88pathoffroad

I measured eight different ways on three different UCA's and they all came out the same, as far as my tape measure is concerned. I measured overall arm length, spindle length, spindle bolt location and spacing, UCA bushing width, balljoint width and length, overall UCA height, bumpstop pad location, and everything else I could think of. They all matched. I measured a 97 HB, a 95 Pathy and an 89 Pathy. All 4WD, all with good UCA's(not visibly wrecked prior to measurement). The angle at the end of the UCA for the BJ may be a skosh different, but not that I could tell just by eyeballing it. Looked the same to me.

Man, if they spend 5 hours taking off and putting on a tow hitch(even with wiring), they're REAL slow movers. Heh.

That would be cool if you never took it offroad into situations where it could suck water into the intake or get coated with dirt and mud.

Oh oh, that was it! Sorry, my bad. Mercury Villager it is. darn cross-vehicle manufacturerisms.

Also known as a Ford Windstar minivan. 1993-1997 are the years you should look for. Oh, and Steve...I have five more of those deep-cycle batteries in my garage, courtesy of Comcast's mismanaged recycling program. I fished them out of a dumpster after they were replaced with newer batteries. These were never used, simply float-charged for two years then tossed. Imagine that. No wonder the cable TV rates keep going up, eh?

Woo! Extra liftage! Nice! Now, only a little bit more and you can fit 33's under there... On another note: darn you! You've got the ceiling mounted rear seat shoulder belts in your model! We didn't get those at all over here.

Hey! Andrew, you're gonna get it... I'm coming over to Brian's on Saturday for the body lift party. Watch your back! *swatswat*

I was kiddin', you know...

Stock wires are 7mm, I believe. My Taylor wires came with straight boots for the plug ends. The distributor ends are all 90's. Going up 1 or 1.5mm in wire size doesn't matter one bit. Same routing, same locations, same access.

Maybe you should just post your question in your native language and see if anyone knows how to answer, cause I can't really make heads or tails out of what you want to know. You're saying that your doors don't lock automatically, right? Not close by themselves, cause that'd be a nice trick to see...hehe.

Your question mark key must not work, eh? Remove the leather shifter boot from your floor along with the console. Remove the rubber shifter boot from the floor. Remove whatever holds in the shifter. pour a predetermined amount of gear oil into the resulting hole. Reassemble and drive. It's not that hard to figure out. -study-

There isn't any real info available on either topic. An engine swap and front axle swap like you want are completely custom, one-off jobs. Every person that has done it has gone about it a different way. It's very expensive, it requires lots of cutting and welding, the ability to have the vehicle down and off the street/trail until it's finished, and knowledge of drivetrain manipulation/body clearancing/fabrication.

It goes back on just fine. Lots of clearance.

I've gone through five alternators in less than five years now, with the latest alternator failure leaving me stranded in the middle of the sand dunes with no help around but the occasional passerby. I feel your pain, brother! I'm in great need of a better alternator too! The stock Pathfinder alternator is a 60 amp unit if I'm not mistaken. I know mine is. A few companies have produced and sold bracket kits allowing you to bolt a GM/Delco C130 alternator to your Nissan with wiring upgrades. It has also been discovered that a 240SX alternator from 1993-up is a 90 amp unit and will swap into your Pathfinder if you put the Pathfinder pulley on the 240SX unit first. The Nissan Quest alternator is a 110 amp unit, requires a pulley swap as well, fits almost perfectly where the stock Pathy alternator was(some grinding on the housing is required for block clearance), and retains all the stock wiring receptacles, etc. I've heard from several other people that their Quest alternator actually is underrated and put out more like 135 amps! What I'm going to do is: Get a junkyard Quest alternator, take it to a alternator shop and have it tested to make sure it's running properly and for output amperage, then modify it to fit into my Pathfinder. Double your stock amperage output for less than the cost of a stock replacement? I think so! I'm also installing a deep-cycle backup battery in the back of my Pathy for the rock lights, stereo, etc. One battery for 500+ watts of lighting and a 1000W stereo probably isn't QUITE enough. On the one-wire idea: the alternators are generally in the same price range, could very possibly (as you stated) cause voltage spikes on startup or on revving, I don't really know about pulley fitment or swappability, and the case is built differently so you'd need a whole new bracket setup to bolt it onto your VG30. On the other hand, they're more readily available (most parts stores have them on hand right away) and generally have more aftermarket support(replacement parts, rewound stators, etc). So. It's up to you as to what you want to do. Let us know what other ideas you have on this subject.

Geolandars are really cool. I like 'em. I also like the ProComp M/T's and their A/T's. They have a good warranty, AFAIK. On the other hand, I heartily reccommend Super Swampers for all your Pathfinder driving needs!

Also make sure your gas cap is tight. *nodnod*

You could get a small cooler out of a Ford Exploder at a junkyard for about $5 or $10. I have two HD ones from an Exploder in my Pathy for tranny cooling duty.

Inside the wall on the back, I think. I could be wrong.

It would be easy to install a small cooler inline with the reservoir hoses and place the cooler in front of the radiator. Simply buy a lot of new braided hose and some hose clamps, a cooler and spend a few hours doing it. Couldn't hurt. I know of one other person that has one on his Nissan, and he seemed happy with it.

About $350 a set, with the crossover pipe. They're ceramic coated, I think.

Actually, you can get more like 2.5-3" out of the stock front, but it'll be riding on the bumpstops and you'll have no downward suspension travel in the front. It will need an alignment afterwards, for sure.

My man, this topic has been beat to DEATH on hundreds of websites and boards. Yes, it's a factory defect type thing, and no, it's not cheap to fix. It'd be cheaper to buy some Thorley headers and have them installed with a whole new exhaust system than to replace the stock ones, actually.

Yes, if the t-bars are adjusted properly. They may need to be reindexed though, due to age.

Those idler arm bolts will take more torque than your arm can make, so just crank 'em on down nice and tight, but don't overdo it of course.

I'll measure tomorrow when I go to the junkyard and find out for sure.