am SO TIRED of the wimpy-a$$ gas guzzler V6 in mine...

Sure. Let me know which one.

Yeah. You can get those locally at most auto parts stores, as far as I've seen. I have a sneaking suspicion that differently colored LED's behind my instrument cluster won't do much, cause all the lines and numerals are already in orange.

This is a copy of a PM I recieved from someone on the AC BBS. Just thought I'd post the info here, as it applies to everyone, pretty much. "Well, Chris... That's a two-edged sword you're looking at there with the cheap rear lift and no front lift. On one hand, if you do just stick the rear springs in and lift that end but leave the front alone, you'll be OK on the steering bit, but your Pathfinder will look really funny. On the other hand, If you want it to look good and ALSO be more trail worthy, you'll really need to crank up the torsion bars. You don't have to max them out, just push 'em up till they come close to matching the rear lift if you go with that in the end. A set of aftermarket upper a-arms is a good idea. The steering problems are from running bigger tires and offroading your Nissan. If you mostly drive it on the road, I would say that you would be just fine cranking up the t-bars, as long as you get it aligned afterwards. If you offroad the piss out of it, you should EXPECT to have to replace parts. It's like they say, "You play, you pay." Keep in mind here, the Nissan designers didn't envision your Pathfinder running through mud bogs, over rocks, or over tree stumps...they simply built it to go off the pavement and do a good job on moderately level surfaces with minimal wheelspin. It all depends on where you go and what you do with your Nissan. If you drive it like a goofball, expect it to die pretty quickly. If you drive it well and take things easy, it should last a while. Hope this helps.

You're all aware that the front CV axles only spin when the transfer case is in 4WD, right? Therefore, you will never hear any kind of "clunking" noise from a CV axle when turning in a Pathfinder in 2WD... Also, if the CV boot is ripped and you just need to keep stuff out of the joint, taping it up or covering it with something will work until you can replace the boot or whole axle.

I think a set of upper a-arms by themselves and new torsion bars along with a set of JGC springs would be the best/most economical route to lifting your Pathfinder about 3". And yes, get an alignment afterwards.

Email it to me. The address is in my profile.

How about 450 lbs of tools and equipment? Right before a 700 mile trip across two states...

If anyone here needs a picture hosted for their BBS signature or for any other reason, I will host it for you and send you the link for it upon request FOR FREE. I can also offer image resizing, cropping, and editing so that anyone without access to photoediting programs can have a decently sized and arranged picture for your signature or for demo purposes. Either post here or PM me. Also, please keep the size of your signature pics down to the bare minimum. They should be around 15-30 kb in size, and yes, it is possible to have a small filesize picture that still looks good. Mine is 13 kb. How's that look? I'm not trying to nag, just trying to keep things rolling along smoothly here without getting bogged down by too much data. If one page loads with the same person's oversize picture posted three or four times, the time it takes to load each page goes up. Dial-up users will definitely appreciate this as well. Thanks!