88pathoffroad

Yep. They're the ones that go into the 93-95 front bumper.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33709 Just thought I'd post this and see if it helps anyone. These lights are brand new in box for $21.50 so far...

Yes, it is.

Nah, it takes a lot of swapping back and forth to get it to work(bearings, ring gear, correct me if I'm wrong Piscator), but apparently it works when you get it perfected! Nobody took pics of the install?? For shame!

Back end right beside the hatch. Accessible from the glass or the opened rear hatch.

Upon further examination, the additional Grade 8 bolts aren't for the body mounts themselves, but for something else. Hmmmmmmm.

I'm not saying you are, Mike. That's a very good point, though. Wierdness...if the standard bolts are good enough for 6 out of 10 of the body mounts, why would you need 4 of them to be Grade 8 bolts? Mine is using all the replacement bolts that came with the kit and I really don't think I'll ever have any kind of problem with them. *goes and looks on the AC BBS*

Nah, I abuse them terribly. 1200+watts of stereo power, lighting wattages...hmm...110x2/55x2/55x2/85x1/running lights wattage/ECU, engine electrical, etc all add up to a LOT more than the stock alternator can put out. That and cheap rebuilt alternators aren't the best place to start. Now, where did I put the reciept for that last alternator... BigMike: 1993-1997, like I said above. Skrillaguerilla: Sounds like your alternator either went out on you or one of your battery terminals is loose or has a dirty connection. The lights might work, but are they at full power or are they dim? I'd look into getting a better alternator that is more of a stock alternator rather than simply rebuilding your original one...it'd cost the same but you'd still only have 60 amps. *shrug* Hence the idea of swapping in the higher output alternator in the first place...

If you're adding 3" blocks between the body and frame, then they would HAVE to be longer, wouldn't they?

Hey man. I worked at Jiffy Lube for a while. At least you know SOME people at JL know what they're doing. I was the only one the manager trusted to do tranny pan drop services and flushes.

Removing the CL is pretty straightforward, actually. Remove skidplate, pull castle nut cotter pins, remove castle nuts, apply BJ puller to joints on CL and tie rod ends. Install new CL in reverse order using the proper amount of torque for each joint (sorry, I don't have torque specs on hand), then install new cotter pins. A balljoint puller is pretty much required. If you try it with a pickle fork you'll regret it, frustrate yourself, waste time and the rubber boots on the tie rods will end up ripped all to hell.

Ow, man....POR-15 that @!*%e. Better to fix it now than to wait and have someone fall through the floor later. I've heard that the Monroes ride just like stockers. Soft and cushiony. Heh. Totally unlike Rancho RS5000's.

I guess the deal is that the longer bolts are really hard to find. AC just happened to source a place that can provide the bolts, so they got the jump on everybody.

I had a set of BFG A/T 31x10.50's when I bought my Pathy. They wore out in about a year with my somewhat "Driving Miss Daisy" approach to driving, but otherwise I had no complaints. They actually surprised me more often than not. They worked great in sand, mud, dirt and rocks, and also on the street. I didn't get to test them in the snow, but hey, four out of five ain't bad.

Pep Boys sucks. Period. They opened a huge store here and it closed less than a year later due to poor service, high prices, and terrible selection. The old Pep Boys store is now a Mexican Supermarketado. Your timing belt isn't due for another 30,000 miles if I'm not mistaken. I'd leave it be for now and just get replacement plugs, cap/rotor, wires and filters. It should keep running just fine that way. The dealership is the best place to go for a t-belt change unless you can do it yourself.

What, for stock replacements? Junkyard. Just make sure you get them off another Pathfinder and not a HB pickup, the rear pickup flares are different. I see those things on sale on Ebay all the time. Bushwacker sells two different kinds also. I dunno about the quality of the Ebay flares, but the Bushwacker flares are nice.

Read the tacked topic at the top of the Garage section about reading the ECU error codes. The search function works on here, too.

Hrrrr. Never had to get in there, personally. Sorry.

Swaybar bushings are easy. Simply unbolt and replace. Rear axle control arm bushings are hard, so are upper control arm bushings. Generally requires a press to remove the old ones, or burning them out with a torch.

Monroe Sensatracs are good stock replacements, AFAIK. Tenneco makes them, same company that makes Rancho shocks. Just unplug the stock adjustable shock wiring and install the new shocks. Or, you could go with replacement adjustable shocks from Nissan, I hear they're not that expensive from the dealer(stealer)...wonder of wonders... Springs won't "blow out", but they do tend to sag down after a long time and become more flexible, rather than supporting the weight of the rear of the vehicle properly. Body cracks, eh? Are you sure it's not simply cracks in the undercoating? Or are the cracks really big and visible? That's a new one on me.

Yeah...maybe 1987-1989 SE's got shoulder belts, mine is an XE. Fairly spartan...no power windows or locks, no power rear window popper, no remote anything, no tire carrier, no fender flares until I added them... But what I DO have still works just fine. Everything. I can't think of one thing on my Pathy that doesn't still work just fine.

Also, take into consideration that most of the heat under the hood comes from the exhaust manifolds and the radiator, which are located next to the framerails and in the front center, respectively. The stock airbox really isn't in that bad of a spot to begin with. The only time a cone filter would be pulling hot air would be at idle or at low speeds. When the vehicle is in motion, air shoots right over the top of the headlight on the driver's side and goes right through the stock airbox location.

Good call, good call.

Find a 3.3 instead and swap all your 3.0 parts and accessories onto the 3.3 block.

You can't use HEI style cap ends on a Pathy, totally wrong style. I would assume that the socket style would be just straight booted cap ends, and the 90 degree ones would be just like stock ends. I'd say the 90 degree distributor end wires with straight plug ends would work allright.