88pathoffroad

It'd be cheaper and just as effective to have an exhaust shop build a similar cat-back for you, but hey, it's your money to throw away. *shrug* I know the Borla pipes are aluminized or whatever, but it's not really going to matter in a few years anyway.

I hope you didn't run the new wire UNDER the boot so it's rubbing against the sharp sheetmetal edge of the firewall...it should go through the rubber to keep it isolated from possibly grounding out. Yes, the relay should be fused. I've seen relays lock open after a short occurs and that would probably cause an underhood fire. A fuse is your only course of protection in that case. I've always just run the switch's power source to an ignition-on wire in the fuse compartment. Nobody cares if you can turn on your fog lights with the headlights or parking lights off around here. I've never even heard of someone getting in trouble for that.

Either way will work. Disconnecting the battery for a short time will ALSO erase the ECU memory.

Smittybilt still makes the double-tube bumpers for other vehicles, just not Pathfinders. They run about $150 each.

Jim's wife, I think. I could be wrong.

Show-off!

Pop the lens off and remove the bulb.

That's why I want to get all the exact specs for O2 sensors and what they're supposed to read between wires for testing purposes. Then I can figure out what other cheap alternative I can use that will work exactly the same.

Once again, the CV'S DO NOT SPIN when you drive around in 2WD unless the hubs are not functioning properly. I'd check the hubs, wheel bearings and brakes in that order.

Smittybilt used to make those for Pathfinders. I think they quit making them.

I'd guess rear hatch switch first. Turn up the bass, get out, shut the door and watch from the rear to see when the light comes on. Push on the hatch and see if it quits doing it.

You're right, XerOne. The OD should normally be left on for best gas mileage.

I can probably get you one of those within the next few days. I'll letcha know.

It's a bushing or loose part. Have you gotten under there yet and had someone bounce on the back bumper while you watch? $5 says it's either a swaybar endlink or shock bushing.

Those things'll leak even when they're new. They're not meant to be completely airtight, just to keep dirt out of the joint. Just grease it a bit more and wipe off the excess.

You shouldn't need the sleeves, those are for different vehicle applications. The 5116's have the exact same bushings and eyehole sizes as the stock 5118's.

Buh, buh, buh....but I would have if Statikuz hadn't said it first! *cries*

Ditto. That or just go in with no muffler, tell them you'd like a new high-flow muffler installed along with everything from the cat back. Shouldn't run more than the cost of replacement pipes with all the flanges, gaskets and hangers, and it'll give you more power as well.

Well, that's what the owner's manual says in it. I bet if you ran it out of gas and then filled it back up it would take 21 gallons.

Sweet, that's really nice of you. Thanks!

It's not just the fluids...it's also the linkages, slave and master cylinder walls/seals, bearings, pivot points...everything shrinks a little when it cools down a significant amount. Add everything shrinking a little together and you end up with one tightly knit set of moving parts until they warm up.

I just leave 'em off. Squishy red shock boots under the vehicle look silly anyway.

No idea. That's an AUS company, looks legit but I don't really like how they advertise a product without showing any pictures of it. Those dyno graphs are kinda wierd, too. Torque and HP numbers should cross at 5250 RPM's, but that's not a regular US numbered graph, so I dunno. Looks like APS knows their LT1/LS1 twinturbo apps, at the very least. Wowie. 600+ HP from a new GTO TT system running at 9 psi. o.o

Harbor Freight. I recently scored a guage cluster on Ebay that has the stock white face guages, voltmeter and dual tripmeters! Woo-hoo! Quite the upgrade from the old orange guages with only idiot lights.

Good idea. I drilled the bushings a few times, then just set the propane torch on it's side on the ground aimed at the bushings and let 'er burn until the rubber squooged out by itself. Heh.