XSrcing

Time to spill the beans. Why is there a 1/2" hole in your roof?

Does the compressor clutch not engage or does the a/c just not get cold? There is a very good chance that all the r12 has leaked out of the system by now. A/C systems did not come from the factory with green tracer dye in them, so your system has been evacuated and recharged at least once and had the dye added. The dye is used to help pinpoint leaks in the system. If you want to pull everything out, first you need to go to any shop that performs a/c service and have them evacuate the system and pull a vacuum. Don't let them recharge it. Once that is done you can remove everything safely, but there will be a small amount of oil that seeps out. It's not harmful so just wipe it up with a rag.

Wow. I can't imagine the parts bill they have racked up on that thing.

This exact same thing just happened to me. I went on a 3 hour drive to Seattle and back with fairly warm weather, the coolant temps were normal, but underhood temps were high (especially at the back near the clutch line). Then it got down in to the teens and I let the truck sit for a while. When I get it the first time, everything is normal, but onces the truck warms up BAM there is a bubble in there. I completely flushed the system with new fluid and it is fine now. My only theory is that the long trip had caused the really, really old fluid (which is hydroscopic) to somewhat seperate: the brake fluid and the water it had absorbed had separated. Then when the temp drop the water froze. After driving, the water unfroze and evaporated causing an air bubble that would occur every time you got the engine warm. All the air bubbles were between the master cylinder and the damper. Sounds a little far fetched, but it is the only theory my friends and I could come up with. So after completely flushing my system of every trace of old fluid (I ran two bottles of fluid through the system) I have no problems anymore.

They don't seem to or they just don't? Their website states in the description "These a-arms are designed to allow for correct ball joint angle and additional wheel travel". edit: this is in regard to the 4x4 parts UCA's.

Replace your thermostat. When filling the radiator, start the engine and let it run while filling it. It will burp several times and over flow a couple. after it stops burping for a little bit, replace the cap and let the car continue to run. Once it is fully up to temp for a while, shut it off, let it cool off completely, and do it again.

There are a lot of factors that can cause a pull. Everything from tweaked suspension pieces, over worn tires, slipped belts in the tires, to improper procedures. The "cycling" of the suspension is a little drastic. I've done hundreds upon hundreds of them and have never had to drive the car as described to get it to settle. A few well weighted jounces on slip plates will settle the suspension properly, if the slip plates are maintained Plus, most alignment machines will not allow you to drive the car while aligning it because you have sensors mounted to the wheels, which are then calibrated to the wheel run-out.

My friend has these on his hardbody. He had all 4 siped and has no traction issues in snow (we've got 8 inches on Thanksgiving).

Your description is vague, but I can only think it is the a/c condenser.

No price, "as seen on TV", gimmicky website. I wouldn't touch that with a ten foot pole.

Like what has been said above, it is just condensation mixing with your oil. You need to get the engine up to temp and keep it there long enough to evaporate all the condensation that builds up on short trips.

Faulty injector 0-rings WILL NOT introduce fuel in to your oil. You will either have a vacuum leak or fuel will leak on to your intake manifold. There is NO path between the injectors to the oil pan other than through your piston rings. Do a compression test and I bet you will find one or two cylinders very low with ring blow-by.

Snorkels are pretty cool http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbQohYlnILg&feature=player_embedded

Sway bar = stabilizer bar

So that is the purpose of the cover on my distributor. Never realized it was actually a splash shield.

They make them for Honda Civics, as well. So it's not some super fantastical part.

Many of the cars I posted in THIS thread run 2 or 3 disc clutches (the Ford had a 4 disc). Many companies make them including Exedy, who makes the factory Nissan clutches.

Not in car and light truck applications. The steel plates between the friction plates is splined to the transmission input shaft and is no thicker that the steel plate that the friction surfaces are riveted to. It adds very little to the rotating weight of the engine.

This is the first thing I thought of. If you have an amp meter, hook it up to the positive side of the battery in series WITH THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION AND THE ENGINE OFF (or else you will just start blowing through fuses in the amp meter). The current draw at this stat should be extremely low - around .1 amp max. If it is higher than that, start pulling fuses one at a time and checking the meter readings. Once you pull the fuse of the faulty system the amp reading will drop and you will know where to start digging. Oh, and also make sure none of the interior lights are on when you are checking the meter readings.

The biggest factor is reducing brake fade is finding the right brake pad. The next is getting as much material in the brake rotor to dissipate any generated heat. Slotting and cross-drilling rotors reduce mass. Slotted and C-drilled rotors were created for motorsports applications where the brakes received sudden, and extreme applications that would cause pad-gassing temps in a split second, and where there were only mere moments too cool between applications. On the street, they are merely for looks.

Honestly, it will be a waste of money for your truck unless you are doing some seriously heavy hauling or off road racing. Slotted rotors also reduce pad life. I had some Vato-zone $27 rotors cryo treated and put them on my old Integra track car. They performed just as good as the Powerslot rotors I replaced, and lasted a lot longer.

It is mentioned everywhere, but when I search for it I get nothing but Poho 9 results and the occasional person linking to grassroots.com. Well, grassroots.com is some corporate communications website so I am lost. Googling got me nowhere either since all I got were the same grassroots.com links and pictures of Nissans parked on rocks.

My birthday is the 23rd of this month. Just sayin'

That's why I specified I used on on the race course. It was subject to pretty f'ing extreme heat and torture but remained completely streetable and reliable through 1000's of miles or abuse.

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Nissan/Pathfinder/1992/Single I ran a stage 2 in my 170 whp Integra that saw a lot of road coarse use. And a Stage 2+ in my highway RX7. Absolutely loved the way they felt, engaged, and held.