XSrcing

Nunya forgot duct-tape.

Spice? Are you from Arrakis?

That's usually what people say until it is a family member that is making the bad choices.

Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.

Well Mr. Jim, I have never dealt with a big fund raiser but IF I find a way to get a little money for your cause I will gladly donate it.

I'm pretty sure I attacked that fortress in Call of Duty: Black Ops. And I'm jealous!

HAWTALTA

Your fan is working fine. When the fan clutch goes bad it will usually stop engaging and your engine will over heat in hot weather.

Unless it's freezing outside, a cold fan should spin effortlessly. Think about it, you don't want your fan pulling air through the radiator when the engine is cold, and hardly moving when air needs to be cooling the radiator. But, since they use a viscous coupling, there will always bee some drag regardless of clutch temperature.

The fan clutch should almost freewheel when the engine is cold. When the engine gets warm it starts to lock up. Edit: when the air passing through the radiator starts to warm up, it starts locking up.

This post is worthy of a permanent sticky.

Yup, gotta get a machinists straight edge and some feeler gauges.

I couldn't make up my mind for the life of me, so I voted for Packie.

Clutch chatter is the jerky engagement you are feeling. It usually happens when you replace a clutch and don't resurface the flywheel. It isn't going to hurt anything and will eventually stop. The damper keeps slight pressure against the clutch fork to stop it from possibly rattling. Though I'm sure a faulty damper can work in complete opposite when broken and absorb any pressure you try to apply. After a thorough bleeding my clutch is working like a champ and it's back below freezing here.

Darwin is laughing in his grave.

I don't know about the temps you are reading, but when you opened that bolt, you released all the pressure in the cooling system. That is why when you removed the radiator cap there was no hissing noise.

When they decided to not put the VQ in it in the first place there was no need to design the frame to fit it. They didn't design the car, then figure out which engine would fit.

Build cost. The VQ engine costs a heap more money to build (especially during design phase) than the VG engines and would have raised the cost out of the target demographics price range.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Real men make it in toilets. Well, at least real men in prison do. Or you can take the easy way out: http://www.thinkgeek.com/caffeine/wacky-edibles/e683/

Time to spill the beans. Why is there a 1/2" hole in your roof?

Does the compressor clutch not engage or does the a/c just not get cold? There is a very good chance that all the r12 has leaked out of the system by now. A/C systems did not come from the factory with green tracer dye in them, so your system has been evacuated and recharged at least once and had the dye added. The dye is used to help pinpoint leaks in the system. If you want to pull everything out, first you need to go to any shop that performs a/c service and have them evacuate the system and pull a vacuum. Don't let them recharge it. Once that is done you can remove everything safely, but there will be a small amount of oil that seeps out. It's not harmful so just wipe it up with a rag.

Wow. I can't imagine the parts bill they have racked up on that thing.

This exact same thing just happened to me. I went on a 3 hour drive to Seattle and back with fairly warm weather, the coolant temps were normal, but underhood temps were high (especially at the back near the clutch line). Then it got down in to the teens and I let the truck sit for a while. When I get it the first time, everything is normal, but onces the truck warms up BAM there is a bubble in there. I completely flushed the system with new fluid and it is fine now. My only theory is that the long trip had caused the really, really old fluid (which is hydroscopic) to somewhat seperate: the brake fluid and the water it had absorbed had separated. Then when the temp drop the water froze. After driving, the water unfroze and evaporated causing an air bubble that would occur every time you got the engine warm. All the air bubbles were between the master cylinder and the damper. Sounds a little far fetched, but it is the only theory my friends and I could come up with. So after completely flushing my system of every trace of old fluid (I ran two bottles of fluid through the system) I have no problems anymore.

They don't seem to or they just don't? Their website states in the description "These a-arms are designed to allow for correct ball joint angle and additional wheel travel". edit: this is in regard to the 4x4 parts UCA's.