XSrcing

If you don't shift like you are in a drag race and change the fluid every couple of years, you should never have to rebuild the manual transmission.

I'd give myself a GT-R an make my minions run the company.

Or Americans can remember what they were taught in elementary school. 1 kg is approx. 2.2 lbs.

Try to keep the hose from the block to the can from rising very far, a couple inches at most. And it is advisable to go with a slightly larger hose. This will keep it working as efficiently as possible.

You need to reset the ECU and then complete a full drive cycle for the light to stay off. The sensor could be working fine, but the ECU just knows that last time it performed a system check it wasn't working fine. The joys of OBD2 cars.

The VIN plate only lists the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. Which is the total weight the vehicle was designed to carry (includes weight of the truck, passengers and cargo). It's 5150 lbs for my '92. I have no idea what the empty curb weight is.

Honestly, the only tip I can give you is try talking nice to it. It's worked for me. And I'm not joking.

He was just trying to up-sell you a set of wheels instead of just tires. This is one reason I like Discount Tire. When I worked there, the sales guys were the seniors on the tire changing floor on a rotating schedule. They did not get commission and only recommended what they believed was best for you.

I don't think spacers and washers are hardened at all. They are supposed to be flexible and absorb any shock. Hardening them will only increase their brittleness.

You got a busted switch.

I've dealt with some race cars that use archaic spacers for alignments. We would align them, torque the bolts, then wrap the spacers with duct tape and mechanics wire. They never came out unless you wanted them to.

IT sounds like you have an intermittent short or ground in one of your injectors causing it to either stay closed or get stuck open. Both of these will cause your oxygen sensor to read way out of it's normal range causing the ECU to think there is a fault with it. I couldn't tell you if it was getting stuck open or closed without knowing the O2 sensor voltage while it is happening, though. If the voltage is high (.9-1 volt) then an injector is stuck open. If the voltage is low (0 volts) then an injector is stuck closed.

Well, something was most likely tweaked, but unless you bust out a ruler and straight edge you aren't going to know what it is. Get an alignment and you should be ok.

Oops. Fixed.

I would check the switch first. A short would bypass the switch and you would have no control over the wiper. Fixed.

I would add more bolts to the pinch weld or just weld it all along it. If you do the latter, any pressure on it will be distributed to the frame rail and the entire pinch weld. That would be really effing strong.

Nunya forgot duct-tape.

Your fan is working fine. When the fan clutch goes bad it will usually stop engaging and your engine will over heat in hot weather.

Unless it's freezing outside, a cold fan should spin effortlessly. Think about it, you don't want your fan pulling air through the radiator when the engine is cold, and hardly moving when air needs to be cooling the radiator. But, since they use a viscous coupling, there will always bee some drag regardless of clutch temperature.

The fan clutch should almost freewheel when the engine is cold. When the engine gets warm it starts to lock up. Edit: when the air passing through the radiator starts to warm up, it starts locking up.

This post is worthy of a permanent sticky.

Yup, gotta get a machinists straight edge and some feeler gauges.

Clutch chatter is the jerky engagement you are feeling. It usually happens when you replace a clutch and don't resurface the flywheel. It isn't going to hurt anything and will eventually stop. The damper keeps slight pressure against the clutch fork to stop it from possibly rattling. Though I'm sure a faulty damper can work in complete opposite when broken and absorb any pressure you try to apply. After a thorough bleeding my clutch is working like a champ and it's back below freezing here.

I don't know about the temps you are reading, but when you opened that bolt, you released all the pressure in the cooling system. That is why when you removed the radiator cap there was no hissing noise.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!